The central Vietnamese city of Hue has a long and storied history in the annals of Vietnam’s rich culture and tradition. From 1802 to 1945, under the powerful Nguyen Dynasty, it was Vietnam’s capital, and for centuries before that it was the country’s Imperial City.

As a result, Hue is a treasure trove of ancient structures, royal tombs, and crumbling palaces. Sadly, the majority of Hue’s architecture was bombed into oblivion during the French and American wars - particularly during the 1968 Tet Offensive and its aftermath - but there’s still more than enough to warrant its UNESCO-World-Heritage status.

At the heart of Hue lies the Citadel and Imperial City, the partially ruined remains of what was once a wonder of regal Asia. A dozen imperial tombs lie scattered along Hue’s river, looking much as they did centuries ago, and pagodas such as Thien Mu are as striking as they come.

The modern face of Hue is best represented by the captivating life that goes on along the Perfume River. Boats of all kind ply the waters, ferrying tourists or engaged in trade. It’s a fascinating scene.

The town itself blends the old and the new with ease. Low-rise colonial buildings house local residents, interesting shops and colourful outdoor cafés. A stroll along the illuminated streets at night reveals a festive scene where eating and drinking is the priority. This is a town where the street vendors cook just as well as the restaurants. If you have an interest in military history, the DMZ area around Hue is loaded with infamous war sites and underground tunnels.

Despite the steady stream of tourists who visit Hue, the town still suffers from a lack of quality accommodation. Unremarkable mid-range hotels and backpacker hostels make up the bulk of lodging, so spend some time researching for a hotel that appeals to you. Most of the better hotels are clustered around Pham Ngu Lao Street, but there is a handful of quaint boutique inns on the outskirts. Book online in advance for great discounts.

Hue’s airport only handles a few of daily domestic flights from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, so the train is often a more convenient and enjoyable option. Coaches can be hit or miss, and renting a car is not a recommended option due to the chaotic nature of driving in Vietnam.

Hue is infamous for its lousy weather, so come prepared for lots of rain. The Truong Son Mountains south of Hue block coastal moisture, resulting in misty or drizzly conditions most of the time. The rains typically begin in September and grow steadily worse towards the end of the year. January through March is perhaps best avoided for travel since most of Hue’s attractions are outdoors. That being said, the misty conditions add a special ambiance to the old pagodas.

Temperatures are moderate throughout the year, with relatively cool winters and warm dry summers. From January onwards the mercury begins its steady climb, reaching well over 30C from June through August. Summer thunderstorms are regular features, but usually brief and refreshing. The best time for a visit is around late March and April, when the rains are abating but it’s not overwhelmingly hot.