On The Yoga Trail
On The Yoga Trail
by Kirsten Kindermann
by Kirsten Kindermann
Yoga has changed my life. I'd be a different person without it. It calms me when I'm upset, empowers me when I feel weak and gives me a strong, supple physique. So after years of being a “yoga junkie” I decided this holiday would be spent doing yoga in India. Although I'm intrigued by the discipline of an ashram setting, my husband is not so keen and this was to be a holiday for the both of us.
I was delighted to discover that many hotels throughout India offer yoga classes. Perfect! I could fulfill my yoga fantasy while he could fulfill his fantasy of relaxing. We both agreed that the beach was our first desire, so we flew into the bustling city of Mumbai, the home of Bollywood, and then headed south to Goa.
We checked into the Cidade De Goa Beach Resort. Not only does this beachfront resort offer yoga, it even has a fortune teller! As I stood on our balcony, gazing at the glittering Arabian Sea, I inhaled the fresh salty air, and felt the tension of the long flight dissolve into the breeze. My wake-up call came at 7am and though still tired from jet-lag, I was excited to experience my first yoga class in India.
I shuffled down to the beach and found several other puffy-eyed practitioners stretching before the horizon. Our teacher was a strong, sinewy Indian man dressed in nothing but a loin cloth. This is Goa after all; modesty is for other parts of India. We began by sitting with our eyes closed, simply breathing in the freshness of the morning air. “Breathe in peace, breathe out tension” I heard our guru's voice instruct as I felt the rising sun gently warm my face.
I smiled and took a deeper breath. I exhaled, releasing the worries of deadlines and duties back home. Each breath felt increasingly easy and free. “Open your eyes”, guru said. I awakened to a new day bathed in golden light. “Stand up. Surya Namaskara”, guru commanded. Perfectly suited to the moment, we faced the sun and began the “Sun Salutations”, a series of positions that invigorates the entire body and mind.
Now the deeper layers of tension began to cry out and then disappear. Soon I was drenched in sweat feeling very awake and energised. The session ended in a sublime Savasana – Relaxation Pose. As I lay there, I sensed my body gently sinking into the soft golden sand. I arose completely refreshed and free of jet-lag.
The next day I visited the Purple Valley Yoga Centre, a charming retreat offering drop-in classes as well as teacher training programs in two tranquil locations. Purple Valley specializes in my favourite form of yoga – Ashtanga. For those liking a slower approach, they also offer general Hatha classes.
After a few days in Goa, we headed further down the coast into Trivandrum, staying at Surya Samudra Beach Resort in Kovalam. After settling into our seaside bungalow, we indulged in exotic treatments at the resort's Ayurvedic centre. They had great yoga and meditation classes, taught by a jolly, round Indian woman. Despite her roundness, she was as strong and flexible as our sinewy guru in Goa.
Leaving the coast, we headed inland to Kumarakom, settling into Golden Waters cultural village. Staying in one of their charming cocoon-shaped houseboats was really a unique experience. Surrounded by nature and a bird sanctuary, yoga classes were accompanied by an incredible orchestra of birds. Traditional Indian dances were performed in the evenings. This was truly a peaceful place.
We had one more stop before heading north – Mysore, the home of Ashtanga Yoga and its beloved Master, Sri K. Pattabi Jois. At his Ashtanga Yoga Research Institute, classes are taught in traditional Mysore style, meaning that you practice independently without instruction. The teacher corrects positions if needed. The institute is hugely popular, with devotees arriving long before sunrise just to get a space. Even so, I had to check it out.
Upon entering the room, I found the largest group of the most incredibly fit and flexible bodies I had ever seen. It looked more like acrobats than yoga, with sweat literally pouring off these muscular physiques. Since there was no space for me, I just watched in awe and admiration.
The next day I visited Mysore Mandala, a yoga centre and organic farm. Though the classes were done in Mysore style, I appreciated the more intimate feel of the place. I received strong physical adjustments from the teacher, deepening my practice to a whole new level. My husband and I returned that evening for an enchanting Sitar concert.
We flew from Mysore to Udaipur, often called the Venice of the East. With magnificent palaces encircling a lake, Udaipur is perhaps the most romantic city in India. Founded 450 years ago by a visionary King, Udaipur is full of these impressive palaces, many of which have been converted into opulent hotels.
The Taj Lake Palace Hotel takes the prize when it comes to ultimate luxury. Situated on its own private island in the middle of Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace makes every guest feel like royalty. We could not pass up staying at least one night. The atmosphere and views from every inch of the palace were truly amazing!
Feeling the pinch in our budget, we moved up into Udaipur's Aravali mountains to the remote Devi Garh Resort. As a spectacular palace fort from the 18th century, the Devi Garh made no compromises in luxury. With a variety of suites and seasonal tents to choose from, we decided to “rough it” and stay in one of their beautiful tents.
I enjoyed the yoga and meditation classes which were held outside in the crisp mountain air. After a sunset meditation, I opened my eyes, gazed out over the dramatic landscape, and felt perfectly at peace. Practicing yoga in India was an extraordinary experience. More than a holiday, it transformed my yoga practice. I will always follow the path of yoga, whether in India or elsewhere.
To read other articles on India, go to our archive
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