The going got harder; less oxygen, fatigue and our over-stuffed backpacks made our pace increasingly slovenly, unlike the locals who persisted in bounding on cheerfully, carrying gas cylinders and other supplies which we presumed were for the guesthouses further up. Before we gave up for the day we took a peek at the Paka Cave, at about 3200 metres, just off the main trail. More of an overhang than a cave, our guide explained that whilst it might not look like much, it had historical significance as the resting place of Hugh Low, a British botanist who attempted to reach the summit in 1851.

After an early night we were woken at the ungodly hour of 2am by our guide, determined as we were, to see sunrise over Borneo. After breakfast with our groggy fellow adventurers, we set off in the freezing darkness, torch beams zigzagging the barren mountainside. This was when the real climbing came in, and I was glad of the 2 months backpacking which had shaped up my deskbound muscles. From this point on it was nearly all ladders and ropes and we were both glad we’d brought insulated gloves and head-mounted torches. Climbing the ladders in the dark was tricky work and slow, as whenever someone stopped above for a rest, so did everyone else. Then we were hauling ourselves up ropes over an escarpment and finally fell gasping, into the Sayat-sayat way-station huts.

The silence was broken as a spontaneous cheer broke out as the sun cleaved itself from the horizon. Although hard going at times, we’d managed to climb South East Asia’s highest peak, and the sense of achievement stayed with me on the way down. It’s one of those trips you don’t need a camera to remember; the experience will stay indelibly etched on my brain for years to come.

Notes:
If you’d prefer a solitary experience you can avoid the rush and the hanging around on ladders by waiting for the dawn lovers to get back at about 6am; the sunrise is apparently just as pretty from Laban Rata, although you don’t get the 360 degree version. Always check ahead (preferably from Kota Kinabalu) to see what the weather has in stall; overcast, windy or rainy weather can make the going a lot tougher and the view disappointing.

The Kinabalu Challenge, organised by UK charity Raleigh International, is held twice a year and involves races through jungles, rivers, mountains and seas. This year the first section will be held between April the 22nd and May 1st 2004.

The Kinabalu Climbathon, 2nd -3rd October 2004, is in its 18th year and has become the deciding race in the Skyrunning World Championship.