On this trip I was determined to experience more of the island’s delights and at least venture to Ubud, the inland artists’ haven. 'Less partying and more culture' was to be my motto. However, my friends, who had already been there for two weeks, seemed determined to map out my stay for me.The first night seemed non-negotiable. “We’re having dinner and drinks at a divine place on Seminyak, then at midnight we’ll hit the bars. At four, we’ll go dancing at Double Six,” I was told. “Will things still be open? It’s a Monday night,” I queried doubtfully. The reaction was a guffaw: “Oh, boy, are you in for a surprise!”

What a pleasant surprise it was. I had imagined that the slump in tourism following the bomb nearly two years ago would have left the island in a state of depression. I expected slightly shabby hotels, long lines of empty taxis touting for business and a rather gloomy air. Nothing could have been further from the truth. While the main tourist area of Kuta looks much the same as it did, with its budget lodgings, surfer shops and “happy hour” bars, other parts of the island have been transformed.

The Seminyak/Oberoi area, which used to be a quiet little residential area to the north of Kuta, has become a very trendy neighbourhood. Here the restaurants, bars and nightclubs match the best that Tokyo, Hong Kong or Bangkok have to offer and would not be out of place in New York, London or Paris. They are trendy, chic and filled with beautiful people, all out having a good time. Down the small lanes you’ll find all types of shops – patisseries, designer clothing boutiques and health spas.

Let’s get back to my evening out. We started off at Gado Gado, an open-sided restaurant virtually on Seminyak Beach. Great view, great food, at pretty good prices. Then we walked up Dhyana Pura Road to the party zone. On this 400-metre stretch of road the bars are as diverse as the clientele. Favourites are Bahiana (all in day-glo orange with a Caribbean feel), Space (high-tech, high-ceilinged), Q Bar (purple and silver with a transvestite show), Antique (glass and concrete, with a divine menu), Kudos (great outdoor seating and the best sound system inside) and the list goes on and on. The style gurus pump themselves up at the two most “happening” places, Liquid and Oxygen, all pristine white and minimalist, with cool, blue fluorescent lighting.

My favourite was Tu Bar, which is on three levels. There’s a street-level terrace for people-ogling, an air-conditioned pool room on the middle level and a lounge on the top. There's also a great menu of Vietnamese food. The bars only really get going at midnight, when most people stroll over from the restaurants dotted along adjoining lanes. If they’re in a party mood, they move on to the clubs anytime after 3am.

The best clubs are situated down another lane, named after the “big daddy” of Bali clubs, Double Six. Facing competition from a host of new clubs, most notably Amnesia and De Ja Vu, the club has recently been revamped. The dance area has been enclosed and airconditioned, with a new bar area and sound system. What really makes it special is its own 48 metre bungee jump and poolside chill-out area. It’s not surprising that Bali’s clubs can attract top international deejays and music groups.

The sun was rising by the time I made it back to my hotel room. What a first night, I thought. However, this pattern was to become my routine – what an unlikely timetable for a relaxing tropical island holiday! By day I would amble down to the beach to relax with a book and snooze away. Later in the afternoon I would go for a massage (highly recommended) and by 10pm I would be sitting down to supper in one of the eateries my friends had already scouted out.

I did manage to venture to Nusa Dua, the peninsula on the tip of the island. With a string of five-star resorts and pristine white beaches, the area caters to well-heeled tourists seeking a more traditional tropical holiday. The hotels are great (especially the Hilton, the Westin Resort and the Sheraton Laguna) and the beaches are the best on the island.

I liked Seminyak village best, with the hustle-bustle of its twisty little roads and modern holiday villas. In this area, good hotels close to the nightlife are the Royal Seminyak, the Pelangi Bali and the Saphir Hotel. A little further down the beach are two spectacular resorts, the Oberoi and the Legian Hotel. They are top-notch beach retreats with all the facilities you could ever need, slightly away from the action. One thing about this touristy tip of the island is that it doesn’t really matter where you stay.

When it comes to good value for money, Bali is virtually unbeatable. In the past year or two, a number of small shopping centres have opened, adding to the amazing variety of goods on offer. I bought a few colourful oversized sarongs to give to my friends back home for only three dollars each. (It sounds like a fortune in the local currency – one dollar is worth roughly 9300 Indonesian Rupiah!) You have to remind yourself that when you pay 15,000 rupiah for a beer at one of the trendy bars, you are spending less than two US dollars.

In the end, I never made it to Ubud, situated an hours drive inland. Apparently, it has the best shopping on the island and some exquisite Balinese villas tucked away in the hills. I’ll have to leave that for my next trip. It’s a good excuse to get back to Bali again.