I arrived at Puerto Vallarta International Airport with visions of a relaxing, romantic holiday break and the airport didn’t disappoint, at first. A lovely lady greeted my husband and I with a bright, welcoming smile and bottled water. She offered to arrange our transportation and then mentioned that we would make a stop at a time-share property that she “just knew we would love”.

As soon as she went into her sales pitch, we knew we’d been had! We firmly let her know that while we were grateful for her hospitality, we were not interested. Time-shares are not really our bag - we never want to be limited in our holiday choices. At that point we hopped into a taxi and sped away to our hotel.

The InterContinental Presidente Puerto Vallarta Res Hotel was a short drive from the airport. When we arrived at the charming open-air lobby that over-looked the breathtaking private beach, I knew we had chosen the best location for our romantic interlude. Check in was efficiently handled in our charming suite filled with vibrant colours and modern, contemporary Mexican furnishings.

We were asked to choose from among four experiences (Joy of life, Romance, Renewal and Peace of Mind). Once we chose ‘romance’, the scents, music, stones, flowers and the amenities in our room were arranged to create a sensual energy. After marvelling at the splendid view of the ocean from our private terrace, we hurriedly freshened up and rushed headlong to our first dip in the sea.

We considered dining in the hotel that evening, but instead asked the concierge to recommend a sophisticated restaurant with a relaxed ambiance. His recommendation, La Palapa, was an inspired choice: open air, thatched-roof, beach-side dining. Enjoying excellent margaritas (so cliché, but so delicious) while we watched the sunset surrounded by lit torches proved to be one of our most superlative moments in Puerto Vallarta. The first course of tortilla soup showed that you can improve on traditional recipes; the chef added plump fresh shrimp to elevate this very simple dish.

After dinner we were still feeling a bit hungry-for some action–so we decided to check out the nightlife on offer. Along the Malecón, a wide seaside walkway, there are many lively spots where 20-somethings dance on tables til the small hours. We had heard about a super-chic spot, de Santos, that had an urban, hip crowd and wicked cocktails. It was exactly as described and we spent the next few hours dancing to disco and house grooves and chilling out on the rooftop terrace.

The next morning we had booked a snorkelling expedition and were up early, eager to see the marine life. After breakfast, we were driven to the nearby harbour. The knowledgeable guide knew all of the spots to see a huge array of aquatic creatures – from manta rays and eels to all manner of colourful fish.

I am not a very experienced snorkeller, but my husband is well-versed in all things aquatic and even he was amazed at the variety and amount of sea creatures – many that he had never laid eyes on before! Unfortunately we were not visiting Puerto Vallarta during the season that the hump-backed whales come to mate and bear young. I would have loved to see those sea giants!

After our marine adventure, we were ready for a lazy afternoon at the pool. The hotel offers fantastic pool-side amenities: we kept the pool concierge busy with requests for additional towels, sun-protection cream and refreshing fruit cocktails. Lounging by the pool while enjoying the view of the stunning beach was just pure luxury.

We could not visit Puerto Vallarta without enjoying a night of traditional Mexican food and entertainment. The concierge suggested that we start with dinner at one of the small, casual family-run restaurants along Madero road, so that’s where we had the taxi drop us off. We found a non-descript, cosy one filled with locals and waited for a seat. The owner and staff (all family) were full of smiles and very welcoming in spite of our amateurish, high school Spanish. We gorged ourselves on the tasty traditional menu offerings.

The restaurant owner pointed us to a local restaurant/bar that has a nightly mariachi show. Mariachi Loco was loud, raucous and filled with locals laughing at the comedy, moving to the music and singing along with the singers. Being among ordinary locals away from the tourist nightspots was a real treat. We didn’t understand most of what was being said, but it was a blast enjoying a bit of the local colour!

Arriving back at the hotel in the wee hours, we found that the ‘romance’ turndown service included a bath filled with rose petals, surrounded by candles. It was a welcome surprise and even though it was late, we still made time to wind down in the lovely ambiance created.

Most of the rest of our days and nights were spent lazing by the pool, swimming in the azure waters and partaking of many of the local culinary specialties. However, I could not leave Puerto Vallarta without seeing the famous, and infamous, Casa Kimberley – the house that Richard Burton built for Elizabeth Taylor at the height of their romance.

The house has not been changed and the current owners operate a museum and bed and breakfast. It was lovely viewing the house and it is definitely number one on my list of accommodations for our next visit. That is the most wonderful thing about this former sleepy port town with its cobblestone streets, golden sands and tranquil seas – it gets under your skin and ensures that you return.