Even seasoned travellers will have a hard time pinpointing the exact location of inconspicuous Paraguay. This small landlocked South American country has been kept off the tourism radar thanks to a long history of corrupt dictators and political instability. Things are a little better these days, but Paraguay remains primarily a destination for intrepid travellers searching for an undiscovered taste of South America that is hard to find in neighbouring Latin countries.
Most visitors arrive by plane at the country’s main international airport, located just outside the capital Asuncion. As it’s bordered by Argentina, Brazil and Bolivia, there are a handful of overland border crossings into Paraguay by bus or boat, but these options are typically used by travellers already in the area. With very few direct international flights from outside South America, Paraguay can be hard to reach.
Paraguay doesn’t have much of a tourist infrastructure yet, but the government does seem to be making progress on that front. Since it lacks any coastline or beach, most of the attractions in Paraguay involve the mountainous jungles and tropical rainforests. There are 11 national parks which are being developed by the government into ecotourism centres.. Thanks to the pervasive Jesuit missionaries of the 18th century, Paraguay also has some impressive ruins from their attempt to convert the native Guaranis.
Accommodations in Paraguay are modest by most scales, but travellers can find a decent range of rooms and some good quality hotels in the capital Asuncion. Outside of the main cities, lodging will be limited to whatever local attractions are on hand. Happily, eating is a brighter proposition. Paraguay’s cuisine is similar to the rest of South America, with beans and rice at the heart of a meat based-diet. Grilled beef restaurants are very popular all around the country thanks to the great Argentine cattle just across the border and don’t forget to try a cup of yerba mate, the ubiquitous drink with the cute cup.
The subtropical climate of Paraguay ensures that temperatures range from warm to brutally hot throughout the year. The most uncomfortable months are in the summer season from October to March, when the mercury soars to well above 35°C on a regular basis. Most Paraguayans take their vacations between December and February, which is considered the peak low season for this country. While rain can fall in any month, Paraguay receives the greatest amount of precipitation from December to April. The humidity created from the hot temperatures and afternoon thunderstorms is downright oppressive and most people retreat to the shade of their homes between noon and 16:00.
Winter, from June to October, sees much more pleasant weather. The daytime temperatures hover around a comfortable 22°C and there are even a few relatively cold days when polar air pushes up from the south. June, July and August are the driest months, attracting the most visitors. Regional weather varies in Paraguay, with generally cooler and wetter conditions in the east, while the Chaco area in the north is consistently drier and warmer. Since tourist numbers are so low in Paraguay, even the wonderful winter season is fairly quiet. But make reservations in advance if you travel during June, July or August, because hotels in the capital can fill up quickly.
The first people to live in Paraguay were the Guarani, a semi-nomadic group. But as in the rest of South America, the Spanish arrived in 1524, eventually setting up a colony at Asuncion. This settlement flourished and became the core of Spanish colonisation in the south-eastern part of the continent. Over time the Guaranis and the Spanish settlers mixed their culture, language and customs, creating one of the first mestizo groups. The colonisation also brought Jesuit missionaries to Paraguay. They did a remarkable job converting the Guarani to their religion, but after their expulsion in 1767, the Jesuit settlements were abandoned and the natives were left to their own devices.
Paraguay declared its independence from Spain in 1811. Surprisingly, it went unopposed by its former king and was soon under the rule of a xenophobic dictator known as El Supremo. The new country was forced into a long period of isolation and self-sufficiency. His successor helped to modernise Paraguay, but also started the horrific War of the Triple Alliance, against Argentine, Brazil and Uruguay. The results were disastrous for the country. After the war, a wave of Argentine and European immigrants arrived to help rebuild the nation’s agricultural sector, but political instability remained.
The 1900s began with a border dispute, turned war, with Bolivia. Although Paraguay won the Chaco War, the country’s politics turned even more turbulent, resulting in a short civil war in 1949. A 1954 military coup placed General Stroessner in power and Paraguay began a 35-year period of terror. The megalomaniac used torture, murder and corruption to remain in power until he was overthrown in 1989. The political situation in Paraguay has remained tenuous since then. Corruption, oppression and murder continue to plague the country’s government. The dictator General Stroessner is still hiding from extradition in Brazil and peasant land invasions and violent street protests happen with regularity. If the political scene is calm, then Paraguay is a great country to visit. But the status seems to change every few months, so keep abreast.
