Online Travel Magazine
Issue: October 2004
The Forbidden City
The Forbidden City
by Tim Gladwin
As the curtain fell on this year's Athens' Olympics, the thoughts of many switched to Beijing, the host for the Games of 2008. Unlike their Greek counterparts, the Chinese organizing committee will not be losing sleep over whether projects will be completed in time. In fact, the International Olympic Committee has advised them to slow construction a little, so facilities are not ready too early. It is just one example of the no-stone-unturned attitude that promises to make China's capital city a spectacular venue for the next summer games.
Olympic host city or not, Beijing is an amazing place and one of the World's great tourist destinations. Its' long, glorious, yet bloody past has deposited a wealth of awe-inspiring historical sites, places which positively demand visitation.
The Forbidden City was constructed at the very heart of ancient Beijing. It got its name from the fact that the Ming and Qing dynasty emperors kept this pleasure dome off limits for 500 years. Taking up an area of 720,000 square metres, it is the World's largest palace complex and, between 1420 and 1924, was home to a total of 24 Emperors from the Ming and Qing ruling dynasties. Built in 14 years by an estimated 200,000 labourers, the various buildings house 9,999 rooms, evidencing the level of superstition in a society where the number 9 is believed to be lucky. Today, the Forbidden City, with Tiananmen Square immediately to the south, is a familiar sight on television and in magazines, yet still extraordinary to behold in person.
Similarly impressive is China's Great Wall, although the singular description is somewhat misleading because it is actually a series of walls. The earliest sections of the Wall date back to the 7th century B.C., although what one sees today is essentially the result of a major renovation in the 200 years following the founding of the Ming Dynasty in 1368. Built to repel invaders from the north, incredibly, it runs for over 6,000 kilometres. Sections of the wall close to Beijing are amongst the best preserved and the Mutianyu section, around 70 kilometres to the northeast of the capital, is one of the best spots to experience this astonishing structure. Moving west, the Badaling section is also well worth a visit. Whichever part of the Wall you choose to see, it is a good idea to go during either the early morning or the late afternoon to avoid the biggest crowds.
Another remnant of China's imperial past is the Summer Palace, which can be found on the northwestern outskirts of Beijing, around 12 kilometres from the centre of the City. Long the site of Imperial palaces, construction of the original Summer Palace was commenced in 1750. Unfortunately, the breathtakingly beautiful buildings and gardens were plundered and burnt on two separate occasions by Anglo-French forces during the Opium Wars of the late nineteenth century. Nevertheless, the Palace was rebuilt and the gardens replanted, so today they again provide a scenic and wonderfully relaxing break from the busy Beijing streets. Dominated by the enormous man-made Kunming Lake, the grounds cover nearly 300 hectares. Hiring a boat and exploring the gardens from the water is a good way to limit your exertions on a hot summer's day.
Nowadays, however, there is far more to Beijing than extravagant reminders of its past. Recent years have seen capitalism gain its first footholds in the World's most populous nation. Many locals have learnt for the first time that shopping can be more than simply a question of acquiring essentials. In fact, millions of them have been transfixed by the new shopping developments that have sprung up all over the capital. Window shopping in Beijing's gleaming mega malls is a favourite pastime of many. This retail explosion has provided the ancient city with yet another attraction for those visiting from abroad.
Wangfujing Street, located close to the Forbidden City, is something of a shopper's paradise and home to a couple of the City's most famous mega malls. Oriental Plaza holds the unofficial title of Asia's largest shopping complex, covering an area of some 100,000 square metres, which encompasses five themed malls. Not much smaller is Sun Dong An Plaza. Its six levels and basement offer great eating options and a wealth of designer clothing stores.
A little to the south east, you will find the Jian Guo Men district, home to a number of similarly impressive malls. COFCO Plaza and the Henderson Center are both worth a visit if only to take a look at their interesting and attractive designs. A little further east is the massive China World shopping mall. It is a particularly stylish place, full of designer labels, and tends to be popular with the ex-pat community. Although expensive, die-hard shoppers wouldn't want to miss it.
Any Chinese shopping trip would not be complete without a visit to a market. The Silk Market, also in the Jian Guo Men district, is Beijing's most famous, especially popular amongst tourists. Selling far more than its name implies, it can provide the skilled negotiator great bargains, although the unwary can pay way over the odds.
Another consequence of the Government's greater openness over the last decade or so has been the growth of Beijing's nightlife. The best known area for bars and clubs is Sanlitun, close to the embassy district north east of the City centre. A pleasant mix of Chinese, ex-pats and tourists fill the innumerable bars, clubs and restaurants. The university district of Haidian also has a good night scene and unsurprisingly is popular with students keen to practice their English language skills. Slightly up market is the Back Lakes area, home to a collection of somewhat quieter, but extremely fashionable cafes and bars.
Beijing provides an astonishing diversity of old and new. Inspired in part by the award of the 2008 Olympic Games, it is currently in a period of rapid growth and development. The City is becoming greener, more modern and open, yet it retains fascinating historic charm. All of which makes it a simply fascinating, utterly original city and a remarkable place to visit.
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