Luang Prabang Overview

The charming hideaway of Luang Prabang, just a 45-minute flight north of Vientiane, is one of Indochina’s gems and the showpiece of Laos. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1995, the well preserved city is more of a sleepy backwater than a modern metropolis.

Wedged into the confluence of the mighty Mekong and lesser Khan river, Luang Prabang’s peaceful location sets the pace for the unhurried way of life in the second largest city in Laos. Its grid-like road network makes it virtually impossible to get lost, and the entire city can be covered on foot in a day.

This is not to say there is not much to see here: Luang Prabang is home to some cultural jewels. Formerly the seat of government and royal capital of the Lan Xang Kingdom, the city has long been a centre of religion and culture. Its well-preserved heritage is one of its main appeals as a tourist destination and the city is fast becoming an essential stop-off on the Southeast Asian tourist trail.

Visitors can enjoy the sights of monks collecting alms early in the morning, charming colonial architecture and ornate temples of distinct Laotian design, as well as spend relaxed afternoons at any one of the cafés that line the Mekong. Handmade crafts dominate the markets here, with embroidered quilts, wall hangings and scarves sold by women dressed in colourful ethnic costume.

In the evening, the otherwise dormant French restaurants spring into action to serve up refined meals of coq au vin (chicken cooked in wine), followed by crème brûlée (custard and caramel dessert) and accompanied by an imported bottle of French wine. Authentic Lao food is also a must-try, with spicy combinations eaten with the ubiquitous ‘sticky rice’ that is grown in this region.

Accommodation is varied and plentiful, with restored heritage houses offering comfortable and intimate stays. Large hotel chains haven’t found their way here yet, but there are still some luxury options for those looking for a colonial touch of class.

The delightful holiday spot of Luang Prabang regularly keeps visitors here for much longer than planned. Hospitable locals make stays here even more enjoyable and the range and charm of hotels ensures you can enjoy the tranquility of Luang Prabang in comfort.

Ethnically, the Lao people originated from southern China, settling in present day Laos from the 13^th century onwards. The Lao Kingdom of Lan Xang (meaning ‘Kingdom of a Million Elephants’) became a powerful player in Southeast Asia and its territory covered much of present day Northeastern Thailand.

Luang Prabang remained the capital of the kingdom until 1545, when it lost its capital and administrative status to Wieng Chan, now Vientiane. The royal palace, however, remained in Luang Prabang and the city continued to be the country’s monarchic powerhouse until the communist takeover of 1975.

The eventual fall of the kingdom resulted in many principalities coming under Siamese or Vietnamese control. However, the French put a stop to the absorption of Laos by its neighbouring states when it established a French protectorate in the late 19^th century.

Development under French rule was slow compared with that of neighbouring countries such as Cambodia and Vietnam. Despite a lapse in French control during the WWII Japanese occupation of Laos, the French resumed leadership at the end of the war, sparking an independence movement known as the Lao Issara among the Laos people. The movement was successfully suppressed by the French with the support of the Lao king and crown prince.

Independence was gained in 1953, the same year the First Indochina War ended, and what should have been an optimistic time for the country became a lengthy struggle. Laos quickly became unofficially embroiled in the Vietnam War, which officially began in 1959. The Viet Cong allied with the Pathet Lao, a Lao nationalist group, while the Americans and Thais supported right-wing factions. Prince Souvanna Phouma of Laos tried to remain neutral while serving as prime minister from 1951 to 1975.

But the country itself became a sad victim of the greater theatre of war in the region as American bombers tried to suppress the infamous Ho Chi Minh trail that created an arms supply network through the eastern jungles of the country. Eventually it bacame the ‘most bombed country in the history of warfare’, a legacy that continues to this day as large areas of unexploded ordnance remain off limits. While the Americans based their activities in Vientiene, Luang Prabang and much of the mountainous north was either bombed or terrorised by the Prathet Lao insurgents. Fortunately the city itself was sparred any real destruction, but the general effect on the country was devastating.

The Pathet Lao won support upon the American withdrawal from Vietnam in 1975 and a communist state was established that same year under the name of Lao People's Democratic Republic. The monarchy was abolished and replaced with one-state party control. Hard-line socialist reforms were initiated but later reviewed in the 1980s, when economic and social policies were brought closer into line with those of neighbouring Vietnam.

Now a UNESCO protected World Heritage site, the city has gained attention as a tourist destination primarily for its well-preserved architecture and colonial charm.

Luang Prabang’s climate is characterised by dry and rainy seasons. The rainy season runs from June to October, when heavy rains can be expected most days. Despite the rains, temperatures throughout this season remain high at about 25°C to 30°C. This is one of the least favoured times to visit Luang Prabang as many of the city’s unpaved roads become unusable. Despite this, there are plenty of sunny patches and the vegetation is altogether lusher and more pleasant. If you arrive during the wet months, make sure you take advantage of the nearby waterfalls, which are at their best during this season.

The climate is drier from October to February, when temperatures are at their lowest. This is one of the best times to visit Luang Prabang, but visitors should come prepared for cool nights, when temperatures can drop to 15°C or lower. During the afternoons, sunshine is common.

Temperature rise in March, April, May and June, the hottest months of the year. There is typically no rain during these months and the city takes on a lethargic nature. Locals commonly nap in the afternoon when the heat it at its peak, and visitors may find sightseeing in temperatures of around 40°C. It is best to follow the locals and get up early, then rest in the afternoon until the temperature drops.