Terengganu Overview

Until very recently, there were no major roads connecting Terengganu to Kuala Lumpur and the rest of Malaysia. As a result, local culture developed in isolation from the rest of the country. For this reason, much of Terengganu’s vibrant culture is owed to regions north of Malaysia and this heritage is reflected in top-spinning competitions, boat-building and fabric spun with gold-thread filigree (songket).

The beaches in Terengganu are one of the highlights. While the surf is notoriously rough and often not suitable for inexperienced swimmers, the beaches are sublime, sandy and largely vacant. You don’t have to travel far in Terengganu to find a beach that you can enjoy all to yourself..

The islands off the coast are another key attraction. Tour agencies can arrange daytrips to the islands where visitors can swim, snorkel, dive or simply bask in the sun on the sandy coastline. The Perhentian Islands are a prime attraction, along with Pulau Kapas and Pulau Redang.

Compared to the rest of Malaysia, Terengganu isn’t home to as many Chinese and Indian immigrants and there was relatively little colonial presence here in the past. There is, however, a small Chinatown in Kuala Terengganu where tourists can sample a delicious mix of Chinese and Malay cuisine.

The state capital of Kuala Terengganu sits at the mouth of the River Sungai, hedged to the east by the South China Sea. This is the seat of Terengganu’s sultan. The recent discovery of offshore oil deposits has bolstered the city’s income and helped to change it from a nondescript fishing village. Today it is a modern city, but it still has many stilt houses that commemorate its vibrant heritage.

Although the capital has joined the ranks of modern Malaysia, it still retains a great deal of cultural holdovers that make it an enticing stop on tourists’ itineraries. There are several weekend and night markets that draw locals and tourists alike with colourful handicrafts and the enticing smell of street-side food vendors selling laksa and the freshest seafood. Many traditional craft workshops operate around town where visitors can watch artisans making batik or songket.

No matter where you travel in Terengganu, it’s important to remember that the Islamic way of life prevails here. While there are plenty of restaurants and hotels that serve alcohol, there is not a pronounced nightlife scene in the state. Even so, Terengganu remains high on the list of tourists’ favourite regions, with a wealth of engaging colour and heritage, and plentiful accommodation in all categories.

Terengganu has long been an important trade stopover on routes through the South China Sea, and early records by Chinese merchants indicate that the port was in operation as early as the 6th century. However, detailed historical records don't exist until the 1300s, when Terengganu was incorporated as an Islamic state.

In the centuries leading up to its conversion to Islam, Terengganu's inhabitants practiced a mix of Hinduism and Buddhism. A monument adorned with Arabic carvings indicates that Islam was well practiced at the dawn of the 14^th century; and as such, Terengganu was the first of the Malayan states to embrace Islam.

In 1724, Terengganu was formally declared an independent sultanate. Friendly ties with the Sultan of Johor strengthened the new state during the first 100 years of its establishment. In fact, the first Sultan of Terengganu, Tun Zainal Abidin, was the brother of a previous Sultan of Johor.

In the 1800s, Terengganu fell under the control of the Kingdom of Siam (modern day Thailand). The sultan at the time worked hard to keep Siam at bay, and at times the relationship between these two countries seemed little more than a formality. However, an early 20^th century agreement between Siam and Great Britain saw a shift in the power scheme—an unpopular move with the local population.

Great Britain incorporated Terengganu into the Unfederated Malay States. An uprising in 1928 prompted action by British military forces. WWII and the subsequent Japanese invasion changed everything, however. After the war, power was handed back to Thailand until 1948, when Terengganu became part of the Federation of Malaya. A decade later, the Federation of Malaya became the independent country of Malaysia and Terengganu became one its member states.

Oil and natural gas were recently discovered offshore in Terengganu and what was once Malaysia’s poorest state has seen an enormous economic boom. The petroleum industry has quickly overtaken fishing and agriculture, and revenue has been invested in establishing tourism infrastructure.

Tourists head to the capital city of Kuala Terengganu and spend most of their time along the coastline. To this day, Islam remains central to the culture and lifestyle of Terengganu's citizens, and the social climate remains strongly conservative outside of the touristy areas.

Malaysia’s climate is characterised by year-round heat and humidity. Temperatures remain high throughout the year, with lows dipping to 21°C and highs rising into the low 30s (°C). There are two distinct seasons—dry and monsoon—and annual humidity levels remain at 90 per cent regardless of the season.

The monsoon season begins in November and continues until February. During this time, it’s not uncommon for the coastal resorts and other accommodation to close down for lack of tourists. When planning a trip to Terengganu, it is best to schedule a visit during the drier months of March to October, when all resorts are open.

Visitors who intend to spend time on the beach will be pleased to find that the dry season enjoys a great deal of sunshine, making this an ideal time for swimming and water sports. If your visit falls during the monsoon season, you’ll find that the west coast of peninsular Malaysia sees less rain and most of the accommodation remains open.