Valencia Sails On
Valencia Sails On
by Peter Graham
by Peter Graham
Valencia has always been known for its beaches, oranges and paella. However, that is likely to change as the city gears up to host the final of the America's Cup next year. The cup is, of course, the world's most sought-after yachting trophy, which sends the winning nation into throes of ecstasy and brings billionaire yacht owners to their knees.
Valencia beat highly favoured rivals (Lisbon in Portugal, Marseille in France and Naples in Italy) to stage the race after the trophy was sensationally won in 2003 by a team from landlocked Switzerland. As the winner and the first European team to win the cup in 150 years, it was their right to host the next cup.
I was immediately intrigued. I know that yachting in general, and the America's Cup in particular, attracts very wealthy and well-travelled fans. What was it that Valencia had to offer? My interest was further raised when I read about a huge and inspirational building project known as the City of Arts and Sciences. Clearly, Valencia was on the rise and I wanted to see it for myself.
My final nudge came when I read the best-selling book, The Da Vinci Code, part of which is set in Valencia. The city's magnificent cathedral, a mix of Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles, is supposedly the home of the Holy Grail, a tantalising lure for the millions who have read Dan Brown's fascinating book.
Unfortunately, none of my nearest and dearest shared my passion to discover Spain's third-largest city. When they set their hearts on a murder mystery weekend in a country castle, I had the opportunity to get away by myself. After travelling with friends and partners for so many years, it was strangely unnerving as well as liberating to be able to make arrangements to suit only myself. I could stay where I wanted and go where I wanted...but did I really know what I wanted?
I decided to do it in style, but go the bargain route. I would buy a business class ticket (from a discount travel agent, of course) and stay in the best hotel (booked on HotelTravel.com, of course). On a cold, wintry Friday night, I arrived at Valencia Airport for a solo weekend of discovery.
Although the Monte Picayo Hotel, which lies in splendid gardens outside of the city with a magnificent view over the Mediterranean, had been recommended as the city's best, I opted for the Melia Valencia Palace Hotel, which is located in the heart of the city. With only three days to explore, I wanted to be in the heart of the action. The hotel is next to the Turia River Gardens and alongside the Music Palace and close to the beach - just perfect for me.
After an early night with room service dinner (a rare luxury for me), I was up early on Saturday to begin my explorations. I had booked a tour of the City of Arts and Sciences, Europe's largest leisure complex. This white futuristic cityscape of huge modern buildings is the work of famous local architect Santiago Calatrava.
The complex, which is 2,5 kilometres long, consists of four different but related parts: the Arts Centre, Science Museum, planetarium and Ocean Park. Although it is seen as the set piece of Valencia's post-modern architectural renaissance, the shell-like structures are controversial and not to everyone's tastes.
Some of today's most famous structures - like the Eiffel Tower and the Opera House in Sydney Harbour - were all bitterly derided when first built and it took some time for them to become the much-loved symbols that they are today. I would think there's a fair chance that the same fate awaits one of more these buildings.
In the afternoon I took a stroll through the city centre, passing the Ayuntamiento (town council) and the correos (main post office). I headed towards the Plaza de la Reina, a large square which leads to the historic Old Quarter and the Barrio del Carmen neighbourhood. Here the palaces have been restored and turned into upmarket restaurants, bars and cafes.
Walking along the narrow, cobble-stoned streets I thought back to the period of Arab domination of the city and wondered at the many people who had passed along this route before me. I am always fascinated by the old parts of cities, because they give you a glimpse of the heart of the city.
Valencia's old quarter is marked off by tram and cable car tracks, which stand where the old walls of the city were until 1865. Within this oval area are most of the city's historical monuments, including the fascinating Cathedral of "Da Vinci Code" fame. I joined a group on an official Da Vinci tour. I could have spent the whole weekend here, exploring the alleyways where tradesmen honed their craft and townsfolk gathered on important occasions.
However, I was eager to get to the port area, where most of the multi-million dollar renovations for the race are taking place. The first sign of the changes is the transformation of the "Avenida del Puerto", a six-kilometre street connecting the centre of town to the sea. It is being transformed into a giant, five-lane, one-way road to the harbour. New palm trees sway in the wind and exciting new restaurants and shops are springing up alongside some of the oldest, traditional eateries.
The purpose-built Port America's Cup links a new marina directly to the race course, with 600 new yacht berths. Half of those will be in operation later this month when the preliminary rounds of the event take place, while the 50 Superyacht berths already built in the middle of the port will be taken as the well-heeled come to town.
The city of 800,000 people is spending US$360 million on the event. The authorities believe the event will establish the city as one of Europe's top destinations in the same way that the Olympics boosted Barcelona. With all the building taking place while I was there, I needed a little imagination to visualise the end results. Valencians, though, have no doubt that it will unleash a flood of visitors. They say numbers are already up as the inquisitive (like me) are attracted to the city.
Everywhere I went, I was told that the best time to visit is during the Las Fallas festivals in late March, when the city is taken over by the sound of musical groups and fireworks and climaxes with the burning of hundreds of enormous papier-mache figures. Another good time to visit is for the Festival La Tomatina in August. Although the annual event has no religious significance and was only started in 1945, the festival sees in excess of 30,000 people hurling 240,000 pounds of tomatoes at each other and is one of Spain's most famous events.
On my last day, I took an early morning stroll through the city and then headed off for the other "must see" attractions: the extravagant facade of the baroque Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas, with its artworks by El Greco and Goya, and the Museo de Bellas Artes.
However, the highlight of the day was a visit to one of the city's three beaches. I caught a tram to La Malvarroso and, in one of the traditional seafront restaurants, enjoyed a bowl of paella, the city’s most famous dish. Looking out over the families having picnics and enjoying the open air provided a startling contrast to the glitzy portside action along the coast. Both are part of the allure of the new Valencia and, hopefully, both will survive.
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