Despite being the oldest city in the Caribbean, Havana exudes a timeless charm that blends its elegant Spanish-colonial roots with the colourful vibrancy of its Afro-Cuban legacy. Visitors quickly find themselves immersed in a sensory overload, as Chevy Bel Aires from the 1950s putter past romantically faded colonial buildings from the 16th century where old men (and women) sit around smoking the world’s most prestigious cigars. The sounds of Afro-Cuban jazz often fill the background and the whole city seems to be in a perpetual state of contentedly living in the moment despite their obvious economic hardships.

At the heart of it all is Habana Vieja (Old Havana), the original city centre founded by the Spanish in the 1500s and now one of UNESCO’s World Heritage Sites. This district alone would be enough to put Havana on many travellers’ short list with its incredible plazas surrounded by 500 years of Spanish-colonial, Baroque and Gothic architecture in various states of picturesque decay.

The cobblestone streets are filled with real people, welcoming and open, making do as best they can. After dark the city puts on a different face, as the myriad bars, clubs, and cabaret shows keep Havana dancing and partying late into the night. By day there are dozens of excellent museums, old forts and historical sites to explore; as well as El Malecon, the famous seaside promenade that runs the entire length of the city and provides the locals with a relaxing place to stroll and hang out.

Accommodation in Havana ranges from family run establishments to luxury hotels suitable for those looking for something a bit special. Families will find that there are many good hotels providing excellent facilities for the kids as well as entertainment and amenities for the adults. Many of the hotels are individually run and not part of an international chain which allows guests to really get a feel of Cuban culture. The Old Town has some excellent hotels which are located in the heart of the district allowing easy access to some of the city’s most spectacular sights.

The fascinating and unique world of Castro’s Cuba is all around, adding a special element to the history of Havana. Revolutionary slogans urging unity blaze across walls and billboards. The sense of El Revolucion is still tangible even after 50 years, and with the end of the Fidel Castro era imminent, now is the perfect time to experience Cuba before it enters its next phase of existence, whatever that may be.

Havana was one of the first cities to be established in the Americas, back in 1519, when a port town named San Cristobal de la Habana was opened on the north-western coast of Cuba. The natural harbour here is one of the finest in the Caribbean and remained an important stop for nearly 250 years as the Spanish transported their stolen treasure from the New World to Europe. Yet despite its major role in maritime affairs, Havana was sparsely populated throughout much of this early period.

Things changed dramatically in 1762 when Cuba was conquered by the British during the Seven Years’ War and transformed into a major trading centre for the region. Although the Spanish regained control just a year later, the port was now fully opened to global trade and the island’s interior under massive development.

The 19th century brought the golden rise of Havana as it emerged as the busiest commercial port town in the Western Hemisphere. Tobacco, sugar, rum and coffee exports drove the economic boom, which was controlled by semi-aristocratic families called criollos. Large numbers of slaves from Western Africa were imported to work the plantations, and their diverse ethnicity and traditions eventually fused with the criollos creating the unique Cuban culture we know today. Along with the prosperity, Cubans began to seek independence from Spain, beginning with the Ten Years’ War from 1868 to 1878. Jose Marti, a Cuban writer and revolutionary, was at the centre of this early drive for autonomy.

Following years of struggle, a major incident happened in 1898, when the US ship Maine was blown up in Havana Harbour. Although the true cause of the explosion was never determined, it sparked the Spanish-American War, which ended Spanish rule and ushered in a new era of US meddling in Cuban affairs.

The infamous Revolution of the 1950s was as much against the US as the dictator Fulgencio Batista. Revolutionaries such as Che Guevera and Fidel Castro led the charge, which culminated in the fairytale moment when Castro rode victoriously into Havana on 1 January 1959.

The Soviet-fashioned system of government imposed by Castro certainly improved the lives of Cubans in general. Education and medicine were particular success stories, but with the collapse of the Soviet Union in the 1990s basic supplies became rather tight on the island. The US trade embargo didn’t help matters either. Yet despite a constant shortage of basic goods, Cuba has continued to survive helped in part by tourism. Havana remains the heart and soul of Cuba and continues to work towards a brighter and more stable future.

The Cuban people are the driving force behind the survival of their wonderfully charismatic country. Their determination and optimism in the face of hardship is an inspiration, and the main reason Havana remains so romantically alluring for visitors the world over.

Havana has a typical Caribbean climate, meaning it’s warm all year round and has two distinct seasons. The most popular time to visit is during the cooler dry season, which runs from December to April. An average temperature of 20°C during the winter months makes conditions remarkably pleasant. But it also attracts hoards of tourists escaping colder climates in Europe and Canada. Trade winds keep things breezy and comfortable most of the year, providing a touch of relief at even the hottest times.

Havana’s rainy season dampens things considerably from May through November, as temperatures rise to an average of 27°C and the 80 per cent humidity levels make life rather stuffy. This is also hurricane season, especially between August and October, so visitors should keep this in mind if planning a trip during the late summer. The shoulder seasons during the spring and fall make good times to visit, although you may find that many hotels and restaurants have closed for the off-season. If you can bear the heat and rain, the summer’s lack of crowds and lower hotel rates can be very appealing.