Typically, Nairobi is used as a jumping-off point for the plethora of natural attractions and safari parks which cover the country. However, Nairobi itself offers a fascinating look at modern Africa on its way up. The city’s bustling and colourful scene helps to make the inherent dangers of walking its streets more tolerable. But don’t be fooled by the shady, tree-lined Kenyatta Avenue with its trendy cafés and seemingly peaceful, prosperous facade. It’s true that Nairobi has some lovely colonial areas that are relatively safe and pleasant to explore, but it is important to remain alert and always keep hold of your possessions.

One of the best things about this city is the temperate climate, courtesy of its mile-high elevation. There are plenty of things to see and do in Nairobi and thankfully most of the highlights are concentrated in one central area within walking distance of each other. A number of excellent cultural museums will give you a look at Kenya before the arrival of the British a mere century ago and the importance the railroad played in its development.

The central district is also the best site for eating, drinking and sleeping. There’s a vibrant nightlife, and Kenya’s deep musical roots means you can usually find some excellent live music on offer. The city is also the perfect base to explore some nearby attractions, such as the world-famous Nairobi National Park, which can give you a taste of safari if you don’t plan to visit one of the larger game parks. You’ll find the city to be fun and friendly and well worth exploring for a few days. Take the time to learn where the dangerous spots are, and which areas have the most security. This way you can enjoy your days and after dark retreat to the safety of your hotel or well-established watering hole.

There are a number of luxury hotels in the centre of the city as well as mid-range family resorts. Whatever your needs or budget, you will find something which suits.

Considering the antiquity of Africa, Nairobi’s entire existence can be encapsulated into a single century. Wholly a product of British colonialism, Kenya’s modern capital city was little more than a watering hole for the native Maasai people until the British forced a treaty with the Maasai allowing the Mombasa-Uganda railway to pass through the heart of their grazing lands. Once the East Africa railway was completed, a small depot on the edge of a cold water stream was established by the British, which would one day evolve into the bustling metropolis that is modern Nairobi. As colonialism swept across Africa, Nairobi quickly developed from a tent city to the administrative centre for the Ugandan Railway.

The future of Nairobi looked very bright as it assumed the mantle of the British Protectorate’s capital from Mombasa in the early 1900s. The railway immediately brought wealth and infrastructure to the city, which in turn attracted more and more colonists to the relatively cool mile-high climate. Tourism soon followed as Nairobi developed into the safari headquarters of Kenya. The local British government built some posh hotels to house these first big game hunters, which in turn formed the nucleus of Nairobi’s future role as one of Africa’s main tourist hubs. The local Maasai, however, weren’t especially happy to see thousands of white settlers move into the fertile highlands surrounding the capital. By 1920, there were 9,000 settlers, but by the 1950s that number reached 80,000. Frequent conflicts erupted between the Maasai, the Kikuyu and the colonists over grazing and agriculture as the settlers established larger and larger farms and coffee plantations. Some natives resigned themselves to the situation and integrated into the new society, while others moved farther away.

The situation changed after WWII, when African troops returning from the war decided they no longer wanted to be governed by the British. The bloody Mau Mau Rebellion, fought mainly by the Kikuyu, raged for several years until 1956. But the pressure on the British occupiers continued, and on 12 December 1963, Kenya received independence. With the Kikuyu now in charge, Nairobi pushed forward with economic and social development that has transformed it into one of the largest cities in Africa.

This boom in prosperity however brought with it many problems. Nairobi’s wealth is unevenly distributed and as more and more Africans migrate to the capital in search of work, crime has become a part of everyday life. Heavy-handed police tactics, organised gangs and political squabbling make Nairobi one of the more dangerous places in the world. In 1998, terrorism also made its debut in the capital when Al Queda blew up the US embassy, killing some 200 Kenyans. Things continue to be shaky in Nairobi, as crime remains rampant and the political situation tenuous at best. This is unfortunate, as the city is an ideal hub for exploring Kenya, but as in most parts of Africa, nothing is ever certain and one can only hope that eventually the capital will gain the stability it deserves.

Compared to the rest of Africa, Nairobi enjoys a rather pleasant climate thanks to its elevation of 1820m. This helps keep the temperatures much cooler during the days and rather chilly at night. December to March, often referred to as the dry season, brings the best weather, with consistently sunny days and warm temperatures that average 22°C. If there is a high season in Nairobi, this is it, but in general the city isn’t dominated by any particular spike in tourism.

On either side of this sunny period are two rainy seasons, but in reality the rainfall is moderate compared to other parts of Africa. After the dry season, there are a couple of months of afternoon thunderstorms which are rather pleasant as they rinse off the dust and disappear as quickly as they arrive. The worst time of year in Nairobi follows this first rainy spell, when conditions are almost continually overcast with a light drizzle of rain. These dreary days continue until September, when conditions revert back to afternoon thunderstorms as the climate slowly moves towards the dry season. Due to Nairobi’s proximity to the equator, there isn’t a great deal of variation between daytime temperatures or sunrise and sunset.