Suzhou’s myriad natural environs are its principal attraction. These classical gardens are distinct from the well-manicured Western variety. Instead of carving the earth into symmetrical (if not artificial) parkland, the designers of these gardens capitalised on the raw and unexpected aspects of nature. Each garden is a place of reflection, a meditation on a particular aspect of nature—be it an element, a landmark or a natural phenomenon. Most of these gardens were also planned in conjunction with towering pagodas and ancient temples.

Lingering Garden
This Ming Dynasty garden is centred on a monstrous five-ton Tai Hu Rock called the ‘Crown of Clouds Peak’. The architecture here is especially unique, with gently rolling rooftops reminiscent of waves on water, windows that seem to frame the outdoor panoramas like a still life painting and narrow corridors that blossom into open-air halls. The best viewing pavilion is part of Mandarin Duck Hall which stands in front of Crown of Clouds Peak. Phone: +86 512 6533 7903

Temple of Mystery
Often missed by tourists, the Temple of Mystery (Xuan Miao Guan) sits at the heart of the street market in the old quarter. This early Taoist temple is the largest of its kind in China. It dates to the 3rd century, though the oldest remaining remnants are from the 12th century onwards. Inside is a myriad of more than 50 Taoist deity figures kept in glass cases along with a splendid golden statue of the Goddess of Mercy (Guanyin). Onsite musicians perform Taoist music throughout the day. Phone +86 512 6727 6616

Humble Administrator’s Garden
The city’s largest garden dates to the 1500s and makes impressive use of water. In this garden, a maze of waterways envelope intermittent islets and jetties, creating a richly divided landscape that seems to fill more space than it actually does. In fact, what appears to be a collection of several ponds and canals is actually a single, serpentine pond that travels unbroken from one end of the gardens to the other. A covered walkway over part of the gardens literally floats on the surface of the water, following the ebb and pull of the pond.

Lion’s Forest Garden
Shizi Lin is characterised by an otherworldly collection of misshapen rocks (collected over time from nearby Tai Hu Lake) and irregular walking paths. For several centuries now, Tai Hu rocks have been finding their way into royal gardens across the country, and the gardens at Beijing’s Old Summer Palace are specifically inspired by the arrangements here in Lion’s Forest Gardens. There are four ponds on the premises, one of which is framed by a maze of manmade caverns. The original designer for this garden intended to evoke images of mountains and their role in the natural world.

Master of the Nets Garden
Built specifically as a place to reflect and contemplate life’s mysteries, Wang Shi Yuan makes excellent use of its tiny space. Countless screens, partitions, lattices and pavilions subdivide the garden into an interconnected series of contemplative corners and peaceful pavilions that centre on a tiny pond. The Dianchun Cottage is decorated with hanging scrolls and lanterns, while a particular pavilion here is designed for watching the moon, the image of which can be seen through a reflection on the water, in a mirror and firsthand—seemingly all at once. Phone: +86 512 6520 3514

Pan Gate
Dating to the mid-14th century, this is the only remnant of ancient Suzhou’s ramparts. The gate was once used to provide or deny access to the city—both by land and water—via the incoming canals. The gate is part of a larger scenic area that includes the centuries-old Ruigang Pagoda which stands seven stories over the surrounding gardens and fish pond. Opposite the pagoda on the other side of the pond is the Hall of Attractive Scenery with its peaceful tea room and viewing platform. Phone: +86 512 6530 0827
Tiger Hill
Suzhou’s most famous park is situated two miles northeast of the city centre. This is the site of the Yunyan Pagoda and the burial place of the city’s founder, King He Lu, interred in the 6th century BC with 3,000 swords. The stone ledge known as Thousand Man Rock is the legendary site of ancient government cover-up in which city officials sponsored a banquet (complete with poison-laced wine) to thank the labourers who buried King He Lu. The secret of the king’s exact burial spot died with these unfortunate men. Recent excavations (related to an attempt to strengthen the Yunyan Pagoda) uncovered several Buddhist sutras dating to the 10th century. Phone: +86 512 6723 2305

Yunyan Pagoda
Suzhou’s very own leaning tower is both taller and older than its counterpart in Pisa, Italy. It stands at a height of 154ft and leans three degrees due to gradual slackening of its support columns over the more than 1,000 years since it was built. The tower was reinforced in the 1950s and has been deemed safe enough for visitors to enter. There are no stairs in the Yunyan Pagoda; tourists ascend all seven of its stories via movable ladders.

Climb China’s leaning tower. The Yunyan Pagoda has developed a tell-tale lean over the centuries. Engineers recently shored-up the foundation so that tourists can climb all seven of its octagonal stories. Situated on Tiger Hill, this area is rich with legend and local history.
Feed the fish. Many temples host picturesque ponds that are stocked with fish released by Buddhist merit-makers. Fish food is readily available for visitors and worshippers who’d like to feed the fish and make a little merit themselves.

Hire a pedicab. While pedicabs aren’t the most practical means of transportation (they’re slower and more expensive than other local modes), they provide an excellent mode of sightseeing. Pedicab drivers offer hourly rates and can tailor make a tour for you. Negotiate the price before boarding.
See Pan Men Gate. This 14th century gate and the surrounding fortifications are all that’s left of the city’s old walls. It’s a marvellous structure that was once used to regulate traffic into the city, both by land and canal.

See the bridges of Luzhi. Luzhi (30 minutes’ drive from Suzhou) has been dubbed the ‘Museum of Bridges.’ A daytrip to Luzhi affords the chance to explore more than 40 canal-spanning bridges and the ancient Baosheng Temple. Old traditions live on here, with many locals still wearing traditional dress.

Stroll through the classical gardens. This is on every tourist’s agenda. Suzhou’s gardens are second-to-none, and most are exceptionally well cared for. Gentle walking paths meander past stoic pavilions and interesting rock formations. Those who designed these gardens mastered the art of harmonising city life with the natural realm.

Visit a water village. The ancient water villages outside of Suzhou have changed little through the centuries. Locals still engage in traditional arts and practices, handling the bulk of their transportation in traditional rowboats. In fact, you might not see a single car on these cobblestone streets. Zhouzhuang, Tongli and Luzhi are three such villages.































