This boom owes its emergence as much to local culture as to the international search for relaxation and a healthy lifestyle. Water has always played a key role in Balinese life and is ritualised in the form of holy water (or tirtha). The sacred pools and hot springs on the island are believed to have magic healing powers and villagers have long sought cures from many naturally occurring spas. For generations, indigenous herbs and creams have been used to heal ailments ranging from sexual impotence to skin rashes. These were once closely guarded secrets passed on from mother to daughter, but little salons began emerging in the villages a few decades back offering massage and other beauty products.

As word of these natural treatments spread, visitors began visiting the village salons. Soon holiday hotels started offering the treatments in their own health salons and the Balinese spa industry was born. Now the industry has become sophisticated and stylish. All the top hotels have their own health spas and a number of excellent independent "day spas" are attracting devotees.

With their open-air pavilions, fountains and courtyards, they have become an oasis for holidaymakers in need of some pampering. From the outdoor showers and sunken bathtubs to the fragrant bouquets and the handcrafted furniture, the feeling is one of luxury and serenity. They offer a stunning menu of healing treatments and remedies, such as herbal wraps and scrubs, aromatherapy, thalasso therapy, thermal mud treatments, saltwater and essential oil jacuzzis and a wide range of massages. You can also get beauty treatments such as facials, cream baths, manicures and pedicures.

As the reputation of Balinese spas has spread, this trend has been taken up by other countries in southeast Asia like Malaysia and Thailand. It is no exaggeration to say that the Indonesian spas are having the same impact on the science of healing and rejuvenation that Swedish massage had 30 years ago.

When I was about to leave for Bali, a friend advised me: "Do yourself a favour; go to a spa and have a Lulur bath. You won't regret it." She didn't explain, but it stuck with me. The first few days of my holiday were spent exploring the beaches and nightlife of Kuta, but I recalled my friend's advice as I passed a spa late one afternoon. I strode in and asked if they offered a "lulu bath", without knowing what it entailed. The petite receptionist was taken back, but then explained that treatment which I had mispronounced involved exfoliation and body polishing. She said it was known as a "Mandi Lulur" and originated from the neighboring island of Java.

Soon I was relaxing in one of the pavilions, my senses already aroused by the aroma of hibiscus, which hung in the air, and the sound of tinkling water in the distance. Then the treatment started. A grainy paste of herbs was painted onto my body. This is the “Lulur”, which has a remarkable softening effect on the skin and was a favourite of the Javanese royal families. After it had dried, my therapist started rubbing it off slowly. She explained that the mixture contained pulverised sandalwood, ground nuts and rice, and it would take away my old skin and leave me with a new glow.

After that, I took a greater interest in spas. I had never realised just how many there were and how popular they had become. The Spa at the Ritz-Carlton Bali was recently voted one of the best in Asia. It has one of the world's largest seawater therapy pools, state-of-the-art hydrotherapy rooms and private spa villas.

Another spa with a seawater therapy pool is at the Grand Mirage resort, which is located in the Nusa Dua area. The Oberoi, a boutique resort near Seminyak beach, has a Banyan Tree Spa with numerous types of massage, while the spa at the Hard Rock Hotel on the Kuta beachfront has some low-cost options. Another popular spa is at the Bali Hyatt Hotel. It is designed in Balinese courtyard style, with villas and pavilions; all situated under a group of towering palm trees, blending harmoniously into the resort's world-famous gardens.