Even seasoned travellers barely give Paraguay a second thought, thanks to its long history of internal conflict and military dictators. Depending on your perspective, this is either a positive or negative thing. For those seeking a taste of South America that truly hasn’t been tainted by the tide of tourism, this tiny forgotten country may offer just the ticket. The tranquil Jesuit Ruins region in the south is a time capsule of the old missionary days and the jungles of the northeast are teeming with colourful birds, jaguars and other exotic creatures. The sun-scorched Chaco plains are another natural highlight. If you are looking for a laid-back experience, where nature and social mingling are the priorities, Paraguay may pleasantly surprise you.
Asuncion
Paraguay’s capital and largest city retains its personal 19th century ambiance thanks to a lack of high rise buildings and little injection of foreign capital. The narrow streets are lined with orange trees and low balconied buildings. Many of the attractions are conveniently concentrated in an area by the riverfront and a couple of main avenues. In times gone by, anyone who was caught looking at the Governor’s Palace during the reign of El Supreme was ordered shot on sight. Today, it is safe to approach the Palace and neighbouring Casa Viola, an authentic colonial-era building which houses an interesting museum. Other noteworthy sights include the 19th century Cathedral and museum, the Museum of Paraguayan Culture and Asuncion’s oldest building, the Casa de la Independencia. There are also several pleasant parks such as the Botanical Gardens and the modern art collection in the Museo del Barro is definitely worth a look. With its lively waterfront strip and historic city centre, Asuncion offers at least a few days of casual exploration.
Casa de la Independencia
Paraguay’s oldest surviving structure was built in 1774. The whitewashed walls, brick floors and quiet patio are evocative of Paraguay’s past. This was the secret meeting site for the revolutionaries who plotted the break from Spanish rule, coming and going in the middle of the night by alleyways in the back. This building is now an excellent museum exhibiting relics from the 1811 revolution which gave Paraguay its freedom. A host of religious artifacts and other sundry items which could be found in a typical colonial-era home add to the feeling of authenticity. Phone: +595 021 493 918.
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Ascension
This is Paraguay’s most important and impressive, cathedral which dates back to 1687. Inside the church is an absolutely enormous gilded altar, as well as dozens of 18th and 19th century religious paintings, statues and relics. If you enjoy churches and religious architecture, then it’s worth a visit. Phone: +595 021 449 512.
Museo de Bellas Artes
The artistic legacy of Paraguay is best preserved and displayed in the Museum of Fine Arts, located in the capital Asuncion. Visitors will enjoy the substantial collection of sculpture and paintings by both Paraguayan and other artists from around South America. The museum also houses many of the country’s most important documents, but it’s the art that makes this gallery worth a visit. Phone: +595 021 447 716.
National Pantheon of the Heroes
This memorial to the soldiers who fought and died in Paraguay’s many hopeless and disastrous wars truly symbolises the ongoing history of this landlocked country. Construction began in 1864 by Francisco Lopez, who then led the nation into the tragic War of the Triple Alliance/ It was finally completed in 1936 after the victory over Bolivia in the Chaco War. Fighting seems to be an implicit part of Paraguay’s psyche, but the commemorative plaques given to the memorial by the nation’s old enemies provide hope for a more peaceful future. Two soldiers guard the quiet and eerie monument, which is a pilgrimage site for every Paraguayan who visits the capital. Every Saturday at 10:00 there is a changing of the guard ceremony.
Parque Nacional Cerro Cora
This intriguing blend of nature, war and archaeology is one of the premier sites in Paraguay and should not be missed. The region is made up of dry tropical forest, savannah and steep remote hills. Not only is it a beautiful natural park, but it is also home to some of the country’s most important historical and cultural highlights such as caves and petroglyphs dating back to pre-Colombian times. This was also the site of the death of Francisco Solano Lopez at the end of the disastrous War of the Triple Alliance. No other place in the country offers this range of natural and cultural attractions.
