However, the attractions of the streets had to wait until we had had our tapas. For the uniniated, they are appetizer-size servings of just about anything your heart desires. Whether it is slithers of ham or stuffed peppers or pieces of squid stacked on a small round of bread, they all go under the one name.

As we tackled one divine morsel after another, I explained the origins of tapas to my wife. It is commonly accepted that tapas were first served more than 100 years ago as titbits of food on a slice of bread - or paper, or a saucer - placed on top of a wine glass to keep flies out. Now they have become just as popular as the wine.

These days, eating has become a serious business in Barcelona. March 2005 to March 2006 has been designated the city's Year of Food, Cuisine and Gastronomy and the city is celebrating with street food fairs, wine tastings, cooking classes and even a chocolate fair. Local fare, dubbed “New Catalan Cuisine”, is recognised as the next international culinary wave and, last year, six restaurants in the region received the coveted Michelin star.

Restaurants worth a visit include Enoteca at the Hotel Arts, Emu at Guilleries 17, Torre de Alta Mar in Barceloneta, and Bestial at Port Olimpic. For local fare at reasonable prices, try the paella at La Fonda, just off La Rambla. The main meal of the day is lunch – breakfast is usually a quick snack at a bar on the way to work. Lunchtime runs from 2pm-4pm.

The best deal is always the menu del dia, a set-price meal usually comprising three courses, with a drink thrown in. It will cost you anything from six Euros and up. A plat combinado is a simpler version still - a one course meal consisting of 'meat-and-three-vegetables'. Dinner never starts until 9pm and it is not uncommon for meals to be served at midnight.

Enough of the food – it was time to explore La Rambla and its neighbour, the Gothic Quarter. We walked past the noisy bird market and the colourful Mercat de la Boqueria, regarded as one of the best fresh produce markets in Europe. A little further south, we stopped to admire the world's most famous pavement art, the Mosaic de Miro, and searched for the one tile signed by the artist.

It was in the Gothic Quarter, the district of narrow cobbled streets which flanks La Rambla, that Picasso lived and worked from 1895 to 1904. Joan Miro was born and lived here during his youth. Next stop was the Gran Teatre del Liceu, the 19th-century opera house, and then the Maritime Museum at the Royal Shipyards.

It was only the first afternoon of our short holiday, but we had already fallen under the spell of this great city. It is hard to believe that, only a few decades ago, Barcelona was a rundown industrial centre and far from a tourist paradise. Then came the Olympic Games in 1992, which totally transformed the city. Now it is top of the list when it comes to trendy European destinations. With eight kilometres of sandy beaches, bars open for 20 hours a day and 11 months of sunshine, it can cater for the holiday crowd, while its perfectly preserved medieval heart and museums keep the culture vultures happy.

On the second day, we decided to take in only two sights so that we could spend some time on the beach. We started off at the Sagrada Familia, the unfinished cathedral designed by the city's most famous son, Antoni Gaudi. Work began on this awe-inspiring building in 1882 and still continues today. Nevertheless, its spires dominate the skyline and it has become a symbol of the city. You have to visit it to appreciate how big it really is.

Our next stop was Montjuic, the hill overlooking the city. It not only houses some of the finest art galleries and gardens (the Parc Joan Miro, the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and the Poble Espanyol), but it also the home of the Olympic Stadium. We found the tour of the facilities eye-opening - and have a greater understanding of the task facing London in 2012. If you visit Montjuic in the late afternoon, it is worth waiting for sunset to witness the free light and music show at La Font Magica.

Our third day was set aside for a trip to the seaside town of Sitges, only 35 kilometres south of Barcelona. Famous for the magnificent church which overlooks the beach, L'esglesia de Sant Bartomeu i Santa Tecla, many visitors eschew the beach to spend spend hours browsing through the small shops in the alleys leading up from the seafront.

We caught a train from Barcelona to Sitges and within an hour we were sightseeing in the Old Town area, so named because strict planning regulations mean that little has changed over the years. Later we headed for the beach and, after a swim, we enjoyed a huge dish of paella at one of the little restaurants, our bare feet nestling in the sand. It is not surprising that many people long to settle in this beautiful town. As a result, property prices are sky-high compared to the rest of Spain.

We returned to Barcelona ready to have a nap. As it was our last night, we decided that after a few hours of sleep we would sample some of the city's famous nightlife. The helpful concierge arranged for us to visit two nightspots. Our first stop was the Danzatoria, a bar-cum-club in the wealthy northern suburb of Tibidabo. Three floors of an old family palazzo have been converted into a glamorous venue by the owners' children. Then we headed for the fabulous open-air La Terazza in Montjuic, where our names had been left at the door so we could avoid the long line of clubbers trying to gain entry. Bopping away like teenagers, it was soon 4am and time to head home.

The next day, as we headed to the airport, my wife confessed that she had not been looking forward to the trip and only agreed to visit Barcelona to please me. However, there was no doubting how she felt now. She snuggled up and mentioned that the city Barcelona would be hosting an International Jazz Festival in October and November. I guess we may be there.