Cliffs and Caves

Cliffs and Caves
by Sheldon Tills
by Sheldon Tills

You should meet my friend Mike. He looks like a regular guy, but he's actually a walking, talking “world wide web” when it comes to travel. When it comes to advice on virtually any matter related to holidays or tourism, Mike will have the answer. Want to know the funkiest bar in Barcelona? Where to stay in Beijing? How much to pay for coffee in Budapest? He'll screw up his face and then deliver his words of wisdom. So, when it came to deciding where to go for our family holiday this year, we knew where to turn.

We wanted a spot in southeast Asia where my wife and I would be able to relax with our two young children for ten days. Our requirements were simple: "We want a quiet resort with good beaches, decent restaurants, a relaxing environment and no shopping malls or package tourists." Mike thought for a while. "Don't kid me that you really want to go back to nature!" he taunted. "After a few days you'll be looking for some nightlife and Julie will be searching for the nearest shopping market. " He closed his eyes for a few moments and then grinned: "I suggest Krabi in Thailand ."

I had never heard of Krabi, so I headed for my computer to check it out on the internet and make bookings. Krabi is situated on the mainland of southern Thailand , across the bay of the Andaman Sea from the more famous island of Phuket. I read that Krabi was growing as a travel destination, but that large-scale tourism had yet to arrive. One description stuck with me: "It's a lot like Halong Bay in Vietnam and Guilin in China, with large limestone formations sticking out of the sea. However, there are less tourists and it can boast some of the world's best beaches." I was sold.

A month later we were in paradise. Krabi was everything the guidebooks had promised; awesome scenery and excellent facilities in a relaxed, small-town environment. We stayed at the Golden Beach Resort in Ao Nang, about 20 kilometres west of Krabi Town. Our hotel overlooked the wide bay with limestone cliffs to either side and islands glimmering in the distance. What a setting for a hotel!

We soon discovered that Ao Nang is a great place to stay, as many of the boat trips to surrounding islands (there are 83!) depart from this beach. After dinner that evening, we met a traveller from Norway, who suggested we take a trip to neighbouring Railay Beach the next day. “It has been voted the most beautiful beach in the world and you'll see why,” she told us.

Railay (also spelled Rai Leh) is truly spectacular. Although located on the mainland, it is accessible only by boat, a 15-minute trip by longtail from the beach outside our hotel. The peninsula of Railay, surrounded by lush jungle and towering cliffs, has become famous around the globe for rock-climbing. We watched as groups of climbers set off on their quests for adventure. I chatted to one of the guides, who said there were climbs for the inexperienced, which were more like forest hikes with fixed ropes at steeper points. However, I resisted, opting for a swim in the warm sea instead.

Just around the corner, connected to Railay by a small path, is Phra Nang Beach. Situated on the point of the headland, a limestone cliff soars above the beach. Set close to this is the five star Rayavadee Premier Resort, where the rich and famous come to relax in total seclusion.We could only glimpse the luxury pavilions through the shady coconut groves, but it's certainly one of the most exclusive hideaways in the world.

We were content to spend the afternoon swimming and snorkelling in the bay. We also took a stroll to Princess Cave, which lies at the bottom of the cliff. This is where the spirit of a princess allegedly resides and she watches out for local fishermen. As a result, the cave is filled with offerings left by fisherman to ensure their good fortune.

After enjoying the solitude of the beaches, it seemed bizarre that a few hours later we would be drinking French wine as we dined at a restaurant on the Ao Nang beachfront. This short stretch of road along the beach is home to dozens of restaurants, bars, internet cafes and shops – the perfect antidote to days on deserted beaches. Thai and Italian restaurants abound – and nearby there is even a new McDonalds outlet, a sure sign that major development is coming. For late night entertainment, there is an arcade of bars known as Centrepoint, which keeps going until the wee hours.

There are many tours and sidetrips to choose from. You can head off to Phi-Phi, Lanta Islands or one of the many other smaller islands in the Andaman Sea, and you can also try your hand at jungle trekking, sea-kayaking, scuba diving, elephant riding or mountain biking. We chose a trip through Phang Nga Bay to James Bond Island , the famous limestone island which featured in the movie: "The Man with the Golden Gun", starring Roger Moore. After touring the island, with its signature rocky pinnacle, we had a delicious lunch at a nearby Muslim village built on stilts in the water.

We also visited Tiger Cave temple (Wat Tham Sua), just outside Krabi Town. This small temple is built inside a long shallow limestone cave, surrounded by natural forest. A famous meditation centre with 250 resident monks, it takes its name from a stone formation nearby which resembles a tiger's claw. If you are fit, you can climb the 1200 stairs which lead to the top of the mountain for a superb view.
On the second last day of our trip, we hired a jeep and set off to set to investigate the area around Ao Nang. After stopping at a few roadside stalls, buying some great pottery and silk scarves, we ended up at Muang Klong beach.

This is the upmarket area of Krabi, with five star resorts and boutique hotels. Unlike Ao Nang it doesn't have the impressive cliffs immediately towering over the beach, but it does have powder white sand and safe swimming. We stopped at the Sheraton Krabi Resort, a big hotel set back from the beach, where we enjoyed afternoon tea on the verandah overlooking the manicured tropical gardens. A kilometre or two down the road we passed two truly spectacular resort hotels, the Nakamanda and the Tubkaak Resort. If my wife and I decide on a second honeymoon, we know where we will go.
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