As my flight came in to land, I looked down and knew that this was exactly what I was looking for. Hotels and bungalows hug the coastline, but the island remains an oasis of green in the sparkling ocean. Samui has the reputation of being quieter than Phuket, but it lacks little when it comes to facilities. There are direct flights from Bangkok, Phuket and Singapore and, in recent years, new developments have transformed the island from a backpackers' favourite to an international resort catering for all tastes and pockets.

A few months ago, the luxury Santiburi Resort & Spa unveiled its new golf course to acclaim from locals and visitors who favour the greens. The island has also become a mecca for health spas and retreats where stressed city-dwellers can unwind. They have discovered that its breathtaking beaches and hidden coves, along with the jungle-like interior, work wonders for a tired mind and body. Minutes after checking into my hotel, I immediately headed for the beach. I floated on my back in the warm ocean, watching the clouds drift by. This was island heaven!

The main tourist destination on the island, Chaweng Beach, has a wide range of hotels, restaurants and nightclubs. It's fun and full of life, but if you want something quieter, head for one of the smaller resorts like Bo Phut. An old fisherman's village, Bo Phut is a splendid microcosm of what Samui is all about, encapsulating the island's peaceful charm and natural beauty. Chaweng is still the best beach for swimming, but Bo Phut has an island magic hard to beat.

It is one of the oldest settlements on the island and remains home to families of chao samui (Samui folk) who live amongst those who have been attracted to the island by the growth of the tourist industry. Their presence undoubtedly contributes to the charm of the place, and to an atmosphere that is quaint and romantic.

When it comes to seaside holiday destinations, it is very difficult to find the right balance between the natural charm of the place and the commercial development which provides the facilities many of us demand. Of those places that achieve it most effectively, many have managed to combine the old and the new. One way that Bo Phut has managed to do this is by converting a number of the traditional beachfront shop-houses into an array of delightful restaurants, bars and cafes, which provide a wonderful setting for a long leisurely lunch or an early twilight dinner.

Let me take you on a tour of my favourite eating spots. Angela's Harbourside Café serves a delicious selection of freshly baked cakes, pies and other deli foods, making it an unbeatable spot for breakfast or brunch. They also serve great seafood and, if fish is your thing gastronomically, be sure to try the smoked salmon and shrimp omelette. At the other end of the dining spectrum, homesick Aussies can always find a taste of the life they left behind at the Billabong Surf Club.It is one place on the island you can be sure to get your hands on a cold VB beer, while the tucker on offer includes every bushman's favourite, traditional Australian meat pies.

For Californian cuisine, I would recommend The Shaqk 4 BBQ, which is something of a meat eaters paradise with the best ribs you will find anywhere on Samui. For those who favour primarily liquid refreshment, the Frog and Gecko is a pleasant beachside bar, which boasts a big screen TV and an extremely popular weekly quiz night every Wednesday. Along similar lines, The Pub is another friendly drinking establishment where you will be sure to find a relaxed and welcoming environment. Much like an Englishman's “local”, it is a perfect place to watch your favourite sporting events.

Gecko is another Bo Phut beach bar, but one with an altogether different feel. Popular amongst dance music connoisseurs, it regularly hosts top DJ's from around the globe and its Sunday beach parties are a great way to spend the afternoon. Starfish and Coffee is known for its impressive restaurant, but also also has one of the coolest bars on the island, making it a splendid spot for a cocktail or a glass of wine.

Although a long way from being congested, the Bo Phut area also has a good selection of hotels and resorts. For those who are really looking to get away from it for a few days, Ban Kaew Ruean Kwan is a small, yet beautiful resort made up of only three Thai style houses. Set in exotic and attractively maintained gardens, which include a splendidly peaceful lotus pond, this hideaway is a wonderful spot to escape life's rigours for a while. The tiny size of the place means that the swimming pool is virtually private.

At the other end of the spectrum, the Samui Palm Beach Resort is about as commercial as accommodation gets on this sleepy corner of the island, although it isn't actually very commercial at all. Each of the 76 rooms is blessed with a spectacular ocean view and all are tastefully decorated to a high standard. Creature comforts such as a mini bar, satellite television and in-house movies make it an extremely agreeable place to stay.

However, you do not travel to Bo Phut or Samui to stay in your room and watch television. Its magic is to be found outside, while soaking up the sights and the sounds, the sun and the ambience. Walks on the clean, sandy beach, swims in the warm, inviting surf, sailing around the island and al fresco dining under the captivating moonlight are the kind of things that make the Fisherman's Village everything that it is. But don't take my word for it, go and find out for yourself.