Crossing the causeway from the mainland, I had my first glimpse of Venice; shrouded in hazy sunshine, it looked like a mirage hovering over the water. After arriving at Santa Lucia train station, which is in central Venice, I tripped lightly down the steps for my first real look at the city. I faced the Grand Canal with vaporetti (public “bus” ferries) lumbering to and fro and taxi speedboats zipping by with tourists aboard and was not disappointed. Venice was even better than my wildest dreams.

The Bauer Il Palazzo is a majestic 18th-century palace located directly on the Grand Canal, just steps from San Marco Square. We passed by its soaring Gothic façade on our way to more cosy digs a little further away. As it disappeared behind us, I daydreamed about what life must have been like for the noble Venetian families who lived along the Grand Canal when the city was at its peak of maritime power centuries ago.

After getting settled, I couldn't wait to get out and explore the city. I am not a big fan of rushing to see every monument and attraction in any destination; my preference is to behave as if I live there no matter how short my visit. Walking hand in hand through the quiet alleyways with my true love, inspired me to great heights of dramatic and romantic gestures: we stopped at every bridge to admire the view and share kisses while other visitors did likewise.

As we meandered about there were so many things that caught the eye - architecture, flagstone paving, gondolas… we began to feel overwhelmed with stimuli. We decided to seek respite at a small café and replenish our energies. Osteria Ai Assassini is a typical Venetian bacaro (an informal restaurant or wine bar), with a twist: they have preserved the traditional style and atmosphere while infusing it with a youthful vigour.

We happened upon it in our wandering and were pleasantly surprised to find the food fantastic - serendipity even works in Venice! We began with a small cheese course, then the Venetian specialty, fegato alla veneziana (calves' liver with onions) served with creamy polenta and then, for dessert, we finished with a silky crème brulée and espresso. The convivial owner, Giuseppe, graciously poured us both a complimentary grappino (a small glass of grappa) at the end of our meal.

We had decided on a little promenade to try to walk off such a hearty meal and expected to do a little window shopping, but were waylaid by the music of Verdi coming from a small square. After some investigation, we discovered that there was a small chamber orchestra performing in a church. We sat in the hushed atmosphere, along with a scattering of other music-lovers, and enjoyed the music of one of Italy's most famous sons.

After this musical interlude, we slowly made our way through the awakening streets (as in most of Italy, shops close from 1pm-4pm each day). When we saw the signs directing us to San Marco Square we followed everyone else who was headed in the same direction. We walked through an unassuming archway and found ourselves in a vast piazza bordered on all sides by ornate Italian Renaissance architecture with the byzantine Basilica di San Marco gracing one end.

I stood in awe, but was soon brought back to earth by a political demonstration in one corner of the square that aptly illustrated the nonchalant way that Venetians regarded this wonder - to them it had been the centre of the city's social and political life for so long, that they took its beauty for granted.

Gondolas are truly the most recognizable symbol of Venice and no visit would be complete without a sunset cruise through its winding waterways. Yes, it's a cliché and ultra touristy, but unless you are made of stone, you will find this to be the quintessential Venetian experience. We fell in love all over again to the sounds of the lapping water and the gondoliers calling to each other with the twinkling lights of the city as a backdrop.

Bright and early in the morning we began our sojourn through the streets, stopping to pet the numerous cats and dogs and enjoying the sight of housewives hanging fresh laundry on lines strung high above the streets. We enjoyed a perfect espresso and brioche at a local café and then hurried to our destination, the Peggy Guggenheim Collection. Assembled by the eccentric and eclectic American expatriate Peggy Guggenheim, it is considered to be one of the most comprehensive collections of modern art in the world. We eagerly browsed rooms containing works by some of the most recognized modern artists like Giacometti, Brancusi, Dalí, Léger, Mondrian, Chagall, Ernst and Miró.

Lunchtime found us in a more residential area of the city filled with Venetians on their way home for the noon meal. We spied a small restaurant with a group of workingmen conversing in front and decided to stop there for lunch. Osteria Alla Rampa is a humble, local cucina that serves hearty, honest meals at reasonable prices. We were the only couple in a room filled with local men trading jokes with each other and the congenial waitress while they relished their platters of the day's special, fettuccine with spinach and ricotta. It was accompanied by a bowl filled with the most delicious peas and roasted carrots I have ever eaten.

Instead of walking back to the hotel, we decided to hop onto a vaporetto for our return journey. It turned out to be one of the most enjoyable rides we could imagine on a public vehicle. We were fortunate enough to get one of the coveted outdoor seats in the prow of the boat and marvelled at the site of beautiful buildings with water lapping the uninhabited bottom floors and curtains flapping at the windows on the upper floors; truly a perfect illustration of modern Venice - unbelievable beauty alongside glorious decay.

Since we had spent much of the day walking, we felt a nap was in order. Waking refreshed, and hungry, we made plans for dinner at a restaurant recommended to us by a Venetian friend, Mariano. Osteria Oliva Nera is run by a hospitable Venetian couple, Dino and Isabella. This small restaurant has only a few tables, but it was worth our patient wait outside to sample their classic renditions of Venetian favourites.

There were so many things to see and experience in Venice, that many times I felt quite overwhelmed with its charms. Its architecture and artistic heritage combine with the surreal site of a floating city and give it an otherworldliness that is truly like no other place in the world. Its exquisite details left me breathless…I'm already planning my next visit.