Plaza Uruguaya
This plaza, named in honour of Uruguay for returning land which it seized during the bloody Chaco War, offers a pleasant haven from the heat of the capital. One side of the plaza has a covered market selling Latin American literature and the other side is the lovely 1861 railway station, which has been closed since Paraguay discontinued its train service. A wonderfully-preserved old steam locomotive is on display in the terminal.
Trinidad
Perched on the top of a lush verdant hill, Trinidad is the site of Paraguay’s best-preserved Jesuit settlement. This reduccion was the place where the native people were brought for religious conversion and education. Whether you’re for or against such evangelisation, the Jesuit missionaries played a huge role in the creation of modern-day Paraguay’s mestizo culture. Trinidad is a UNESCO world heritage site, but it is decidedly lacking in the usual amenities and information services you find at other such places. Even so, the ruins are a very interesting spot to visit if you’re in the south of the country.
Visit the Botanical Gardens and Zoo
Long-neglected by years of conflict and preoccupied dictators, this botanical garden and small wildlife zoo in the heart of Asuncion has been given a much-needed facelift by the current government. The site contains the country house of ex-president Lopez, which has been converted into a museum devoted to the wildlife, ethnology and history of Paraguay. If nothing else, the gardens make a nice reprise from the heat and hustle of the capital. Phone: +595 021 291 255.
Follow the Central Circuit
If you want to see more of the capital city Asuncion, consider following the popular Central Circuit, an established journey of about 200kms that hits some of Paraguay’s most interesting sites around the capital. There is a wide range of things to see and do, such as the Gothic-style San Lorenzo church, Spanish colonial remnants and even universities. By combining everyday sites with special attractions, the Circuit offers a more realistic sightseeing experience and is an ideal way to get some initial impressions of this country.
Explore Ciudad del Este
Located about 300kms east of Asuncion, this small town is the ideal starting point for exploring the amazing waterfalls of Monday Falls and Iguazu Falls, both of which are just a 20 minute drive from the town. The other main attraction here is the Itaipu Dam, which stretches more than 7 kms in length. This massive body of water has become home to a thriving ecosystem of birds and wildlife, but it is also a popular recreation centre. Visitors can take part in a number of water sports, fishing, sailing, trekking or biking. The natural environment makes this a great and easy spot for experiencing Paraguay’s natural scene without getting too deep into the jungle.
Spot some big cats
If big cats are your thing you may want to spend some time in this national park in the Chaco region. The area is a massive forested plateau, and its main highlight is the Cerro Leon, a dense thorn forest which is home to pumas, jaguars, and ocelots. The infrastructure here in minimal, but if you’re looking for something more adventurous, the park rangers will give you a ride along the rough roads to the isolated parts of the preserve.
Go to the park
Parque Nacional Ybycui is a popular national park and is definitely one of Paraguay’s highlights, and is perhaps the best place to start your explorations of the natural world. Located in the eastern edge of the country, the Ybycui contains Paraguay’s last remaining subtropical rainforest. Full of steep hills, creeks, cascading waterfalls and swimming holes, this park is a great place to get out and experience a virgin rainforest. You won’t see as much wildlife here, but the butterfly population helps make up for that.
Get close to nature
Although it covers 61 percent of Paraguay, the Chaco is only populated by 3 percent of the country’s people, making it one of the least-populated regions on earth. This vast area consists primarily of empty plains and forests, but there is a great diversity of things to see and do here. The Low Chaco is a land of marshes and palm forests, while the Middle Chaco is the home of German Mennonites who have established farms and towns, making it the only organised community in the entire Chaco region. Almost all of Paraguay’s major national parks are located within the Chaco, which include the Cerro Cora, Enciso, Tifunque and Defensores del Chaco parks. This is also the premier area for nature and wildlife enthusiasts, who can visit one of the region’s beautiful biological preserves located in Tati Yupi, Limoy and Itabo. Birdwatchers will want to visit the protected forests of Nacunday and Mbaracayu, where more than 600 species of bird have been spotted.
