Due to Japan's volcanic terrain, the country is blessed with thousands of onsen. The king and queen of onsen regions are Beppu in the south and Hakone, 90km outside Tokyo. I went to Hakone. This spa resort area, rich in natural beauty literally bursts with onsen! Although some of the hot springs in town are set amidst bustling streets, others, tucked deep in the mountains and along streams, provide peaceful getaways for even the most solitary travellers.

I had spent a few days shopping in Tokyo and, to be quite honest, had more than my fill of noise and neon, so Hakone offered exactly what I was craving – peace, pampering and nature. Through a bit of research, I discovered the historical Fujiya Hotel, set in the classy hot spring town of Miyanoshita in Hakone.

The grand old Fujiya has attracted its fare share of celebrities for well over a century. John Lennon, Charlie Chaplin and U.S. President Franklin Roosevelt are among the many VIPs who have stayed here. If it was good enough for John Lennon, then no doubt it would be perfect for me!

Since 1878, the Fujiya Hotel has been globally renowned as one of the most classical resorts in Japan. It has its own onsen and an elegant, rustic charm that transcends history. As a gracefully-aging old dame, the Fujiya's atmosphere evokes days of a glamorous past. Still today, it remains popular among well-heeled Japanese and foreigners.

I found that part of the fun of the Fujiya Hotel experience is getting there. From futuristic Tokyo, the bullet train acts like a time machine transporting you back 100 years in less than one hour. The last leg of the train ride comically zig-zags up a hill, letting you off at Miyanoshita station, a 10 minute walk from the hotel.

The hotel stood out as I approached its majestic space. After seeing so many ultramodern skyscrapers in Tokyo, I was in awe of the Fujiya's Oriental-Victorian elegance and stillness. It appeared a perfect setting for either a romantic movie or ghost story. Fitting to the movie theme, upon entering the vintage wooden lobby, I was greeted with "Welcome. We've been expecting you." I had made a reservation, but after the adventurous train ride and dramatic approach, those words caught me off guard.

A friendly porter showed me to my room which was charming and spacious. Actually, it was huge compared to the compact rooms of Tokyo! My veranda bestowed a fantastic view of the mountains. I decided to refresh with a hot bath. I was pleased to find my bathroom equipped with a deep old-fashioned bath tub with hot spring water piped in. After soaking my weary bones, I flopped down on the bed and admired the high ceiling and antique furnishings.

After a delightful dinner in the hotel's Wisteria restaurant, all I could do was sleep. The next morning I awoke to a mist-filled valley view and the freshest air I had breathed in years. Breakfast was a healthy, hearty meal of miso soup, fish, rice and more. Yum! Then I enjoyed a leisurely stroll through the Fujiya's exquisite gardens, home to a treasure trove of flowers, trees and waterfalls.

Now for a proper soak in the Fujiya's public onsen. Having grown up among California's hot tubbing culture, I was accustomed to nude bathing. However, being naked in front of a bunch of foreign strangers in a foreign land was a new experience for me. Had they ever seen a gaijin's bare body before? Thankfully I had my comfy yukata robe and towel to cover me until I came to the edge of the steaming pool. I slipped it off and slid into the smooth, clear water.

As the steam rose around me, I felt silence and softness envelope my senses. I became so relaxed, that any self-consciousness about being naked was instantly washed away. The rich, velvety water seemed to penetrate into every fibre of my being. Most public onsens are gender-separated, except in some rural locations or when bathing suits are required.

If you prefer bathing in private, there are private baths like the Fujiya's Mermaid Bath which can be reserved for secluded bathing. I was pleased to find the water odourless as some hot springs can smell of sulphur. I enjoyed going back and forth between the hot and cold pools until my skin was tingling and silky soft. I floated into the Relaxation Room for some massage and reflexology. Now someone would have to pour me back to my room! I can't remember the last time I felt so completely relaxed. The peace and beauty of the environment, the warmth of the staff, and delicious food definitely added to a heavenly, holistic experience.

I could have easily spent every day lazing about, but I wanted to explore some of the magnificent countryside. I decided to embark on another adventurous train to the Owakudani Valley. Owakudani means “large boiling valley” and lives up to its name. The valley lies in an ancient crater, created in the last eruption of Mount Hakone 3000 years ago.

Before reaching Owakusani, we transferred onto the Ropeway cable car. The ropeway took a sweeping aerial course over the valley, offering dramatic views of the steaming crater, spectacular Mount Fuji and the blue waters of Lake Ashi. We landed, so to speak, on the shores of the lake where an impressive Pirate Ship cruised us across the shimmering surface and back into Hakone town.

I poked around the streets, sampling some of the local cuisine before retreating back to the quietude of the Fujiya. Some other interesting attractions in the area are the Hakone Open Air Museum, Hakone Glass Forest Museum, and the forested Hakone Shrine. The Hakone Open Air Museum creates a balance of nature and art by exhibiting sculptures on its sprawling grounds with beautiful views. The museum also features a sizable Picasso collection inside.

Hakone hosts a multitude of festivals throughout the year, with nearly one every day during August. The Hakone Jazz Onsen Festival is a fabulous event lasting for one month from 28 July. Prominent Japanese jazz musicians perform in six locations, allowing people to enjoy jazz while dipping their feet in hot springs. The Ohiradai Onsen Festival takes place twice a year in the middle of April and mid-August.

Hakone is home to 17 main onsen, from indoor baths in town to natural rock pools in the forest. This fascinating area and the Fujiya Hotel offer an ideal escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. Whether you're a lover of nature, luxury or historic Japan, you will love this place!