Tel Aviv Sightseeing

Tel Aviv is a fascinating blend of the very old and the very new. Since the city itself is less than 100 years old, most of its attractions lie in more modern developments, like its mass of Bauhaus architecture, which gave it the name ‘The White City’. In the 1930s, Tel Aviv was a model of ultramodern urban living. Today, it has learned to blend this image with the extremely ancient atmosphere of the port city of Jaffa. The result is a fun collage of the exotic and the chic. A visitor to this sun-drenched city can stay entertained for many days.

Jaffa
This timeless port town has a long and colourful history stretching back over 4,000 years. It was here that King Solomon picked up the Lebanese cedars from King Hiram of Tyre to build the infamous Solomon’s Temple. It was here that the biblical Jonah headed out to see only to be swallowed by a whale. It was here that the Greeks created their myth of the maiden Andromeda being rescued by Perseus on his winged white horse. Richard the Lion-Hearted built a citadel here during the crusades which was quickly taken by Saladin’s brother. Even Napoleon passed through Jaffa during his conquests of this region. Today, Old Jaffa still exudes an air of mystery and adventure. Built into the side of a hill overlooking its ancient port, the old centre of town has been restored to its former glory and now houses fine restaurants and boutique shops. The flea market neighborhood around the old clock tower is more ramshackle but embodies the real personality of this Arab/Turk enclave. Jaffa is the real gem of Tel Aviv and offers endless hours and wandering, haggling and people-watching.

Tel Aviv Museum of Art
This is Tel Aviv’s major art museum, focusing on the works of both Israeli and international artists from the 16th century up to the present. The temporary and permanent exhibitions consist of paintings, prints, drawings, photography and sculpture. Thanks to the recent addition of the Jaglom Collection of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist Art, the museum now boasts an impressive number of modern and impressionist works from such luminaries as Matisse, Modigliani, Pisarro and Chagall. The entrance lobby is covered by a fantastic mural by Roy Lichtenstein. Interpretive tours of the gallery are conducted in English every Wednesday at 11:30. The Friday edition of the Jerusalem Post newspaper provides a weekly list of the upcoming films, concerts and lectures put on at the museum. Your admission ticket also includes a shuttle bus tour of some interesting architectural and historical sites around Tel Aviv, as well as entrance to the nearby Helena Rubinstein Pavillion, which is smaller but interesting art gallery. The museum is open Sunday, Monday, Wednesday and Thursday from 10:00 to 18:00; Tuesdays from 10:00 to 22:00 and Friday and Saturday from 10:00 until 14:00 and 19:00 until 22:00.

Museum of Antiquities of Tel Aviv-Jaffa (Jaffa Museum)
This unique museum is one of the most comprehensive collections of Jewish cultural history in the world. Located in Ramat Aviv, just inside the Matatia Gate of Tel Aviv University, this museum was the creation of Dr. Nahum Goldmann, the founder of the World Jewish Congress. Inside this striking and expansive building is a vast array of artistic exhibitions which trace the 2,500 year history of the Jewish Diaspora. What makes this museum unique is that there are no actual artifacts from the past. Everything here is presented as a multimedia history lesson using photographs, documents, film, music, scale models and artifact replicas to bring to life the lifestyles of Jews living in countries all around the world. The global dispersion of the Jewish community is one of its unique, yet bonding, trademarks. This museum does an excellent job of presenting all the many facets of this group of people. For true Jewish enthusiasts there is also an amazing collection of Jewish music and a vast repository of film archives. If you have more time to spend, you can use the museum’s genealogy research centre to trace your family roots. The Jaffa Museum is open Sunday through Thursday from 09:00 until 13:00

Water and Fire Monument
This fascinating sculpture-fountain was designed by Yaacov Agam and named ‘Water and Fire’. It consists of five massive concentric metal rings which are painted in such a way that as the rings turn the surfaces reflect radiant light and colour effects. While the rings are turning, jets of water shoot skyward accompanied by a burst of flame erupting from the top of the sculpture amidst the water. The whole show lasts 20 minutes and is accompanied by music. It really must be seen to be believed. Agam’s computerized piece of artwork starts its show at the beginning of every hour from 11:00 until 22:00. If you get there early enough you may be able to grab a seat on one of the benches. It’s located in the plaza above Dizengoff Square.

Carmel Market
This is an authentic Middle Eastern bazaar situated on a long stretch of Allenby Street with many smaller lanes branching off of it on both sides. The Carmel Market, also known as the shuk, is jammed full of vendors shouting and haggling and selling everything from household goods to fresh fruits. This is a locals market and is always crowded on the weekdays from around 09:00 through the afternoon. Fridays are especially hectic as people rush about trying to finish their shopping before the start of Shabbat and the weekend. Although the prices are fixed, leaving little chance of bargaining, this is the place to go for Israel’s freshest oranges, mangoes and avocados.

