The opening of the Hilton Millennium balances out the five-star quotient on the two banks of the river. Both sides will now have three luxury five-star hotels. The east bank, closest to the CBD, boasts the Oriental, the Shangri-La and the Royal Orchid Sheraton, while the west bank, which has the best views of the city skyline, has the Peninsula, the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa and, now, the Millennium Hilton.

All 543 bedrooms in the Hilton have spectacular river views. The top floors have a 360-degree panorama over the city skyline, with those lower down offering a closer look at the rag-tag of barges, long-tail boats and luxury cruisers that ply the waterway each day. The hotel boasts a 50-metre wide river frontage, dominated by a 20-metre infinity-edge swimming pool that seemingly drips over the edge of the building into the Chao Phraya River.

To give business guests easier access to the city, the hotel has a reception area on the eastern side of the river in the River City complex, with taxis and limousine transport available. Guests can check in here and then travel by boat to the hotel's private pontoon on the other bank.

The 12-storey honeycomb atrium lobby is encased in glass, framed by multiple layers of gleaming pools. To one side of the lobby stands a two-storey spa built to resemble a contemporary Thai sala. Centred round a huge, centuries-old Banyan tree, The Spa provides an urban retreat from the bustle outside. Each of the ten treatment rooms overlooks the venerated tree and therein captures the spiritual heart of the Thai people.

Guest rooms are fresh and contemporary, with accents from Thai culture surfacing in golden lacquer and wooden panels. Besides the picture postcard views, all rooms have open plan bathrooms, high-speed internet access and in-room safes.

The hotel is sure to become a new hub of the Bangkok dining scene, with seven restaurants. These include a contemporary Chinese restaurant, a signature steakhouse, a sophisticated jazz lounge, a bar-nightclub and an all-day restaurant. Directly overlooking the river is a poolside restaurant and an alfresco tea room

The Hilton is the new kid on the block, but it faces stiff competition from the other five-stars along the river. Its neighbour to the right is the Peninsula Hotel, a gleaming 39-storey palace with a helicopter landing pad on the roof. Guests are ferried to and from the hotel in a fleet of Rolls Royce and Mercedes Benz limousines. Its magnificent rooms and suites make it a regular choice as the best hotel in Asia and it was recently voted the best in the world.

Across the river from that is the Oriental, which has the most envied reputation and history of any hotel in Thailand. Established in 1876, it became the home of notable authors such as Joseph Conrad, Somerset Maugham, John le Carre, Noel Coward and James Michener. A recent guest was soccer star David Beckham.

The hotel exudes an old-world charm and sophistication and attracts the city's most upmarket clientele to its fine restaurants. Most guests remark on the attentive staff, headed up by the same general manager for the past 33 years. Even if you aren't staying here, don't miss the evening barbecue or the afternoon tea.

A short distance down the river is the Shangri-La. From the moment you enter this massive hotel, you are likely to be charmed. The marble lobby with its massive crystal chandeliers is palatial and the floor-to-ceiling windows in the lounge give you a superb view of the river. This is the place to take afternoon tea.

Accommodation is in two wings and its location next to a skytrain station gives it an edge on its rivals when it comes to transport. You can also board one of the cruises up the river here. A swimming pool is set in tropical gardens, with the remarkable tranquility and stillness only interrupted by the puttering of passing boats.

On the same side of the river, the Bangkok Marriott Resort and Spa is praised by leisure travellers for its quiet, garden setting and splendid river cruises. The seven-storey buildings are spread out over a large property, giving it a resort-like feel. The three wings surround a large landscaped pool area with lily ponds and fountains, and there is a wonderful spa for a very uniquely calming Bangkok experience. The Bangkok Marriott is the place to stay if you want to explore Bangkok, but reside outside of the city centre.

Way back upstream, next door to the River City complex and directly across the river from the Hilton, is the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel. It has been around a long time, but constant refurbishment and innovations ensure that it always stays in touch with its more ostentatious rivals.

The Sheraton's major asset is its location close to major roads and highways and its superb "second" swimming pool, set in a shady garden adjacent to the hotel. Very popular for conventions and tour groups, it may not have the "snob value" as the other riverside properties, but it makes up for this with its informality and friendliness.

All the riverside hotels have private boats that ply the river, but you can just as easily catch the tourist riverboat which offers all-day tickets for less than three US dollars! From this boat you can visit major Bangkok attractions like the Royal Palace, the Reclining Buddha and the Temple of Dawn. You can also make your way to the crowded and fascinating Chinatown and Khao San Road, the lively backpacker area of Bangkok. Wherever you go, you know you will be able to return to the luxury and splendour of one of Asia's top hotels.