The festival, which begins on October 14 this year, is centred in Phuket City, the island's business centre. It's a fascinating place, with amazing markets and intriguing shops tucked away in little lanes and alleys. The street layout of this bustling small city is totally confusing – I always seem to end up travelling in circles – but it's always worth visiting especially for the fine examples of Sino-Chinese architecture.

You are bound to notice the intriguing Chinese temples, which form the centerpieces of the festival. For nine days, the streets around the temples are transformed as devotees celebrate an age-old Chinese religious tradition in noisy, colourful displays and street processions. Delicious vegetarian food is a big attraction, but it is the gruesome body-piercing rituals that actually draw thousands of visitors to the event.

Participants, who are ostensibly possessed by gods, pierce their tongues, cheeks and faces with metal spikes and rings. Going into a trance, they also climb ladders with rungs of sharp blades and walk barefoot across beds of burning coals. They apparently feel no pain and show little or no sign of real injury. The event celebrates the Chinese community's belief that abstinence from meat and sex during the ninth lunar month of the Chinese calendar will help them obtain good health and peace of mind.

Most people believe it was brought to Phuket about 150 years ago when a wandering Chinese opera group fell ill and an epidemic broke out among Chinese settlers on the island. They decided to save themselves by praying to the Nine Emperor Gods and adhering to a strict diet. They refrained from eating meat, drinking alcohol, engaging in sex, quarreling, telling lies or killing. The epidemic ceased, and, every year since, the people of Phuket have continued to celebrate the festival.

During the festival, accommodation on the island is at a premium. I always stay in Patong Beach, the main tourist centre. It has a lovely long, safe beach and the best nightlife on the island. There are hundreds of bars, restaurants and nightclubs to choose from. Besides, Phuket City is only a 20-minute drive away.

I usually spend two days attending the festival. Like other visitors, I follow the tradition of wearing only white clothing and abstain from eating meat for at least one day. Vegetarian meals are available at street stalls and markets, but the vegetarian dishes are not easily distinguished from regular dishes – tofu and protein substitute products are used to make all dishes look and taste uncannily like meat. Look for the yellow flags with red Chinese or Thai characters to find vegetarian food stalls.

However, the best fare is on offer at the six Chinese temples. The main temple is Jui Tui Shrine not far from the Fresh Market in Phuket City. Meals at these temples are provided free, but you should register at the temple before eating and make a donation when you leave.

The opening event is the raising of the Lantern Pole, an act that notifies the nine Chinese gods that the festival is about to begin. Over the next few days, members of the local Chinese-Thai community bring their household gods to the temple, along with offerings of food and drink. It is assumed that the household gods will benefit from the annual injection of spiritual energy that fills the temple. Visitors can observe and even participate in the lighting of joss sticks and candles that are placed around the various gods.

For most, the surreal acts of daring from the faithful form the most absorbing part of the festival. During the performance of religious rites at the temples, the priests execute dangerous feats to demonstrate the power of their gods and strengthen the faith of their followers. These acts, which include fire-walking, climbing the blade-ladder and piercing of the body, have become more spectacular and daring as each year goes by.

Men and women puncture their cheeks with various items including knives, skewers and other household items. It is believed that the Chinese gods will protect such persons from harm, and little blood or scarring results from such mutilation. This is definitely not for the feint-hearted.

To get the best view of the processions, I always position myself near the market in Ranong Road in Phuket City. It's very convenient, because this is also the terminus for the busses from the beach resorts. The street gets pretty packed, with thousands of locals and camera-toting tourists trying to get the best view. The best advice I can give is just to “go with the flow”, as I always end up moving along with the procession.

When I return to my hotel in Patong, I am usually totally exhausted, but by the next morning I am always ready for action again. If it's not another day at the festival, I head for the beach, the golf course or one of the fabulous day spas for a bit or pampering. When I have had my fill of the great vegetarian fare, I slip into one of the many steakhouses and burger outlets catering for devoted meat-eaters like me!