Kikar Kedumin
Also known as the central plaza of Old Jaffa, this charismatic square is overflowing with restaurants, expensive gift shops, art galleries and excavation sites. Visitors often complain that it’s too touristy, and the local artisans grumble about the noise on summer nights, but Old Jaffa is still a fascinating little quarter with massive charm which should not be missed. Dozens of tiny alleys wind their way downhill like a maze towards the port area. It’s a great place to just wander about and soak up the atmosphere. Don’t worry about getting lost, as all roads lead down to the water. The archaeological centerpiece of Old Jaffa are the catacombs from the 3rd century BC. They have been turned into a free underground visitor centre with a detailed description of Jaffa’s history.

Nahalat Binyamin
This quirky street market in the neighborhood of the same name only happens on Tuesdays and Fridays. Vendors here sell everything from kitschy plastic trinkets to beautiful handmade crafts. Some of the exquisite crafts available include handmade Yemenite silver jewelry, hand blown glassware and hand carved wooden boxes. The atmosphere is this little market is livened up by the many street performers who entertain all day long. To complement the whole experience, there are numerous food stalls along the way which serve all kinds of local delicacies, and at the end of the market is a giant Bedouin tent where you can feast on a fresh pita stuffed with whatever you like.

Shuk Hapishpeshim (Jaffa Flea Market)
This exciting and vibrant flea market started out in the 19th century as one of the many small bazaars that surrounded the old clock tower of Jaffa. Today, it’s the last remaining remnant of that long lost era. Although these days the flea market has more junk than treasure, it’s still a great place to slowly explore the main market street, Olei Zion, and its many tributaries. Perhaps something will catch your eye and you can engage in one of the true arts of Middle Eastern culture: haggling. Never accept the first price offered. It’s important to both the seller and the buyer that you engage in this traditional dance of the final price. Locals insist that the best stuff only comes out early Sunday mornings and if you’re the first customer on the first day of the week, the vendor will consider a quick sale to be good luck for the remaining week. The Jaffa Flea Market is open Sunday to Thursday from 10:00 to 18:00 and on Friday from 10:00 to 14:00. The number 10 bus from Ben-Yehuda Street in Tel Aviv will take you there.

First and foremost, every visitor needs to spend some time exploring the fascinating little mosaic of life in Old Jaffa. This ancient port city is great for wandering around, with its labyrinth of narrow lanes, shops and archaeological sites. Jaffa’s ancestry is a mix of Arab, Turkish and north African influences which make it an excellent historical complement to the exclusively Jewish museums of Tel Aviv.

That being said, if you want to learn more about the plight of the Hebrew Nation, then the Jaffa Museum, Bet Bialik Museum, Eretz Israel Museum and Bet Hatfutzot Museum will give you a comprehensive understanding of Jewish culture. The Tel Aviv Museum of Art and its sister gallery the Rubin Museum are the places to see how the Jewish art community has evolved over the years.

The markets, or bazaars, are an integral part of Middle Eastern life and shouldn’t be missed. The Carmel Market is Tel Aviv’s largest fresh produce bazaar. Hakarmel Market and Nahalat Binyamin are also important bazaars for the locals and sell almost everything under the sun. If you’re in Jaffa, be sure to visit the Shuk Hapishpeshim flea market for some potential treasure hunting.

For something a bit wilder, you can take the kids to the Safari Park. Its 250 acres of wide open terrain allows the many African animals to roam naturally. Slowly moving along in an enclosed vehicle along the 5 mile trail will get you up close and personal with elephants, lions, rhinos, giraffes, zebras and many more beautiful creatures.

As a seaside city, Tel Aviv has the luxury of having some amazing beaches right in the heart of town. Starting at the beach next to Dizengoff Square, you can stroll down the promenade which runs the entire length of the beach. The cleanest stretches of sand in the city are behind the Hilton, Sheraton and Dan hotels and if you’re willing to go a few minutes south of Jaffa you can have Bat Yam Beach all to yourself. All of Tel Aviv’s beaches are public, patrolled and have excellent facilities such as changing rooms, toilets and showers. The breakwaters ensure that swimming is safe at most spots, but always check with the lifeguards.

If laying on the sand becomes too dull, you can get into the clean, clear Mediterranean water and try your hand at surfing. Luckily, some of the best surf in Israel is around Tel Aviv a little ways north and south of the city. Bat Yam Beach has one of the best surf breaks. Since the waves are a mild metre or so high, it’s a perfect place to learn. Sailing, wind surfing and kite surfing are other popular watersports you can either watch or participate in along the coast.

Renting a car is the ideal way to see some of the Israeli countryside, which includes some lovely, untouched beaches and ancient sites. Apollonia National Park (Tel Arsuf) combines the historical remains of a 6th century Hellenistic settlement with some of nicest beaches in the country. Just 30 minutes north of Tel Aviv is the ancient Roman city of Caesarea, an important site in both Christian and Jewish history. During the Roman rule around 22 BC, this port town was the second most important city after Jerusalem. Today, the aqueduct, hippodrome, and impressive amphitheater still remain in excellent condition. This National Park also sits right on the ocean and is a wonderful place to wander about. The amphitheater, which faces out to sea, is still used for musical and theatrical performances.

If there’s one thing Tel Aviv can offer, it’s a balanced variety of the old and the new, the modern and the natural. From the glorious beaches to the bustling markets and ancient sites, you’ll have a hard time deciding what to do first.