There really is no better way to see the attractions of Bangkok than from the river; nearly every major tourist site is accessible from it and a lot more besides. Not only that - you can avoid the polluted and noisy main thoroughfares and the oppressive heat caused by acres of concrete. Above all, it’s astoundingly cheap; a couple of stops will set you back 8 Baht (20 cents) whilst a day-pass with unlimited stops sets you back 70 Baht ($1.75). Note: For a map of Bangkok including all the river piers, skytrain stations and hotels mentioned in this article click here.

As the boat chugged slowly away down the river I got to see the backyard of Bangkok. The leisurely pace of life on the water juxtaposes neatly with the towering high-rises of the city centre; wooden stilt houses sliding into the water yet piled high with gaily coloured pot plants, young lads jumping naked into the water, rickety houseboats and ornate Chinese temples.

Not long after leaving the pier I spied the pastel Venetian front of the East Asiatic Company’s headquarters, adjacent to the Shangri-La Hotel. Behind this was the rococo spire of the Assumption Cathedral, one of several Catholic structures built by the Portuguese, including the gothic Holy Rosary and Santa Cruz Churches which can be found near the River City Pier.

Our first major stop was the Oriental, which sits trying to out-stare the grandiose Peninsula Hotel opposite. The Peninsula has an exclusive lounge near the Shangri-La Pier where you can wait for the picturesque wooden shuttle boat. The Oriental and Peninsula both boast fantastic riverside terrace restaurants, ideal for river-watching whilst catching a bite to eat. If you’d rather have your dinner on the river, I can recommend the Yok Yor Restaurant, opposite the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel.

Most of the riverside hotels organise trips down the nearby khlongs or canals, which offers an even more intimate view of the “City of Angels” – Khlong Bangkok Noi is a favourite and offers ancient Buddhist temples, the Taling Chan floating market at weekends (the inter-boat juggling of fruit, money and people makes for a riot of smells and colours) and the cavernous Royal Barge Museum.

Next up was Ratchawongse Pier, which offers convenient access to the centre of Chinatown, a must for shopaholics hunting for precious metals, stones and antiques. Whilst in Chinatown, make sure you stop off at one of the fabulous dim-sum restaurants, the Shangri-la on Yaowarat Road is especially authentic, with its raucous Chinese families, distressed waitresses and tottering piles of bamboo steamers filled with delicious rice and prawn concoctions. However, I remained on the boat and fought a battle of wills with the aroma of crispy duck until we departed.

My destination on that day was Tha Tien Pier, opposite Wat Arun, or the temple of the Golden Dawn, a shimmering mirage of gilded stupas and intricately sculpted porcelain towers. I attempted to alight without pushing a gaggle of Korean tourists into the river, and found myself in a covered shopping area. Stalls of fresh fruit, coffee shops and a cobbler were quickly passed and I emerged into the sunshine outside the fortified walls of Wat Pho. Note: please ignore any ‘friendly’ locals who inform you that the Wat is shut, it is not, they hope to steer you into their Tuk-tuk cabs and whisk you away to a relative’s shop! More Thailand travel tips...

Wat Pho is perhaps Thailand’s most visited landmark, and rightly so. The oldest temple in Bangkok, Wat Pho houses one of the wonders of Thailand, the 46 metre long reclining Buddha. As I entered the immense hall which houses this massive depiction of the Buddha attaining nirvana, I was arrested by the sheer beauty of something so ungainly. It’s hard to take in; his head lost in the beams of the building, his body reduced to an exercise in perspective.

Ironically, the crowning glory is the feet, in Buddhist ideology the least holy part of the body; here I marvelled at the intricacy of the in-laid mother of pearl ideograms depicting the 108 symbolic attributes of the Buddha. Amongst the surreal collection are peacocks, elephants, flowers, fish, landscapes and the ever-present Naga, serpentine protector of the Buddha.

After wandering around Wat Pho’s beautiful reliquaries and peaceful gardens, I headed on foot to the Grand Palace; the variety of 18th century Thai architecture here was a visual feast. The palace area’s highlight, Wat Phra Kaew (the Temple of the Emerald Buddha) was stuffed with pilgrims waving incense and lotus flowers, and was a bit stifling. The actual statue was a bit of a let-down too, as it’s only about 30 cm high and hard to make out. However, the glittering golden edifice which contains it was awe inspiring. To get my breath back, I headed for the cloister which surrounds the temple. Here I found fascinating murals depicting the story of the Ramakian, a Hindu love-saga full of demons and heroes.

I hopped back on the boat at Tha Chang Pier and zigzagged across the river, finally stopping at Phra Athit Pier, which provides river access to the backpacker haven, Khao San Road, and the rest of Banglamphu. After the bustle of the main tourist area it was nice to wander down to the small, leafy park which surrounds one of the last remaining river fortresses, Phra Sumen, and sit watching life unfold on the waterfront. By exploring the Chao Phraya, the canals and riverside attractions by boat you get an insight into the Bangkok that used to be known as “the Venice of the East”.

Note: For those wanting to explore the river further it is possible to take a trip as far as historic Ayutthaya, famous for its crumbling temples, interesting museums and a stone Buddha’s head wrapped in a tree-trunk. Various boats make either day trips or 2 day packages; by far the most elegant of the latter is the Manohra 2, a luxury barge with 4 rooms, en suite with hot showers, air-con, sun decks, saloon bar and onboard chef. The Boat starts from the Marriott Royal Garden Riverside hotel, but pick ups can be arranged from most waterfront hotels. For more info please phone +66 (0) 2477 0770 or visit www.manohracruises.com.

A shorter daytrip can be made on Sundays at 8am from Tha Maharaj Pier to Bang Pa-In, a delightful 19th Century summer palace with cool pavilions and a comprehensive collection of Chinese antiques. The boat also stops off at a handicrafts centre, a bird sanctuary and Wat Nivet, a curious cross between a neo-gothic church and Thai temple. For bookings and more info please call the Chao Phraya Express Boat company on +66 (0) 2623-6143.

Finally, for those interested in all things macabre, there’s the Forensic Museum in the Siriraj Hospital complex. Here you can find skeletons, the bloody shirts of stab wound victims, ropes used in hangings, and the preserved body of notorious child murderer Si Quey; not for the faint-hearted! Also in the Siriraj complex: the Pathology Museum, the Parisitology Museum, the Anatomical Museum and the History of Thai Medicine Museum. To get there take the boat to Wang Lang Pier (also called Phra Nok Pier) and opposite the Maharaj pier, walk through the little arcade, head down the main road until you reach a T-junction and then turn right; the foyer for the hospital is about 20m on your right. NB: Entrance is free but the museums are closed on Saturday.