Online Travel Magazine
Issue: February 2009
Rio de Janeiro - February 2009
Carnival Crazy
by Ellis Tonder
I don't often accompany my girlfriend on her business trips. As a fashion stylist, she gets to see some amazing places, but being with her is not much of a holiday. More often than not, she has to be up before dawn 'to get the right light' and she often has to haul around lots of equipment and props. Guess who ends up carrying them? Yes, me.
However, when she casually asked me if I would like to see Rio, I jumped at the chance. Would we be there for Carnivale, I asked hopefully. She shook her head, but added: "Don't worry, it's always carnival time in Rio." The clients for this shoot were US-based shoe manufacturers, launching a new range of multi-coloured boots. They had decided that Rio de Janeiro was the perfect backdrop to show off their new creations.
I looked through my girlfriend's "shot book", detailing the various locations to be used in the shoots. It read like a list of the city's tourist attractions. Included on the list were the Christ the Redeemer statue, Sugar Loaf mountain, the Copacabana Palace Hotel, Ipanema Beach and Maracana Stadium.
The reason for our trip to Brazil was to check the locations and iron out a few problems with city officials. The actual shoot would only take place two weeks later. I was relieved, as we would have four days to ourselves. Monica's first tasks were to finalise access to the Redeemer statue outside of opening hours and inspect refurbishments at the hotel.
She would also be making final arrangements with her lighting technicians. We were met at the airport by a local representative of the shoe company, Mattilda and her boyfriend, Carlos. What a couple! Although we landed at 11pm, they insisted we went out for a drink before heading for the hotel. Monica is a great fan of the caipirinhia cocktails, so it was easy to twist her arm.
We went straight from the airport to a pub located in a sidestreet somewhere in the city centre. Although it was tiny it was packed and people were dancing between the tables and on the tables. Back home, it would have been extraordinary, but here it seemed run of the mill. Mattilda explained that Brazilians "like-a to partee". We finally got to our hotel at 3am, and our hosts insisted on coming up for a drink from our mini-bar. "We christen the room, for good luck," she explained.
The next morning I wandered around the Christ statue as Monica had her meeting. Located on top of the Corcovado Mountain, it stands 30 metres tall and has amazing panoramic views. It overlooks Sugar Loaf Mountain, our next port of call. Although the actual shoot would take place on the steep stairs leading to the top, we opted for the cable car. Monica said the shoot here would take place at sunset. "We will use the red boots here. It will be a real hottie," she said.
That afternoon we visited Copacabana beach and its most famous hotel. One of the shoots would feature the black and white wavy mosaics which line the pavements of the beachfront road, Avenida Atlântica. Monica needed to find a spot which captured the mosaic patterns at their best, along with a background of palm trees and ocean. "We will use the black boots with a pair of white tights," she explained.
At the Copacabana Palace Hotel she checked out the bannisters of the balconies for a spot to hang boots from and then took some snapshots of the pool area. It was a magnificent building and was definitely the gem of the beachfront. As we walked around, a waiter appeared with iced water and Monica glanced at me. "One day we will stay here," she whispered.
That night we went out with the irrepressible Mattilda and the lighting crew to be used in the shoot. We ended up at a dance club, the Rio Scenarium in an area called Lapa. It was an incredible nightspot covering three floors decorated with amazing antiques. While Monica and Mattilda tried to keep up the samba beat, I watched from one of the many balconies overhanging the dance floor and threw back one too many caipirinhas.
The next morning I stayed behind in the hotel to catch up on emails (and some sleep) while Monica headed off for the botanical garden and the Tijuca forest. I was happy for the break, but I was determined to join her that afternoon at the Maracanã Stadium, home of the national team. In a country obsessed with football, the stadium is virtually a temple to most Brazilians.
With a capacity of 100,000, it is one of the biggest in the world. Monica was interviewing a line-up of local footballers to choose some "extras" for the shoot, so I took the opportunity to check out the museum. Alongside photographs and portraits of the great Brazilians stars such as Pele and Ronaldo were momentoes of the many glory days of the past.
That night Mattilda was ready for another night on the town, but we insisted on having a quiet evening together. We ended up going to a local restaurant around the corner from our hotel in Ipanema to enjoy some local fare. Monica ordered feijoda, a delicious meat and bean stew brought to Brazil by slaves from Africa.
I dined on churrasco, a meal of grilled meat on huge skewers. It was an enormous helping, with enough red meat to keep me going for a week! Even though our taverna only had six or seven tables, the moment people had finished dining, the dancing began. We could not resist and, once again, the cipirinhas and beer started flowing.
On the way to the airport the next morning, I remarked to Monica that the Brazilians we had met had shown an amazing zest for life. “Can you imagine what it is like during the Carnival?” she asked. Apparently, the whole city parties for an entire week and the main carnival in the famous Sambodrome is mirrored by neighbourhood parties throughout the city. The incredible enthusiasm and friendliness we had experienced made me determined to visit the city again. Believe me, the people of Rio know how to throw a party. Anywhere and anytime!
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