Handicrafts of Indonesia

Handicrafts of Indonesia
by Tim Gladwin
by Tim Gladwin

For many tourists, Indonesia equates to little more than the small island of Bali, an incredible reality considering it is an archipelago of nearly 13,700 islands, which together are home to nearly 250 million people. But nevertheless, a high proportion of overseas visitors simply head for this tropical paradise with its celebrated coastline where clean powerful surf meets long sandy beaches and its spectacular interior where majestic rice paddies decorate hillsides and breathtaking volcanoes soar into the clouds. No surprise, then, that Bali is so popular. The odd thing is that so few wishing to experience this most remarkable of countries ever venture further afield.

One aspect of Indonesian life, in Bali and beyond, that holds fascination for people from all corners of the globe is the way art is embraced in the country’s culture. This manifests itself in many diverse forms prevalent throughout the country, each with ties to one or more of the 300-plus ethnic groups. Of particular interest to visitors and overseas buyers alike is the wealth of handicrafts that can be found throughout the islands.

Indonesian art is typically strong in symbolism, with myriad influences that have been derived from religions and cultures far and wide. Historically, the primary sources for new ideas were traders, who have long been drawn to the Indonesian islands for the spices that made the area so sought after by Dutch colonialists. Images carved into wood, painted onto canvas or printed onto material often reflect battles between good and evil, tales of love and war.

Travel across this most stretched of countries offers a wealth of opportunities, for those so inclined, to find no end of interesting handicrafts. However, even for those holidaymakers who don’t venture beyond Bali, in terms of art, it is very much a microcosm of the whole country. Traditionally, each person was expected to develop artistic skills and the best artists remain some of the most highly respected members of society. Carving of both wood and stone, weaving and painting are all remarkably common and invariably undertaken with great skill. It has been an interesting consequence of the wonderfully fertile Balinese earth that the members of traditional farming communities have always found themselves with plenty of spare time on their hands with which to perfect their skills as craftsmen.

The period between mid June and mid July each year bears witness to the Bali Arts Festival, making it a wonderful time to visit this principally Hindu enclave. Daily performances, exhibitions and other cultural events display perfectly the colour, charm and warmth, not to mention the artistic skills of the Balinese people. It is a fantastic opportunity to cast your eye over the wide variety of intricately fashioned handicrafts produced across the length and breadth of the island.
However, while the festival makes viewing the wares of Bali’s many villages hugely convenient by bringing them all together, you shouldn’t let it discourage you from touring at least a little of the island. To do so would be to miss out on some truly captivating scenery and some memorable experiences shopping at source for those keepsakes that will continue to remind you of this most spiritual of holiday islands for years to come.

As one would expect, there is no shortage of willing vendors seeking to sell the handicrafts for which Bali is famous. However, some of the street hawkers, and particularly those in Kuta, can sometimes be too much, both in number and in terms of their overly aggressive sales techniques. My advice is to be polite and reply to their approaches with a firm, uninterested “No thank you.” Do nothing to encourage them because once they have any reason to believe that you may be interested they will become all the more insistent and all the harder to shake off.

As the major tourist centre, Kuta will always attract plenty of visiting shoppers, but similar handicrafts can be found in Denpasar and in particular along Jalan Gajah Mada, although without the constantly pestering hawkers. You can also expect far less in the way of unwanted hawker attention at the Sanur Art Market (Pasar Seni), which should not be confused with Sanur’s Beach Market. Between Sanur and Denpasar, you will find Sanggraha Kriya Asti, a government managed handicrafts centre which is also worth a visit.

For handicraft connoisseurs, the Denpasar to Ubud road is not to be missed. Ubud is generally regarded as Bali’s artistic centre as well as a simply delightful place to visit, but the road there from the island’s capital city is arguably even more interesting. Essentially, it is a twenty kilometre stretch of shops, stalls and markets, selling all sorts of handicrafts and antiques. The route passes through small villages such as Batubulan, Celuk and Mas. Batubulan is famous for its stone carving industry, while many of Bali’s best goldsmiths and silversmiths call Celuk their home. Mas, on the other hand is famous for its woodcarvers and, as well as being a great place to buy a piece or two, it also offers plenty of opportunity to see the craftsmen at work. In each of the villages, it is generally a good idea to venture off the main road a little in order to find the best bargains.

Bali and the rest of Indonesia is truly a handicraft shopper's paradise, with so many amazing potential purchases at hugely attractive prices. But, it is certainly not the only place in East Asia of which that can be said. Neighbouring Malaysia has a great deal in common with Indonesia in both this and other respects and the up-coming “Handicrafts Exotica Fiesta” at the Sabah Museum in Kota Kinabalu, which will take place between 2nd – 29th May, will be a great opportunity to see the kind of artistry the country has to offer. The event will showcase over thirty traditional ethnic crafts and will include both demonstrations and clinics in the museum’s Heritage Village.
Don’t miss this chance to both see these countries and take home something unique and truly artistic when you visit this month. You certainly won’t regret it!
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