Online Travel Magazine
Issue: August 2006
Swiss Gem
Swiss Gem
by Ms Q
I am an avid gardener. The feel of soil between my fingers as I plant new seeds provokes in me a sense of quiet contentment. Watering my seedlings and watching them grow into recognizable plants is almost miraculous. Especially because this doesn’t happen often–unlike other gardeners who have a “green thumb”, I have a brown thumb which tends to kill or fatally injure every plant I come into contact with.
This does not stop me from being enamoured with the idea of gardening and enjoying others’ gardening handiwork, however. When a friend recently re-located to Geneva, Switzerland to work at one of the UN-related NGOs, I thought that this would be the perfect chance for me to visit one of the most green, garden-filled European cities.
Arriving at Geneva International Airport was like a dream – the view of the Alps and Lake Geneva was truly spectacular. The airport is small, but well laid-out and easily negotiated. After retrieving my luggage, I made a simple and quick detour through immigration and customs and then followed the signs to the taxi queue. There are several inexpensive bus and rail options to get from the airport into the city, but as I had a few pieces of luggage, it was easier to take a taxi.
When I asked my friend for a hotel recommendation, I told her I wanted a small, stylish hotel near the Old Town. She suggested the Sofitel Geneve - a small, sophisticated 4 star hotel a few minutes walk from Lake Geneva and the elegant 5 star Beau Rivage Hotel Geneva. The Beau Rivage sounded lovely, but I decided to save it for a time when I returned with my husband – when he would be paying!
I was not disappointed with my choice of the Sofitel - it offered luxury and, importantly, excellent value. I couldn’t believe how soft and comfortable the bed was-I had a fantastic night’s sleep every night! And the service, from the front desk staff who allowed me to check in to my room early, to the concierge who helped me brush up on my French, all of the staff I encountered were warm, friendly and helpful.
My time in Geneva was short, so I wanted to make the most of my days. I planned an itinerary that would allow me to visit as many of the parks and gardens as possible. My evenings would be spent sampling the sophisticated nightlife on offer with my friend. I decided to begin my perambulations at the most famous symbol of Geneva, the Jet d’Eau. This 400 foot high (130 meters) plume of water is the world’s highest shooting fountain and is a dramatic display of Swiss engineering prowess. It is also one of the most beautiful sights to see it spurting in the air over Lake Geneva (Lac Léman to the locals). It’s impossible to get very close to it without getting soaked, so I kept my distance and enjoyed the view.
Leaving the fountain behind, I continued to the charming, lake-side garden, Jardin Anglais. This English-styled garden had scads of beautiful roses in full bloom. But the two focal points of this city oasis is the Horloge Fleurie (Flower Clock), a masterful combination of technology and floral art and the Monument National, erected in memory of Geneva's annexation to Switzerland in 1814. Planted in 1955 to celebrate Geneva's watch-making industry, the Flower Clock continues to be an enduring, and blooming, symbol of Geneva. I marvelled at the artistry of growing 6000+ plants in such intricate designs.
Wandering around in the sunshine and fresh, clean air left me famished and so I consulted my list of likely cafés and restaurants for lunch (given to me by my friend and double-checked with the hotel concierge). I decided on one of the oldest restaurants in Geneva, the circa 17th century Hotel-Restaurant Les Armures, located in the Old Town (Vielle Ville). Geneva is a perfect walking city, so I took my time meandering through the quaint streets until I arrived at the restaurant, located in the heart of the Old Town next to St Pierre cathedral.
After a lovely al fresco luncheon, I decided that Parc La Grange, located on the lake shore, would be my next destination. As I arrived, I was amazed by the gorgeous aroma of roses. Parc La Grange is a vast landscaped expanse of 40 thousand+ rose bushes that drench the air with the headiest scent. This was truly heavenly! I can’t get one rose bush to flourish, let alone 40 thousand…colour me impressed.
I was a bit tired from all of the walking and decided to finish the afternoon with a boat cruise tour on Lake Geneva. This was not an intimate journey, there were a lot of other tourists; but the pre-recorded commentary pointed out all of the interesting flora and fauna. It was amazing to see so many birds in what was essentially a green-filled urban setting.
Following all of this nature and fresh air, my hotel bed was calling to me for a nap. I had to make sure that I was rested for my first foray into the Geneva nightscape.
When I awoke, refreshed from my nap, I called my friend to find out where we were going that evening and what the dress code was. She told me that she would be taking me to a relatively upscale café for dinner and to dress “casually elegant”. It turns out that it was the perfect advice for Le Café-Restaurant Papon, one of the most venerated restaurants in Geneva. We had a wonderful dinner that was a visual feast as well as a gastronomic one – lots of people watching opportunities.
After dinner, we opted for a quick twitch through the hotspot B'Club - Le Baroque. The wine-red upholstery and the scene-y atmosphere made us both feel right at home. We enjoyed scoping out all of Geneva’s beautiful people while we sipped expensive confections, but all bets were off when we moved to the dance floor downstairs. The music mixologist spun everything from house music to R & B - we didn’t leave the floor until he stopped his musical assault. Sweaty and breathless, I couldn’t wait to jump in the shower back at the hotel and fall in the bed.
I managed to take in a few more beautiful parks during my short stay: Parc des Eaux Vives from which I gazed at postcard-perfect views over the lake and Parc des Bastions, which features giant chessboards and large statues of Geneva's Calvinist founding fathers. But mostly I found myself wandering around taking advantage of the joys of serendipity.
In this way I happened upon charming local cafés filled with locals only, small details of architecture in the Old Town and little known corners that I am still keeping to myself. One thing I will shout about, though, is how exceedingly wonderful all of Geneva is. They say all roads lead to Rome, but I think at least one leads to this fascinating, yet idyllic city.
This month’s article
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