Dazzling Dubai

Dazzling Dubai
by Kirsten Kindermann
by Kirsten Kindermann

Imagine 365 days of sunshine, some of the world's most luxurious hotels, incredible shopping, diverse dining, varied nightlife and traditional culture all coming together in a vast desert. If there's one city that is making the most out of an otherwise barren, uninhabitable landscape, it's Dubai.

As the opulent heart of commerce in the United Arab Emirates, Dubai is an extravagant city of sun and shopping. Remarkably Westernised and rapidly developing, Dubai is constantly adding new attractions to its sprawling sands. There are villas on man-made islands shaped as palm trees, shopping malls that resemble Egyptian temples, indoor skiing, amusement parks, championship golf courses, and extensive plastic surgery facilities. Restless Planet theme park will open in 2008, providing people with the chance to fend off attacks from life-size dinosaur replicas.

The sky is the limit when it comes to Dubai 's engineering feats. In fact, by the end of 2008, Dubai plans to have the tallest building in the world. At 800 metres and 160 stories, the US$8 billion Burj Tower will house luxury hotels and apartments, and the world's largest shopping mall. Part of a 500-acre city within a city, the Burj Tower complex will also provide an array of leisure pursuits, including a three storey aquarium featuring glass tunnels where you can slide right through and come face to face with sharks and other marine life. It will also feature Old Town, built to evoke the atmosphere of yesteryear's Arabia, as well as Fashion Island that will pay homage to haute couture.

Construction starts soon on Hydropolis - the world's first underwater luxury hotel, where guests can sleep with the fishes in 220 translucent bubble-shaped suites situated 20 metres below the surface of the Persian Gulf. Guests will dock at the wave-shaped landing station and be transported through a submerged see-through train tunnel to the jellyfish-shaped hotel.

Two transparent domes will house a concert hall and a ballroom that break the water's surface, with the ballroom featuring a retractable roof. Surface-level swimming pools and a palm-fringed beach complete the design that would stretch the imagination of even Jules Verne, author of 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Expanding further into the desert will be Dubai World Central – an entirely new city nearly twice the size of Hong Kong Island featuring the world's largest airport.

My first impression of Dubai was that of an Arabian Disneyland. Disney does the desert, inhabited by the entire cast of “It's a Small World After All”. In addition to super Disney-like attractions, the streets and businesses are teeming with diversity and traditional attire. Arabs in abayas, Indians shimmering in their saris, Sudanis swathed in turbans, Russian clubs staffed by Russians, Irish pubs staffed with Irish, Swiss hotel managers... just about every nationality in the world working and making up 80% of the country's population - from street cleaners to CEOs.

Since this was my first visit to Dubai, I decided to live it up and stay at the “seven-star” Burj Al Arab hotel. And since I was living it up, why not take a helicopter from the airport directly to the hotel's roof-top landing pad? As we approached the platform, I recalled the spectacular photos I had seen taken from this very spot. Perched some 200 metres above the sea, the heli-pad has been the scene of celebrity photo shoots and has become one of the most famous landing spots in the world.

During the Dubai Tennis Championships it was transformed into the world's highest (and most treacherous) tennis court for Andre Agassi and Roger Federer to bounce some balls for the cameras. For Tiger Woods it was made into the world's highest driving range during the Dubai Desert Classic. One thing for sure, there was nothing half-way about this hotel.

Upon arrival at the Burj, I was greeted with a cool drink and a bouquet of flowers. I was shown to my room where cocktails, canapés and my personal butler awaited. All guest rooms are two-storey suites and mine was no exception with a spiral staircase and a Jacuzzi in the huge marble bathroom.

My butler gave me a tour of my suite whilst explaining how to use all the amenities from the laptop to the remote control curtains. The décor was that of an Arabian palace – heaps of gold and rich coloured fabrics. The service was impeccable. My 24-hour butler was only around when I needed him, the concierge was full of suggestions, and there were presents left on my bed every night.

I pampered myself at the hotel's Assawan Spa and plunged into the infinity pool overlooking the Persian Gulf. I feasted on Arabian delicacies at the underwater Al Mahara restaurant where a submarine simulator transported me to a magical world of sub-aquatic dining. At the 200-metre high Skyview Bar, I enjoyed a custom cocktail created by an expert “mixologist” who deciphered my personal drinking desires after asking me a few questions. This was no ordinary bartender.

Most people come to Dubai to shop. From modern malls to traditional souks (markets), Dubai has got it all. I headed into the Gold Souk along bustling Dubai Creek. The gold shops were unlike anything I had ever seen. There were gold tiaras, gold belts, gold vests, and every kind of gold jewellery you could imagine! The prices were excellent too. Based on the current market price, I simply paid for its weight in gold.

Next I found myself mesmerized by the kaleidoscope of colours within the carpet shops. I entered one and was immediately offered tea and a seat while the salesman presented the most marvellous show of exquisite hand-made carpets. He dramatically unrolled carpet after carpet in a stack in front of me, each shimmering with its own unique silk design.

Wow, I gasped, in awe of their beauty. I learned that some carpets take generations to make, others symbolise stories specific to the family who made it. All of them were stunning works of art. Almost equally astounding were the prices. Certainly some commanded thousands of dollars, but I could afford something for a few hundred dollars that would easily cost thousands back home. I decided this was an opportunity not to be missed and invested in a rose-hued Qum from Iran.

I walked to the Creek and took a water taxi across to Heritage Village. This was another traditional souk, but with the addition of a well-presented museum. Here I learned more about Dubai's history and of its pearl diving heritage. I was amazed to discover that the UAE is only 35 years old.

That means that within my lifetime, the country has transformed itself from a desolate desert sparsely inhabited by Bedouin tribes who roamed on camels, living in tents and mud huts, to a luxurious international tourist and business destination, thanks to the discovery of oil. It is perhaps the fastest developing country in the world. The desert is still there, dotted with natural oases, man-made greenery and modern buildings, but the Bedouin tribes are now either running the country or have been given houses and cars by the government.
While few Bedouin tribes remain in the far corners of the desert, a poor Emirati is a rare thing these days. This was apparent on the roads as brand new Mercedes, BMWs and big SUVs zoomed by. The gold shops were full of local ladies buying gold, the high fashion boutiques were busy with buyers, and the night clubs were packed with Arabs and Americans dancing side by side.

One evening I embarked on a sunset desert safari. We rode camels through red sand dunes and gathered around the fire for a Bedouin barbeque and belly-dancing. This was a highlight of my stay. As the sun set a brilliant orange, I sipped spiced coffee, lounging on the crimson majlis until the stars came out.

The next day I got to be a kid again at Wild Wadi Water Park. This aquatic playground provides all kinds of spills and thrills for everyone from adrenalin junkies to leisure lovers. There was so much to do in Dubai, I found that my three days passed quickly. Although the harsh summers make it unbearable to venture outdoors, the winters are pleasantly cool and there is plenty to do indoors as well as out.
Dubai offers a unique glimpse into Arabia. There is enough traditional culture to spark curiosity, while Western comforts provide luxuries beyond the desert's wildest dreams.
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