Malaysia’s largest state is the rainforest-saturated region of Borneo known as Sarawak. Indonesia’s Kalimantan provinces, the eastern state of Malaysian Sabah and the small kingdom of Brunei share this massive island, but it’s Sarawak that receives the most attention. Almost as large as the entire peninsula of Malaysia, Sarawak is a land of impenetrable jungle, dense mountains, long rivers and some of the planet’s most bizarre and fascinating wildlife.
 This is the land of the legendary White Rajas, orangutans and the elusive hornbill. Visitors to this ‘land of the lost’ will discover the world’s largest flower, Rafflesia arnoldii; insect-eating plants; flying squirrels; and tiny deer the size of housecats. Most of these exotic creatures live deep in the unpopulated interior of Sarawak, but with 10 national parks and four wildlife reserves, intrepid travellers can get right into the thick of things without too much effort.
 A few of the parks are located just outside the capital Kuching for those short on time, but if you want some serious adventure head to one of Sarawak’s many rivers to the northern reaches of the province. Here ancient cave systems, remote parks and rarely seen indigenous tribes await.
Just as amazing as the nature are the 27 different indigenous groups which call Sarawak home. Head hunters and cannibals are (mostly) a thing of the past. Nowadays the wonderfully colourful and traditional tribes that live along the rivers and in the jungle provide once-in-a-lifetime opportunities to see a facet of humanity that is quickly disappearing. The long, wide rivers of Sarawak provide access to the popular longhouse treks, where explorers can stay with a tribe and experience life from their uniquely natural point of view.
Nearly every visitor to Sarawak starts their adventure in the capital Kuching, a small but strikingly sophisticated urban enclave. This is a good place to introduce yourself to the wonders of Sarawak through the city’s museums, historical attractions and cultural exhibitions. This is also where you can plan your first excursion into the wilds of this region of Borneo. Half of Sarawak’s population is made up of indigenous people, with Malays, Indians, Chinese and a smattering of Europeans making up the rest.
Accommodation in the national parks includes comfortable chalets, which can be booked through the National Parks and Wildlife office in advance. The capital offers a wide selection of mid-range and upscale hotels, many of which are within walking distance of the main sights.
 There is just enough infrastructure in Sarawak to make travelling relatively comfortable. Apart from treks into the national parks, travellers can check out coastal villages such as Pandan and Sematan or the beaches of Bako National Park. Simply catch a flight into Kuching from a regional hub and get started. Get here quick: Sarawak is one of the last great mysterious places on the planet.
History
 Sarawak first came to the attention of Westerners in 1839, when the English adventurer James Brooke made his way to this untravelled corner of Southeast Asia, known as Borneo. After a long period of wandering, Brooke met the Sultan of Brunei who told him of the myriad tribes living in the south of his kingdom that were constantly warring with each other and his small sultanate. This ceaseless fighting disrupted the peace of the sultan’s kingdom, but he could not control them.
Brooke came up with a clever solution in which he aligned some of the tribes with the sultan and convinced them to conquer the others. This plan worked, resulting in lasting peace for the region. Brunei’s sultan was so pleased that he gave Kuching to Brooke in 1841, naming him raja over the lands which are now Sarawak.
James Brooke became an instant legend among European colonists, earning the title the ‘White Raja of Sarawak’. His family is said to have ruled Sarawak and its diverse population firmly but with compassion. He appointed local tribal leaders to administrative positions within his army and government, earning him respect from his subjects. Raja Brooke was quite a rebel, however, and refused to allow England to incorporate Sarawak under its colonial umbrella. He shut the trading doors to the British, dealing instead with Singapore. As a result, Kuching never blossomed like other regional colonial cities such as Singapore or Penang, which enjoyed the full support of the crown.
 When Raja Brooke died in 1868, his nephew Charles Brooke took over. Charles’s son Vyner succeeded his father in 1917, and was Sarawak’s last White Raja, a position he kept until WWII, when the Japanese invaded the region and took control. After the war, Sarawak was declared a British colony. When the country gained independence in 1963, Sarawak and Sabah happily joined the new federation. Today, Sarawak remains the largest state in Malaysia and enjoys a strong economy based on its natural resources, and to a lesser degree, tourism.
Weather
Sarawak’s equatorial latitude means it enjoys a stable and consistent climate throughout the year. Temperatures remain within the balmy range of 23°C to 32°C with a reliably high level of humidity of about 85 per cent. This means that the weather in Sarawak is hot and humid no matter when you visit. Coastal areas receive a small amount of relief from sea breezes, but the interior can be sticky and uncomfortable. There’s no bad time to come to Sarawak, as the weather doesn’t see much variation throughout the year. March through September is the driest period and generally considered the best time for a visit. With little precipitation to raise the humidity, visitors can expect to sweat less during this period than at other times of the year. Sarawak’s rainy monsoon season runs from October to February, so expect frequent but short-lived thunderstorms most days during this time. The rains cool things down a bit with winds moving the stuffy air around and giving some relief.
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