 Mae Hong Son is the small provincial capital of the province of the same name, located high up in the northwest of Thailand, with Myanmar close by to the north and west. The town is surrounded by misty mountains and is characterised by its cool climate, laid-back feel and Thai and Shan (Thai Yai) peoples, as well as Lisu, Lahu, Hmong, and Karen hill tribe inhabitants.
 The ‘City of the Three Mists’ is a year-round destination yet is best visited in the dry season from December to March, when the trekking options are better. Many people come for the elephant trekking and walking as well as the many beautiful national parks, while the town itself deserves a few days exploration with its fascinating temples and picturesque lake lying just off-centre of town.
 The main attraction within the city of Mae Hong Son is the hilltop Wat Phra That Doi Kong Mu which overlooks the town and features some striking Burmese-style temple buildings, numerous Buddha statues and saffron-robed monks. The best thing about the wat however is its fine views over the town and mountains, which are best seen during sunrise and sunset. Several other temples in town are also well worth visiting and include some interesting artefacts, such as Wat Kam with its shady setting and ancient scriptures of the local Thai Yai people.
 Nong Chongkam Lake, which lies near the centre of town, is a focal point of Mae Hong Son. Surrounded by some well-located budget hotels, restaurants, and impressive temple architecture, it is perfect for strolling. Guesthouses in this region of town are also close to the famous Morning Market and some of the city’s best restaurants.
 Another highly visited feature of Mae Hong Son is the intriguing long-necked Paduang women who live to the southwest of town in a river bank community accessible by boat only. There are also some easy to reach hot springs just to the south of town and a massive cave system between Mae Hong Son and Pai in the sleepy town of Soppong.
 Accommodation ranges from budget places right in the centre of town to eco-friendly habitats and mid-range resorts complete with swimming pools and satellite TVs. Mae Hong Son receives many tour groups from Chiang Mai, meaning reasonably-priced semi-luxury options are plentiful. There are several well-positioned accommodations surrounding the lake in the centre of town, while pretty resorts lie to the south of Mae Hong Son beyond the town’s multi-storey hotels, with some featuring quiet bungalows and welcome swimming pools.
 Due to its remote setting, the best way to get to Mae Hong Son is by plane, and flights come in mainly from Chiang Mai as well as directly from Bangkok with PB Air. The small airport is located in the heart of town within walking distance of hotels, shops, restaurants and the market, making arriving by air convenient. Those who fly, however, will miss the spectacular scenery on the main road route from Chiang Mai which consists of hundreds of hairpin bends and attractive viewpoints. Buses arrive throughout the day from Chiang Mai and Pai, but driving yourself is always an option.
History
 Mae Hong Son has a hazy history as to exactly when the settlement was first established, although it was settled before the arrival of Lord Kaeo, the date of which is open to speculation. The original inhabitants didn’t leave much behind, however, but are thought to have belonged to the Lua or Lawa tribes.
Of what does remain, though, includes gravesites and ancient housing found near the present day Mae Hong Son Municipal Hall. War and malaria would probably have lead to an eventual depopulation of these early settlers who may have retreated to the hills for safety.
 Mae Hong Son was merged with Yuam, Pai and Mandala in 1910 by royal decree, and Mae Hong Son became the administrative capital, with Phraya Sonsurarat becoming the first governor of the Province. Governance was subsequently reneged in 1933 but later reinstated under the Constitution of the Kingdom of Thailand.
Mae Hong Son province itself is also linked to the Golden Triangle region of northern Thailand and featured prominently in the Japanese occupation of Thailand. Although most Japanese forces were positioned in Kanchanaburi, where prisoners of war helped construct the ‘Death Railway’, large camps were also set up near Namron hot springs and Ban Napakha in Mae Hong Son.
Using Thai labour the Japanese built a road from Mae Taeng, to the north of Chiang Mai, to Pai and then to Mae Hong Son. Remains of their vehicles can be seen just before entry to the town off Highway 1095. The present day route follows much of the original, 180-mile long track.
 The Thai Yai Wat Phakam in Mae Hong Son was a field hospital from 1942 to 1945 and is the focus of much activity each year when relatives of those who perished during WWII descend on the wat to pay homage. More than 500 WWII soldiers and prisoners of war were buried in Mae Hong Son.
The Lod cave in Pang Mapha district, just off Highway 1095, reveals much historical activity of the area and was discovered by the archaeologist Chester Gorman in 1968. Tools, stones, and fossils have been discovered by digs that put the cave at around 9,000 years old.
 Twelve teakwood coffins that were discovered here are thought to be nearly as old as the great pyramids of Giza at around 4,000 years old. Dozens of other caves in the region may also contain similar coffins, and it is thought that humans may have occupied them up until the end of the Iron Age.
Tourists have only been coming to Mae Hong Son in significant numbers since the 1970s and ‘80s after the fantastic trekking opportunity of the land was realised. However, Mae Hong Son doesn’t suffer from the tourist hordes of nearby Pai and Chiang Mai, meaning it is the perfect destination for a quiet break.
Weather
 Mae Hong Son is blisteringly hot and dry from March to July; wet and humid from July to October and cool and pleasant from November to March. The best time to visit Mae Hong Son is between December and early March – the cool season – when nights are cool and everything is green. Although daytime temperatures are still fairly hot in the cool season, nights are decidedly chilly, with the mercury often creeping below 10°C.
Anytime between April and November can be hit and miss regards the weather in Mae Hong Son. April to July is hot, followed by a cool season in November when the rains arrive. Slash and burn in the hills around Mae Hong Son takes place around March/April, during the dry season, which can cause pollution. Visitors with respiratory problems may want to avoid visiting during this time.
Mae Hong Son doesn’t see as much precipitation as other parts of Thailand during the rainy season, traditionally from July to October. The hilly town sees bursts of torrential downpours as opposed to the weeks on end of rain that much of the south of Thailand sees.
|