Brussels: Europe's Cool Capital
Europe's Cool Capital
by Rhonda McKee
by Rhonda McKee
Europe's Cool Capital by Rhonda McKee I was thrilled when a student friend of mine, Jorge, invited me to join him on a photographic assignment. In his final year of studies in commercial photography in London, his examination assignment was to complete a portfolio on the theme: "Brussels - Capital of Cool". All of his classmates had been given a city and theme. While he would have preferred Barcelona or Amsterdam, he was happy enough with Brussels. "In some ways it is relatively unknown, so that's an advantage," he told me. He was setting off for a three-day shoot in the Belgian capital and asked me to be his assistant, locations scout and advisor.
In the week leading up to the trip he had been researching Brussels and had come up with a list of possible locations and ideas. However, he expected these to be refined or replaced when he got to Brussels . "A place is never as you see it from a distance. It always has a personality that you can only feel when you are there. That's what I will have to try to capture."
After an uneventful flight and bus ride to the city centre, we checked into the Ibis Off Grand Place Hotel, a cheerful three-star hotel close to the Grand Place. A quick shower and we set off to investigate the surrounding streets. The city centre of Brussels is divided into the Upper and Lower Towns.
The Upper Town, which is perched on a hill, is home to some of the city's grandest architecture and spacious parks. We were in the Lower Town, which is centred around the magnificent Grand Place, a wide cobbled medieval square of elegant guild houses. The main building is the Town Hall with its landmark spire.
However, what makes the square special is the daily flower market in summer and the wealth of restaurants and bars in surrounding areas. Judging by the different types of people and diversity of styles, this was where I expected Jorge to find most of his images. Just north of the Grand Place is Ilot Sacre - a tangle of narrow streets which I found charming.
As we walked down the alleyways, I could see Jorge's critical eye at work as he snapped pictures of a couple embracing next to a colourful sign advertising chocolate bon-bons, an old man in a torn coat walking slowly with a bunch of bright red flowers and a little boy kicking a Coke can along the cobbles. We stopped at a pavement café and ordered a beer, a traditional Belgian brand, Jupiler.
Jorge discussed his approach to his assignment. "Most people would expect me to contrast the traditional architecture and history of Belgium with the modern, cosmopolitan peoples who now make up the residents of the city. I will do that," he said, "but I also want to capture a literal interpretation. Brussels is cold, but not necessarily negatively so."
He explained that the next day he would visit the 'political' buildings, the European Commission, the Council of the European Union and the headquarters of NATO, the North Atlantic Treaty Organisation. He wanted me to check out some of the shopping areas and the Mannekin Pis statue and gave me a checklist of things to look out for.
After a night out on the town, most of it in a techno club called Fuse, we set off early the next morning. I started by walking along the Avenue Louise, the city's version of Rodeo Drive or the Champs Elysées. I joined the most elegant of shoppers perusing the discreet displays in the designer stores and boutiques (including Armani, Dior, Gucci and Hermés).
However, I had to admit I was way out of my financial depth, so I retreated to the Marche aux Puces, the flea market on Place due Keu de Balle. I found a divine pair of feather earrings and spotted a stall selling magnificently kitsch beaded curtains. I could have spent hours wandering from stall to stall, but I had to move on.
My final stop was the Galeries St-Hubert. Crowned by a glass roof, this 19th century building overflows with amazing stores, cafes and theatres. I could not resist spending most of the afternoon in the centre, (snacking on a delicious chocolate and strawberry waffle and buying an exquisite pullover and two pairs of shoes), so I had to rush to get to the Mannekin Pis statue.
This bronze sculpture of a young boy urinating has become a symbol of Brussels. He is a big tourist draw card, although many are surprised by how much smaller he is than he appears to be in photographs. Whatever the story of where he came from (there are several unlikely legends), the boy has a special place in the heart of Brussels residents. On special occasions, they dress him. He already has a few hundred different costumes and an organisation has been set up to manage his wardrobe. I loved the idea of the statue assuming such importance to a nation and dutifully bought a cheap replica, which doubles as a corkscrew.
The next day Jorge followed in my footsteps of the day before (surprisingly, using some of my ideas) and then did a whirlwind tour of other city sights, visiting the Atomium, a building shaped like a giant molecule, the Royal Palace, the Porte de Hal gate tower, and a restaurant famed for its dishes of steaming mussels.
After I remarked that we had barely had a chance to take advantage of the city's culinary delights, Jorge told me that the previous day he had spent time in the city's chocolate shops and food packaging factories. He had also managed to spend time with a family in their apartment. I was amazed and couldn't wait to see his photographs.
Back in London the next day, we met at Jorge's place in the evening to check out his portfolio. He wanted my help in choosing which picture would become the 'signature image' of his presentation to the examiners. One by one he laid out the 12 prints he had selected. Three of the pictures I recognised: the old man with the red flowers, a soldier peering through the beaded curtains, a smiling buxom waitress serving a bowl of mussels.
The other photographs were new to me: a bird flying over the European Union flag with the city skyline in the background, a chocolatier with a praline chocolate shell covering each eye, a dark-skinned man carving a block of ice into a swan and a grinning beggar admiring the molecular Atomium building.
His final choice for the signature image was between two startling pictures. One was of an elegant-looking woman, dressed in a green coat, fur hat and orange running shoes and riding a bicycle, stopping to buy a steaming hot drink from a pavement vendor. In the background, is a historic-looking building with the first five letters of the word, Bruxelles, emblazoned across the front.
The second image showed young girls dancing and playing in a park fountain. Watching on the one side is an old man, with a small European Union flag hanging from his pocket. On the other side, a young woman pushing a pram (with a dog tied to it), is walking away from the fountain. After much discussion, we chose the fountain picture, which looks joyful at first glance, but is strangely disturbing.
I begged Jorge to let me use the pictures to illustrate my article, but they remain under wraps until they go on exhibition later this year. I am certain he will pass with distinction. I have served him notice that I am ready for his first professional assignment after he graduates. Brussels was cool - now I am ready to tackle the rest of the globe.
For other articles on European countries, go to our archive.
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