Greek Island Odyssey

Greek Island Odyssey
by Kirsten Kindermann
by Kirsten Kindermann

I'd had my fill of big cities, so I certainly did not want my holiday to begin in one. I was thrilled to find a direct flight from London to the Greek island of Corfu. Perfect! My vacation would begin on Homer’s ‘beautiful and rich land’, Odysseus’ last stop before returning home from his legendary journey. Also known as Kerkira, Corfu is the second largest and greenest Ionian Island, lingering just offshore from Albania and north-western Greece.

My research told me that there's “three different Corfus” - Corfu the coast, Corfu the town, and Corfu the island. Corfu the coast attracts beach lovers, and then there is cosmopolitan Corfu Town, with its layers of Greek, Italian, French, and British elements. The interior of Corfu the island is barely explored and holds a wealth of lush vegetation, gentle slopes, and quaint old villages.

Since my flight arrived late at night, I decided to base myself in Corfu Town and venture out from there. The charming Cavalieri Hotel placed me on a picturesque hilltop in the Old Town, overlooking gardens, forts and shimmering sea. Two ancient forts dominate the landscape of the Old Town – the Neo Frourio (Fort) and Palaio Frourio, both dating back to the 12th century. These are worth visiting, especially for the views they bestow.

On my first morning in Corfu, I stepped out of my hotel and into the beautiful gardens of The Spianada (Esplanade). This claims to be the largest square in Europe, extending from one end of the town to the other. It is flanked by lovely old buildings on one side and Palaio Frourio and the sea on the other. Here one can swim in the sea, sip a cool drink at an outdoor cafe, or simply relax under a shady tree and watch the people pass by.

The Spianada also boasts Greece’s only cricket field, a legacy of the British. At the north end of the cricket field, I came upon the peaceful gardens of the Palaces of Saints Michael and George. Built from 1819 to 1823, the palaces were built as a residence for the English high commissioner.

Later, they housed the headquarters of the Ministerial Battalion of St Michael and St George before they were used as a royal summer residence. Today the palaces house the Museum of Asian Art, a Public Library and the Archaeological Service. Behind the Palace I found an inviting garden café and enjoyed a fresh fruit juice among flowers. After a refreshing dip in the sea, I explored more of the narrow allies of the Old Town with their grand Georgian mansions, Venetian buildings and Byzantine churches.

Refreshed and ready to hit the beach, I hopped on a bus and in 20 minutes found myself on Dassia Beach. This was a popular tourist beach, backed by bars, restaurants and big hotels. It was easy enough to get there from town, however I decided the next day I would seek some quieter shores on the other side of the island.

The forty-five minute scenic bus ride from town to beautiful Paleokastritsa was well worth it. Here I swam in tranquil turquoise coves and gazed upon pine covered hills. Inspired by the scenery and meandering roads, I decided to be adventurous and hire a motorbike. I cruised a little way south along the west coast to Agios Gordios Beach and further through the rolling green hills to Agios Georgios Beach. These were beautiful beaches with wide stretches of sand perfect for lounging and sun-bathing.

After several days in Corfu, I took a plane to Crete, the largest, and some say, most beautiful island in the Greek archipelago. As the plane approached, I could see a spectacular mountain range running the length of the island. Deep in one of the many dramatic valleys lay Samaria Gorge National Park, a hikers’ haven.

Landing in Crete’s capital, Iraklio, I was surprised at what a bustling city it was. I wouldn’t be staying here, but I could appreciate the chic boutiques and restaurants that I passed as my taxi took me to the pretty beachside town of Agios Nikolaos. I checked into the Lato Hotel Agios Nikolaos, an adorable boutique hotel set in landscaped gardens on the slopes of a hill. From my private balcony I savoured the fabulous views of the sea and islands below.

One of the attractions Crete is renowned for is its ancient city of Knossos. Only recently discovered in the 1900s by British archaeologist Sir Arthur Evans, Knossos was the capital of Minoan Crete and the home of the mythical Minotaur kept by King Minos. Sir Arthur spent 35 years and a quarter of a million pounds excavating and reconstructing the ruins.

Despite what some critics say, he did a spectacular job. It took me around four hours to really explore the impressive site. Thanks to Sir Arthur’s labour of love, significant parts of the complex are instantly recognizable. Vibrant frescos, the throne room, mighty columns and endless corridors made it easy for me to imagine what it must have been like back in 1900 BC.

From Crete, I took a short ferry ride to Santorini, the ‘diamond of the Greek Islands’. Its white sculptured villages are perched atop steep volcanic cliffs that plunge into the deep blue Aegean Sea. It is paradise for artists, hikers, honeymooners or anyone who just wants to sit at a cafe and soak up the sun and scenery.

I stayed on the east coast at Kamari Beach. Luck was on my side as I just so happened to be in Kamari for the fantastic outdoor Santorini Jazz Festival! It was such a treat to mingle among the locals while listening to the lively performances of both Greek and foreign musicians. The festival takes place every July for three days under a canopy of trees. I dedicated the rest of my time on Santorini to the sea, the food and photography. The Volcano Diving Centre took me out on some magnificent undersea adventures. I sampled an array of local delights at cheerful beachside eateries.

The beachfront road is for pedestrians only, making it utterly enjoyable to people-watch and listen to the lapping waves. I was told by a fellow traveller that I should not miss visiting one of the oldest wineries on the island and its impressive gallery, Art Space. Located just outside Kamari, the atmosphere of the old wine caverns were beautifully enhanced by superb works of art. The wine was good too! I found an abundance of photo opportunities, many from my hotel balcony. As I gazed upon the glittering sea, I reflected upon my Greek Island Odyssey and knew I would some day return to this magnificent land of myths and legends.
For more information about the Greek Islands, visit our Travel Guides.
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