Online Travel Magazine
Issue: March 2005
Oriental Express
Oriental Express
by Ms Q
The film “Murder on the Orient Express” has always fed my insatiable desire for a return to the grand old age of travel - when people chose their luggage not only for durability, but also for beauty, when ladies and gentlemen dressed for dinner, and when the mode of transport itself was the centrepiece of the trip.
When my husband was summoned by his company to Singapore, I thought that it would be a perfect opportunity to feed my longing for an old fashioned, stylish train ride. He had a week before he was due, so I convinced him that a leisurely journey through the Southeast Asian countryside was in order and would allow him plenty of time to relax before he had to rejoin the business rat race again.
With visions of women in hats accompanied by stewards shepherding their great piles of matched luggage, I made a reservation for The Eastern and Oriental Express, an offshoot of the original Venice Simplon Oriental Express line that still journeys from Venice and Paris to all of the Grand Cities of Europe. It achieves a subtle balance between Asian and European elegance, coupled with modern conveniences.
There are several routes to choose from, but the traditional trip that takes you from the vibrant city of Bangkok to sophisticated Singapore via Kuala Lumpur fit nicely into our plans. This was a more expensive way to travel (regional airlines price wars have made the price of travel between these two cities extremely affordable), but I thought that it would be well worth the expense for such a unique experience.
Arriving in sultry Bangkok is always a surreal experience; no matter how many times I have done it, its bustling vitality still takes me by surprise. However, since we had reserved a room at the beautiful Peninsula Hotel located on the scenic bank of the Chao Phraya River, we would experience the 'City of Angels' from an oasis of serenity.
The Peninsula Hotel is consistently rated among the best hotels in the world. It sits on the opposite side of the Chao Phraya River to the city centre and has uninterrupted, panoramic views of the river and the Bangkok skyline. We were tired after our flight and so proceeded directly to our room where hotel staff members performed the most painless check in I have ever experienced. After demonstrating the overwhelming amount of electronic controls in the room, they discreetly excused themselves and left us to enjoy the luxurious surroundings.
Most of our short stay was spent relaxing in the hotel: enjoying the view from the balcony in our room, swimming in the lovely pool and dining in the hotel's fantastic restaurants; but we also made time for a scenic boat ride on the Chao Phraya River , which remains an important and busy water way for local people. We disembarked at the famous Thai temple, Wat Pho home of the world renowned ‘Reclining Buddha'. We had a vigorous Thai massage at the Massage School there that left our spines realigned and our senses tingling.
We felt like Royalty while we were being driven to the train in the hotel limousine and when we were shown to our State compartment by our personal steward we were not disappointed - it was everything we had hoped. There was a large picture window to gaze at the passing bucolic tableau, a small divan that converted to a bed in the evening, and a bathroom with shower, toilet and sink. After settling in to our plush compartment, we hurried to the Observation car to watch Bangkok fade into the distance.
Life onboard the train was filled with genteel pleasures like Afternoon Tea served in your compartment, browsing in the Reading Room, pre–dinner cocktails in the Observation Car and elegant meals served with our fellow bon vivant travellers in the lavishly decorated Restaurant Cars. There are also scheduled stops at the Bridge over the River Kwai and Penang complete with guided tours.
After winding our way through jungle terrain, past rice paddies and ancient temples, when the train pulled into Singapore's Keppel Road Station after 3 days and 2 nights onboard, we were reluctant to leave our little slice of nostalgia. But, when we remembered that we were checking into the finest hotel in town, Raffles, we stepped lively.
“Patronized by nobility, loved by all…” is the slogan of Raffles Hotel, our choice for accommodations in the ‘Lion City'. Like staying in a well-appointed, stately mansion, the neo renaissance architecture reflects grand comfort and style. Our Palm Court suite had 14 foot ceilings and stylish period furnishings with gorgeous Oriental rugs covering the floors; we felt as if we had returned to a kinder, gentler time.
The only inconvenience that we experienced highlighted the impeccable service at Raffles Hotel. My husband had misplaced his glasses and he can't see a thing without them. When we asked the hotel staff for assistance, they recommended a reputable and friendly optometrist, made an appointment and arranged for the hotel car to drive us there. That kind of seamless service is the reason we chose Raffles and also ensured that we would be repeat customers.
In our modern world, travelling has increasingly become only a means of getting from one destination to another with little or no appreciation for the experience of the journey itself. Our Asian sojourn reminded of us of the pleasures of taking life a little more slowly.
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