Jordan’s capital is an amazing contrast of the old and the new. Like the intricate mosaics that adorn the walls of its mosques, Jordan does an admirable job of preserving its ancient Roman roots at sites like The Citadel and Philadelphia, while allowing a thriving modern urban society to evolve in its shadow. The effect is that colourful bazaars like Balad Souk coexist side by side with the stunning chequered Abu Darweesh mosque and trendy Rainbow Street.

A Middle Eastern vibe certainly dominates Amman, with Islam firmly rooted at its heart. But its tolerant perspective allows glitzy modern shopping malls to cater to the expanding middle class, and five-star hotels are becoming the norm rather than the exception. Although much of its surviving antiquity is actually Roman, Amman’s seven hills have produced evidence of settlements dating to the Bronze Age.

Amman is a city on the rise, and its dining scene reflects its heritage as a centre of migration and commerce over the centuries. Fantastic and diverse dining options are rivalled only by the shopping opportunities found in the timeless souks and chic neighbourhoods like Rainbow Street. Spend some time in a classic Arabic coffee house to see how the locals spend their free time.

Amman has a full range of accommodation with plenty of basic inexpensive lodging to balance the rising number of luxury hotels that appear with each passing year. Amman is a city where it’s worth splashing out on a nice room because the level of service and value for money will leave you with regal memories long after you’ve returned home.

Most visitors fly into Amman via its Queen Alia International Airport, which services direct flights from many cities in Europe, Asia and all regions of the Middle East. Overland travel to Jordan is certainly possible, but not necessarily recommended unless you’re seeking an adventure and have plenty of time to kill.

Amman enjoys a warm arid climate similar to the Mediterranean. The prime time for a visit is between September and November, when temperatures are refreshingly cool and the skies bright and blue. April is another excellent month in Amman, as the rainy season is tapering off, but temperatures aren’t too hot. By the end of May the heat becomes intense, regularly climbing into the 40s (^oC) until the end of August. Fortunately, humidity levels are very low during the baking summer, helping conditions remain (somewhat) tolerable.

The rains typically arrive in November, bringing welcome occasional showers to the city until March. The rain rarely dampens travel plans, however, but temperatures can get quite chilly in December and January so bring warm clothes. The worst weather in Amman comes in June, when strong hot winds blow sand and dust all over the city. This is the start of the low season in Amman, offering the single advantage of very few tourists.