Online Travel Magazine
Issue: March 2005
Perth-fect!
Perth-fect!
by Robin Gillow
Ever since man orbited the earth, it had been my husband’s ambition to visit Perth, ‘City of lights’* or as we discovered: City of delights! I decided our 30th wedding anniversary was a good excuse to let him live his dream. I secretly booked flights and hotel accommodation, organised time off with his company and when the grand day arrived, presented him with the air tickets and our pre-packed suitcases.
We flew out that evening and the next morning were greeted by an aerial view of a glorious sunrise and the sparkling Swan River beneath the plane’s fuselage, as we were about to land. It was a truly ‘golden anniversary welcome’ and I knew we were in for an excellent vacation.
The Rendezvous Observation City Hotel has the best view of the Indian Ocean. Originally built as an observation hotel for the America’s Cup Regatta in 1987, it was an excellent accommodation choice. With views up the coast towards the Hillary’s Marina, down towards Fremantle and across to Rottnest and other islands offshore, we felt as if we could see forever.
After a relaxing first day, lounging by the hotel pool, meandering along the sandy beach, paddling in the cool shallows and sampling way too many different ice-creams en route; our second day saw us clambering aboard a high-speed ferry to take us to Rottnest Island for a day’s visit.
On arrival we opted to rent bicycles and peddled our way from one spectacular bay to another, swimming, snorkelling and experiencing the crystal clear water. Visibility was hardly a question and reef fish were abundant. As we cycled, we encountered a number of the island’s local residents, Quakkas. These small kangaroo related creatures are native to the island and are found nowhere else in the world (bar zoos). They certainly made cute hosts and the island was an excellent introduction to the country.
Visiting in September was perfect as Western Australia is renowned for its spring blossoms. We were pleased we had chosen to cycle rather than catch an island bus to see the sights on offer, as the place was covered in wildflowers. We saw kangaroo paws by the hundreds, flowering tea bushes, banksia and many others, in their full glory. More wild flowers were seen whenever we passed open fields or parks during our stay and we visited King’s Park to see the Wild Flower Show. This was well worth it, as one can buy plants as well as seeds or simply enjoy the flowering displays on show.
Shopping and dining out in the neat inner city of Perth was both interesting and pleasurable. It’s small, only about 4 by 3 city blocks in size, but as all the main inner city streets offer pedestrian access only, it was one of the cleanest most pleasant cities we have ever experienced. Walking tours of the area and nearby locations, offer excellent insight into Perth’s history, culture and gives one the opportunity to discover many of Perth’s outdoor sculptures, older buildings, galleries and famed Tudor London Court.
However man made structures, cities and the like, were not all we had come for and we decided to discover one of Perth’s oddities.
Just outside the city (about two hours drive) one comes across the Pinnacles, an extraordinary desert area of about 950 acres. It is dotted with strange limestone formations carved by wind and rain over a period of 20 to 30 thousand years. Here the golden sands change as the light of day crosses over the weathered forms, creating spectacular images that beg photography. The flocks of parrots that filled the late afternoon sky offered a pink tinge to the picturesque scene.
On the drive to this spot, we stopped for brunch at the Yanchep National Park, home to Aboriginal caves, numerous Australian fauna and flora varieties and lovely bush walks as well as a lake on which you can take the family boating. Also found here is a small zoo housing koalas and kangaroos.
On another occasion we took to the hills and visited the John Forest National Park and nearby Mundaring Weir. We spent a wonderful day picnicking and going on bush walks, strolling past huge grass trees, various eucalyptus species, yet more wildflowers, bottle brush bushes and the common local banksias (a member of the protea family - Proteaceae).
The holiday passed far too quickly and before we knew it, we had only one day left in this friendly city. As a celebration of our 30 years together and a tribute to our perfect holiday, we chose to go on a wine tour on our last full day in Australia. Boarding a boat, we travelled up the Swan River stopping at interesting sights en-route. The cruise took us to the Sandalford Estate and Houghton Winery where we sampled the excellent produce, bought a few bottles to take home and dined on a delicious three course lunch in the riverside restaurant, at the Olive Farm Winery.
Late that afternoon, we added to our alcohol consumption and joined the younger set at a local pub, where a young crowd of talented musicians and a singer entertained us. We discovered that new singers and groups often perform in local pubs in Australia, making them good places to check out new talent. We listened to the performers as we enjoyed a glass of sherry and drank a final toast to a more than perfect holiday before meandering back to our hotel.
The sun set, its shimmering light dancing pink on the darkening sea. A gentle breeze caressed our cheeks and we watched as the day closed. Suddenly a flash of green** appeared ever so briefly on the horizon and we knew that this was a golden celebration, blessed in every sense. It had been just "Perth-fect".
* Perth is known as the City of Lights, not only for its visibility and brightness, but also as a result of the first Mercury spacecraft passing over the city in 1962. Perth became a blaze of light as thousands of street, porch, house and office lights were switched on to greet American Astronaut Colonel John Glenn on his orbital flight. Over 35 years later, Perth once again lit up its sky to welcome back John Glenn during his Discovery space flight in 1998.
**Green flashes are a real (not illusory) phenomena seen at sunrise or sunset, when part of the Sun suddenly changes colour (from red or orange to green or blue). The word `flash'' refers to the sudden appearance and brief duration of this green colour, which usually lasts only a second or two and is considered by some to bring good luck.
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