The former Portuguese enclave may be extremely small, in total only around 23.5 square kilometres, but it can be a thrilling place to spend a couple of days. Being only 40 miles away from Hong Kong it takes only an hour and around US$20 to get there by jet foil. More extravagant travellers may decide to save forty minutes or so in transfer time by using the regular helicopter service, although the cost is nearly ten times as much.

Macau is, of course, famous for its casinos and they are the principal reason why so many Hong Kong Chinese head over there at every given opportunity. Until recently, casino mogul Stanley Ho held a gaming monopoly in the territory, which meant there was little incentive for new development. However, now that additional licences have been issued to other operators, everything has changed.

The Las Vegas based Sands company recently opened the first stage of what will eventually be a gigantic development, with a casino and small hotel. By 2006, the Venetian Macau Resort is scheduled to have 1,500 luxury suites, a 1,000,000 square foot convention centre, a 15,000 seat arena, a 2,000 seat showroom and a 600,000 square foot shopping mall. Another Las Vegas giant, Wynn Resorts is currently starting construction on an extravagant development of its own, while MGM Mirage has just announced plans to join the party. Little surprise then that some commentators are predicting Macau will soon become the Vegas of the East.

But there is more to Macau than just casinos and gambling. The territory is actually made up of a peninsula tagged onto Mainland China together with two islands, Taipa and Coloane. Taipa, which is home to the Macau racetrack and a handful of casinos, is reached by bridge. A causeway takes you on to Coloane, by far the prettiest of the three areas.

My own personal preference is to head over to Coloane's relative tranquility as soon as I can escape from the ferry terminal. Subject to traffic, the taxi ride is little more than fifteen minutes. Once over the causeway, the roads are quickly enclosed by mature trees. The pretty little villages you pass through tend to have a certain European quality to them. It is a wonderfully quiet, relaxing alternative to both Hong Kong and the nearby peninsula.

The island is home to Macau's very own Championship golf course, which lies at one end of Hac Sa beach. At the other end is Fernando's restaurant, which has become somewhat of an institution with Hong Kong expatriates for very good reasons. The food, which has a distinctly Portuguese flavour, is simply superb and amazingly good value. The surroundings are wonderfully relaxed and bring to mind memories of seaside restaurants in the Algarve. The whole package makes it an unbeatable option for a long lunch and a lazy afternoon spent working your way through the wine list.

Coloane's other great attraction, for me at least, is its go-kart track. The high speed karts and thrilling layout of the circuit guarantee an adrenaline pumping experience. A few flying laps is a great way to set yourself up for a late lunch at Fernando's.

Back on the peninsula, the most popular spot amongst sightseers tends to be the Ruins of St. Paul's Cathedral. They date back to the early 17th century and evidence the important role Macau once played in the spread of Christianity into China. Then, close by, there are literally dozens of shops selling a variety of new and antique wooden furniture. There are lots of interesting and attractive bargains to be found and the shop owners, familiar with tourist trade, will happily arrange for pieces to be shipped anywhere in the World.

Once the sun goes down, there are many excellent dining options. My own personal favourite is the restaurant at the Pousada de Sao Tiago, which was originally a Portuguese fortress built to defend Macau's inner harbour. Sitting out on the beautiful terrace sheltered by the branches of a gigantic banyan tree is simply delightful. The food is equally impressive.

After dinner is a good time to visit one of the many casinos to see whether lady luck has accompanied you for the evening. However, for those who are keen to keep hold of their shirts, the recently developed ‘Docas' waterfront area has an impressive selection of smart cafes, bars and clubs. Dependent upon your mood, you can either relax at the tables outside or take on crowds and loud music inside the best of the venues.

If you decide to stay overnight, the pick of the local hotels is undoubtedly the Mandarin Oriental Resort. Located close to the ferry terminal, it is a sumptuous oasis from the hustle and bustle outside. Landscaped gardens and a freeform swimming pool with its own waterfall provide a wonderfully relaxing environment in which to kick back. For more active guests, the amenities are truly amazing, including a spa, tennis and squash courts, a children's centre, a learning centre, a gym and a casino.