Online Travel Magazine
Issue: May 2008
Vienna, Austria
Vienna Shines
by Peter Graham
On 29 June football supporters around the globe will have eyes for only one city - Vienna in Austria. This is when the final of Euro 2008 takes place in the city's Ernest Happel Stadium. It will represent the crowning moment of the tournament, which kicks off on June 8 in Basel and is being co-hosted with neighbouring Switzerland. It doesn't really matter which teams are playing for the trophy, it will be the year's biggest game and second only in sporting interest to the Olympic Games in Beijing.
So what will the soccer fans think of this charming city? Believe me, it will win them over. Vienna is not only the city of music and dance, of pavement cafes, parks and pastries. It has a modern side that offers everything other European capitals can: wild nightclubs, restaurants featuring cuisine from around the globe, stunning hotels and bars with great Austrian beer. Yes, the home of the waltz, Mozart and the Vienna Boys Choir is much more diverse and cosmopolitan than it might first appear.
Its big plus-factor is the drive and verve of its people, who appear to be strictly devoted to the belief that one should live life to the full. The Viennese can be opinionated and forthright, but they are used to getting the best. The city was recently voted as having the highest standard of living in the world, along with Vancouver in Canada.
It's no surprise then that Vienna is often thought of as the place that represents the very best of a European lifestyle. Not overawed by bigger and more glamorous rivals - like Paris, Barcelona or Berlin, this relatively small capital punches way above its weight and holds its own at the centre of the union.
The first time I visited the city I was struck by the magnificent architecture, which ranges from the stately Burgtheater and the historic Imperial Palace to the outrageously flambouyant modernist Kunsthaus Wien. It is said that the city boasts the world's largest collection of historic architecture and that the architecture can serve as a history book of the various historical eras. But you don't have to be an academic student to appreciate the buildings; even the football fans will be impressed.
The city has one of the most vibrant, cosmopolitan inner city areas. Known as the Innere Stadt, the area within the legendary ring, is the heart and soul of Viennese life. In 2001 the area was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Some streets here are car-free, such as the magnificent Karntnerstrasse, which passes the Vienna State Opera House and close the city's famous cathedral. The there's the Hofburg, the Hapsburg palace that now houses the Spanish riding school, the national library and six museums.
I would recommend a visit to Alsergrund, the 9th District. This is where Sigmund Freud grew up and you can visit his home, which is now a museum. The famous psychiatrist, scholar, and visionary lived in the apartment at Bergasse 19 from 1891 until 1938, when he fled from the Nazis with his family to London. The museum is full of photos, artifacts, and memorabilia, including his hat and cane. If you have time after that, you can visit the Liechtenstein palace, which houses the Museum of Modern Art.
You should try to attend a performance by the Spanish Riding School of Vienna. In existence for more than 400 years, the school trains both horses and riders. You just can't visit the city without seeing the magnificent Lipizzaners in action. Another must-see is the Prater Park, a big fairground surrounded by woodland. Its most famous attraction is the landmark ferris wheel. This 220-foot giant was meant to be temporary structure, but it is still delighting visitors.
Even if you are there mainly for the football, try to take in at least one theatrical or musical performance. This is the city of art and culture and Vienna has a proud tradition in opera, classical music and fine arts. The Burgtheater is regarded as one of the world's premier theatres, but there are also other fine venues such as the Akademietheater, the Volkstheater Wien and the Theater in der Josefstadt. The leading opera houses are the Staatsoper and the Volksoper.
Don't despair if your taste is less sophisticated. There are hundreds of small theatres featuring modern experimental works, carbaret and contemporary arts. The city's nightlife centres on the Bermuda Triangle, an area bordered by Judengasse, Seitenstättengasse Rabensteig, and Franz-Josefs-Kai. You'll find everything from little pubs filled with locals to huge international bars with live music. Expect the football fans to spend more than a little time here.
When it comes to hotels, you can choose to live it up in five-star splendour or take advantage of some excellent budget choices. Among the top hotels in the city are the Bristol, the Grand Hotel, the Imperial Hotel and the Le Meridien Vienna. Affordable hotels in the 50 Euro range include Austria Classic Hotel Wien, Mozart Hotel Vienna and Austria Trend Appartementhotel. Wherever you stay, you won't have a problem finding places to dine; the city is packed with great restaurants.
If you can't get there during the football tournament, make a point of visiting at another time of the year. Combine it with a trip to nearby Budapest and Prague for a trio of delights. And, if you visit in winter, you’ll have the added bonus of being able to slip away to the Alps for some skiing. Whichever way you look at it, Vienna is a great destination.
This month’s article
Vienna Shines
by Peter Graham
Vienna is a truly cosmopolitan city that exemplifies all that is good about Europe. Join as us we visit the city as it prepares to host the finals of the Euro 2008 football tournament.
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