Online Travel Magazine
Issue: April 2008
London, England
Art London
by Lilly Whitehead
It took a few piles of rice to get me interested in art. Sounds strange, I know. I was in London and steadfastly refusing to join my friends on their visits to the various art galleries. "The art is amazing," they promised me, "and you don't even have to pay to get in." I steadfastly resisted, far happier to spend my time lolling around in Green Park or strolling through Camden Market.
Then I read about the finalists in the Turner Prize, an annual competition for contemporary art. The competition is usually highly controversial because of the rather whacky finalists. Two that really got the British art scene in a twitter was a shark in formaldehyde by Damien Hirst and a dishevelled bed by Tracey Emin. See what I mean?
As the holiday wore on, I kept reading about the competition in the newspapers. The most controversial entry that year, 1993, consisted of long rows of rice topped by neon tubes. Created by Laos-born Vong Phaophanit, it was titled "Neon Rice Field". Public reaction was heated. One morning while having tea on Islington High Street (a great place to linger), I overheard a group of students discussing the merits of the rice entry. Their verdicts ranged from "absolute rubbish" to "it has the most amazing smell" and "I have never seen anything like it".
I was fascinated. I had to see the work for myself. So the next day, with my surprised friends in tow, we set off to see the "ricefield". I was stunned - it certainly did have a strong smell, but the glow of the pink neon on the rice was unbelievably warm and comforting. I was hooked, and, ever since, I always include a visit to an art gallery or two when I visit. The best part of this is that there is no entrance fee.
The trick about enjoying a gallery, I have learnt, is not to try to do too much. Check out any special exhibitions that are on, but don't try to see everything on one visit to London . The best is not to spend more than a morning or an afternoon in a gallery - in that way you will appreciate what you have seen. I am not an authority on fine art, but I have spent enough time in London’s main galleries to pass on a tip or two.
Tate Modern, Bankside
The first thing you'll notice about the Tate Modern is the architecture - it's housed in a former power station. It's on the south bank of the Thames, with a small bridge giving you direct access from the other side. Inside is the world's largest collection of modern art. The layout and juxtaposition of the century's best works is startling, although not everyone appreciates the starkness of this modern facility. There's certainly nothing lacking on the art front, though.
The gallery displays the national collection of international modern art, which is defined as art since 1900. Collections include masterpieces by Picasso, Andy Warhol, Matisse, Dali, Lichtenstein and Miro, and there is a room devoted entired to Rothko. On weekends it is open until 10pm and there's a fun catamaran which takes you down the river to the Tate Britain, passing some great sights on the way.
Tate Britain, Millbank
Like the Modern, the history and location of Tate Britain is interesting. It was carved out of the old Tate Gallery, which was once the site of a prison. It is on the north bank of the Thames, overlooking the headquarters of Britain's Intelligence Services next to Victoria Bridge. This gallery is considered the home of British art, and consequently houses the largest display of the nation's work under one roof.
Among the artists with significant displays are Turner, Bacon, Blake, Constable and Gainsborough. It is also the home of the Turner Prize exhibition, which I never miss. However, it remains controversial and a guide book I read recently described it as "designed to shock" and says "don't judge Tate Britain by this rubbish". I beg to disagree!
The National Gallery, Trafalgar Square
Set in Trafalgar Square, the National Gallery has become a landmark building in its own right. You can't miss it and neither should you. This is Britain's most famous gallery and houses one of the greatest collections of Western European paintings. Founded in 1824, it has over 2300 paintings dating from the mid-13th Century. These range from Early Renaissance to Post-impressionism. You don't have to know what these terms mean to enjoy the displays - just know that the artworks are pretty expensive.
I have selected three must-view works of art, which draw the crowds much like the Mona Lisa does at the Louvre in Paris. The first is 'Sunflowers' by Vincent Van Gogh, dated 1888 and priceless in value. The second work is Venus and Mars by Sandro Boticelli, and the final piece is titled 'Bathers' (Les Grandes Baigneuses) by Paul Cezanne, showing a groups of female bathers. These paintings are so famous that most people, even those with a very limited interest in art, will recognise them.
National Portrait Gallery
Opposite the Church of St Martin-in-the-Fields, to the north of Trafalgar Square, you will find the National Portrait Gallery. As one might expect, it houses portraits of some of the most famous people to have strode the globe. There are plenty of Kings and Queens and other historical figures, but is surprisingly up to date. Besides the most famous painting of William Shakespeare, the Chandos portrait, you could easily find a photograph of a Hollywood star of today.
Portraits of the living were allowed from 1969 and selection is done based on the fame of the pictured, not the artist. On exhibition until May 26, 2008 is the Vanity Fair Portraits exhibition, which classic images from the magazine. Most interesting for me were the photographic portraits which made their mark after the magazine's relaunch in 1983. This gallery continues to grow, and you can expect some exciting changes in the future. In January the gallery received its largest single donation to date, a five million pound gift from US billionaire Randy Lerner. Watch this space.
To read more about London, go to our archive
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