Online Travel Magazine
Issue: February 2006
Valentine Retreats
Valentine Retreats
by Peter Graham
I cannot think of a more romantic setting than a beach. I have always associated the sea with the ups and downs in my love life. When I fall in love, I head for a romantic beach resort to enjoy the long beach walks at sunset, the lazy mornings in bed and the joy of being on holiday with a lover. When I am alone again, I stay away from the sea, as it brings back the memories of those I have loved and lost.
During 20 years of living in Asia, I have sought out some of the most romantic beach retreats. I have stayed in shacks on the Tioman Islands of Malaysia, spent weekends in five-star hotels in Bali and hidden away for long love-ins on remote islands of the Philippines. The country I keep going back to, though, is Thailand.
From Koh Chang and Koh Samet in the Gulf of Thailand to Lanta Island in the south, I have probably seen the inside of more Thai honeymoon suites and "sea-facing rooms with a double bed" than any other traveller. Name a beach in Thailand and a loving interlude will spring to mind.
My latest discovery is, without doubt, one of the most deliciously romantic spots I have ever been to. I should probably keep it secret, but in the spirit of Valentine's Day, I will share it. The island is Racha Yai, which is situated about 45 minutes by boat from Phuket, and the resort is known simply as The Racha. Occupying a magnificent cove on this virtually undeveloped island, the resort was voted one of the 100 hottest new resorts in the world by the respected magazine Conde Nast Traveler two years ago.
Everything about this resort is stylish, but it is the villa accommodation that takes it into a class of its own. From our big double bed we looked out across the ocean. Sliding glass doors led out onto the patio where there was a daybed for us to lounge on, even closer to the sea. The big bathroom leads into an enclosed courtyard with an open-air shower. Some of the villas even have their own private swimming pools.
Here is how our days went. We would wake up early with the first rays of dawn and take a few steps onto the beach and into the surf for an early morning swim. Watching the sky light up as you bob in the bay is a fabulous way to start the day. Then we would head back to bed for an hour or two. After breakfast, we would retire to a shady spot on the beach to read our books or to the pool deck, which has a panoramic view of the bay.
Our loungers side by side, we alternated between reading our books, having a dip in the sea and nodding off to sleep. After a light lunch, we headed back to our villa for a long afternoon nap. At about 4pm we would set off on an excursion, whether it be snorkelling in the bay, cycling through the island's coconut groves or exploring some of the other beaches. As the sun set, cocktails would be followed by dinner in one of the restaurants and then back to our villa to relax into the night.
This is definitely a resort for lovers and people who enjoy their privacy. It's for those who prefer sipping a glass of wine on their own patio to socialising in the cocktail bar. It's for those who like to dress “down” on holiday as opposed to dressing “up”. And it's definitely for people who want to walk around barefoot and have lunch in their bathing costumes. On this holiday, we were those kind of people.
The Racha remains my number one choice for the moment (for as long as this true love lasts), but there are some other stunning resorts in Asia that are just as romantic. On Phuket, the Evason Resort has a honeymoon suite set on its own private island. You can't get more private than that.
A new hotel on the idyllic island of Koh Yao Noi on the other side of Phuket, Paradise Koh Yao, boasts sensational villas with magnificent views of Phang Nga Bay. Most islands have resorts that specialise in catering for honeymooners and lovers - check out the big selection on www.hoteltravel.com and make your choice.
If Thailand is my favourite destination for romantic solitude, then Bali is the spot for partying. If you want a holiday filled with the excitement of meeting new people, seeing new places and dancing to the hippest music, then look no further than this Indonesian Island of the Gods. No month seems to pass without another trendy restaurant or spa opening up. Whether you want foreign or Asian cuisine, you'll be able to find it.
When Bali goes upmarket, it really goes upmarket! What other island can boast a Ritz-Carlton resort, two Four Seasons hotels and three “six-star” Aman resorts? At the other end of the scale, you can still find a three-star resort in the surfer's paradise of Kuta for under 20 US dollars a night.
My favourite place to stay is the Amanda Resort, just north of the lively Seminyak nightlife area. Rooms are set in a beautiful garden and with two swimming pools, you will never feel crowded out. It's the perfect place to sleep off a hangover or relax in preparation for another night on the town.
Another big bonus is that it is only a 10-minute stroll to the beach and within walking distance to three of the best restaurants on the island, The Living Room, La Luciola and Ku De Ta. I maintain that an evening which begins with cocktails at Ku De Ta, overlooking the beach, will always end up in a wild party.
If you can't get to Thailand or Bali, there are always the Malaysian islands of Penang and Langkawi or the magnificent islands of Boracay and Cebu in the Philippines. If I fall in love again, my next trip will be to Sri Lanka, where some excellent boutique resorts have opened. One can scarcely talk about romantic isles without mentioning the Maldives. Aah, the Maldives, those idyllic atolls strung out in the ocean like pearls, with their divine water villas. Those I am keeping for last – that is where I will have my ultimate romantic holiday, my honeymoon.
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