Online Travel Magazine
Issue: March 2008
Scotland - March
World of Tartan
by Peter Graham
I love Scotland. In fact, I can't see how anyone visiting this marvellous country could not instantly fall in love with it. It's packed with tradition, the people are amazingly marvellous friendly and it's so scenically beautiful that it is one of the world's great travel destinations. As a regular visitor, I always find something new to see and never fail to come back with entertaining anecdotes and experiences.
Over the years I have been lost in a castle, woken up on the floor of a country pub, won a tea tasting competition, spent hours staring at Loch Ness, played the bagpipes at dawn, acted in a Glasgow theatre, taken a tour of whisky distilleries that lasted five days and spent a week in an isolated farmhouse with only a dog for company.
Yes, I know Scotland as only a loyal fan can. However, I am happy to pass on advice on the best things to do in this great country. I can't guarantee that you will end up in some of the strange situations I have found myself in (nor would you want to!) But I can assure you that if your attitude is right, you will have a great time. Here are my top six things to do in the land of the kilt:
1. Wander through the Queen's chambers
Not only can you check out the Queen's official palace in Edinburgh, you can also check out her floating bedroom. When The Queen is on official business, her Scottish home is the Palace of Holyroodhouse, situated at the bottom of the Royal Mile. The Queen always spends a week there at the beginning of summer and other royals are regular visitors. When one of them is staying over, all visits are off. And when the Royal Standard is flying from the flagpole, you definitely won't get in - that means the Queen is in residence.
But that's no problem - you can always head north to the port of Leith and tour the Royal Yacht Britannia, where it is berthed. Decommissioned in 1997, the Queen used the vessel for state occasions and private holidays (most notably for the honeymoon of Prince Charles and Princess Diana). Get an audio handset, available in 17 languages, and traipse around the five decks.
2. Learn how to drink whisky
First of all, you must remember that the Scots spell whisky without an "e" - whiskey is either Irish and American. And, as any Scotsman will tell you, they are not the same. Find out why at the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre in Edinburgh. You'll discover the difference between single malt and blended whisky, and you'll get a guide to the different whisky-producing regions.
You'll be shown the correct glass to use and how to drink it correctly. Then you will be faced with a choice of 270 brands. After this, you'll be ready to go on a whisky trail. Many famous distilleries welcome visitors and it's a great way to see the countryside and meet entertaining locals. And you'll know just the right way to slug it back when you have to.
3. Go Nessie-hunting
If you go down to Loch Ness, there's a monster waiting for you - or so millions of visitors hope each year. Ever since the first dragon-like creature was allegedly spotted in 1871, the legend of the Loch Ness Monster has fascinated the world. The most famous encounter was in 1961, when 30 hotel guests reportedly saw Nessie in the lake.
Since then all manner of badly-developed photos, shadows and smoke have masquerated as "the real thing". It's all documented in the visitors centre at Drumnadrochit. Despite the limited chance there is of actually spotting the beast, the scenery is stunning and the atmosphere among the 'hunters' is infectious. Just remember, if you can prove Nessie exists, a London bookmaker will pay you one million pounds.
4. Run on famous sand
If you are a fan of the movie "Chariots of Fire" you won't forget the opening scene with the British Olympic team training on the beach. Well, here's your chance to recreate it where it was filmed. Head for West Sands Beach at St Andrews. There you will find the two-mile stretch of beach backed by sand dunes. The weather may not play along, but you will get the opportunity to experience a quintessential Scottish landscape and chat with hardy Scots taking a stroll or walking their dogs.
5. Play golf where it all started
It is every golfer’s dream to play a round on the world-famous Old Course at St Andrews, regarded as the home of golf. If you haven't booked a year in advance, you can enter a daily lottery to win a chance to play. If you don’t make it, opt for a round on the world’s oldest course. That’s the Musselburgh Old Links course, where Mary Queen of Scots is reputed to have played a round in 1567.
Wherever you are, you will discover that Scotland is mad about golf - and they are forever taking bets on it. Here are two useful bits of information that could win you a round of drinks: the word golf comes from Gentlemen Only Ladies Forbidden (that’s true) and there are 336 dimples on a regular golf ball.
6. Try haggis… or mince and tatties
Haggis is the national dish. Made with minced sheep's organs (heart, liver and lungs) and beef, it is traditionally boiled in the sheep's stomach for an hour. Sounds terrible, but tastes great. Other things to try include the nation's favourite biscuit, shortbread, oatmeal porridge for breakfast and Arboath smokie, delicious line-caught haddock cured over smouldering oak chips.
Some dishes have really strange names like Forfar Bridie (a meat pastry), Cock-a-leekie (soup), Crappit heid (fish dish), Finnan haddie (haddock fish), Cullen Skink (haddock soup), Partan bree (seafood dish) and mince and tatties (minced meat and potatoes).
If you want to treat yourself to fine fare, have fish and chips (drowning in brown sauce and vinegar) from Anstruther Fish Bar on the Anstruther harbour front, voted the best in the land. Or pop into Fish and Donaldsonr in St Andrews for a custard slice. It's been around since 1919 and still regarded the best patisserie in Scotland.
That’s my list of favourites, but there’s tons more to do. You can meet the maddest people on the planet during the Edinburgh Fringe Festival; party at Arta, Glasgow's top nightspot; visit the village where Paisley print originated; buy a traditional kilt and save on underwear and read a poem in the thatched cottage where Robert Burns was born. You can also learn to play the bagpipes, take part in the Highland Games in a village, visit one of 660 uninhabited islands or do a ghost tour in Edinburgh. Scotland is truly amazing.
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