Online Travel Magazine
Issue: August 2008
Singapore
Gourmet Singapore
by Peter Graham
It is said that there is only one thing that Singaporeans prefer to eating out – and that is talking about eating out. Whether it's a noodle stand at a food court or the latest designer restaurant, the people of the tiny island at the tip of the Malaysian peninsula can get pretty passionate when it comes to things culinary. The thing is: they do have something to crow about.
Few cities can match the range and quality of the food on offer in virtually every corner of Singapore. And how many other cities dedicate an entire month to the glory of dining out? The lack of a national cuisine is one of its strengths, as much of the food reflects the diversity of the population, with influences from Chinese, Malay, Indian and British settlers.
The magazine TimeOut Singapore recently devoted an entire issue to choosing the best restaurants in the city. While its choices will certainly have added to the culinary debates already raging, the coverage also emphasises the amazing range of eateries that residents and visitors can enjoy. An interesting trend in this high-rise city is that hotel restaurants are very popular in Singapore.
On reflection, it makes sense that a city that prides itself on its five-star hotels should take the restaurants in these palaces of style very seriously. It's almost unthinkable visiting the city without having at least one meal at Raffles, the hotel that invented the Singapore Sling cocktail, or one of the other top hotels like the Fullerton, the Four Seasons or the Ritz Carlton Millenia.
TimeOut Singapore acknowledges the obsession that the residents of this small nation state have for food, saying that the endless debate over what and where to eat is a national trait. "Singaporeans love food. Some would go so far as to say they live for it," says the magazine. "How else can you explain the many diehards who will regularly (and happily) schlep 45 minutes across the island in search of a plate of wonton noodles?"
The magazine also accepts that its choices will be controversial: "We're confident this issue will trigger a cacophony of arguments and discussions." Among the restaurants honoured by TimeOut were the Hard Rock Cafe (best hamburger), the Cherry Garden at the Mandarin Oriental (best dim sum) and the Majestic Restaurant at the New Majestic Hotel (best hotel restaurant).
As our contribution to the debate, we asked regular visitors to Singapore to come up with the four restaurants that impressed them most. Our choices include an Indian restaurant where you eat off a banana leaf, a Chinese dim sum parlour that's remained a stalwart for decades and a bistro in a turf club setting. Finally, we give you the lowdown on a Sunday brunch offering unlimited French champagne.
Banana Leaf Apolo Restaurant
The speciality here is the fish-head curry. Yes, you get a whole fish head served in a tomato based sauce. You pick away at the flesh on the head first, leaving the eye sockets for last. If this sounds a little too exotic for you, be assured that there are plenty of other excellent dishes like fried jumbo prawns, Sri Lankan crab, curried squid and great vegetarian fare.
Everyone acknowledges that the food is great, but you'll also come here for the unique ambience. Unlike the city's classiest joints, this place feels more like a cheap cafeteria - and that's just how its many fans love it. Your rice and papadams will be served on a large banana leaf and you'll be expected to eat with your fingers.
If you want a napkin, you'll be charged for it. You can ask for cutlery, but that will only show that you don't really belong here. The food can be very spicy, which you can cool down with curd (traditional yoghurt). It goes without saying that this is a great place to show off to first-timers to the city. Address: 54-58 Race Course Road, Little India, Singapore. Phone: 6293-8682
Greenhouse at the Ritz Carlton Millenia Hotel
You can't visit the city without trying out a Sunday champagne brunch. In Singapore, it's the highlight of the weekend - and one taken very seriously by the top hotels. Here they don't get away with serving you one or two small sips of a no-name brand sparkling wine, the champagne is real champagne. While the Fullerton Hotel's Town restaurant has a strong following, those in the know head for Greenhouse at the splendid Ritz Carlton.
An unlimited flow of Moët & Chandon Vintage Brut is the highlight, but you can snack on freshly shucked oysters, seafood, roasts and freshly baked soufflés. For cheese lovers, you will have a choice of at least 80 varieties. If you tire of the bubbly stuff, you can switch to complimentary mojitos and caprioskas. The Sunday brunch runs from 11:30am to 3pm. Address: Ritz Carlton Millenia Hotel,7 Raffles Avenue, Singapore. Tel: 6337-8888.
Red Star Chinese Restaurant
If you are really out to impress someone who knows about Chinese cuisine, you will head for the Summer Palace at the Regent Hotel. This grande dame of Singapore Cantonese cuisine offers impeccable service and the finest fare. But if you want to feast on delicious dim sum in less glamorous surroundings, then the Red Star is for you. The lift doesn't stop at the same level as the restaurant, the gaudy interior has remained the same for decades and the menu takes no notice of any fashionable trends.
What you get here is what you see - rather colourful ladiese wheeling around trolleys of delicious treats like braised chicken feet, char siew tarts, egg congee and roast pork. Dishes worth trying are steamed fish head with black bean sauce, fried yam pots filled with scallops, prawns with cashews and Mandarin chicken. Address: 54 Chin Swee Road, Singapore. Tel: 6532 5266
Picotin
It's difficult to choose Singapore's most trendy restaurants, but Picotin will head up many people's list. The name is the word for the measure of grain used for feeding horses, reflecting this bistro's setting in the grounds of the old Turf Club. Opened last year by a leading restaurateur and a top chef, this eatery has been controversial from the start with as many detractors as avid fans. One of the reasons is that it defies classification. Ostensibly a French bistro, one of its most popular dishes is pizza.
And while it is aimed at the trendy set, it is also family friendly. The outdoor area is casual, the air conditioned indoor restaurant less so. Supporters point to the delicious fare such as beef bourguignon, duck confit and escargots, while detractors say it tries to be everything to everyone. But, with its country setting, impressive credentials and eclectic appeal, it remains packed. And the controversial buzz that surrounds it does little harm in a city that likes nothing better than a good debate about where to eat. Address: 100 Turf Club Road, Singapore. Tel: 6877-1191
For other reports on Singapore, go to our archive
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