As the traditional home of the Naxi people, who make up around 60 per cent of the population, Lijiang offers visitors a different experience from other typical Han Chinese cities. The atmosphere in the charming Old Town has an ethnic flair rarely seen in a country littered with innocuous concrete settlements. Lijiang’s Old Town is one of the real cultural gems of China, and well worth a visit.

Like all incredible travel destinations, Lijiang isn’t much of a secret anymore. Its 1999 UNESCO World Heritage site status served mainly to put it on the map of both Chinese domestic tourism as well as the international travel scene. The result is a tale of two cities: a lovely timeless Old Town full of beautiful Naxi architecture, gurgling waterways and cobblestone streets, mirrored by the New Town’s typically bland Chinese offerings of restaurants and low rises.

The Naxi part of Lijiang dates to the Ming Dynasty era (1368 to 1644). Wandering the maze-like back streets of the Old Town, visitors can witness a traditional lifestyle that has (mostly) refused to be swept aside by the Cultural Revolution. It certainly deserves its UNESCO status, and is the main reason people visit Lijiang. If you want to avoid sharing the experience with large groups of Chinese tourists, visit during China’s off-seasons.

There are days of leisurely exploration in narrow streets of the Old Town. Visitors should make sure they see a performance of legendary Naxi folk music, enjoy the incredible temple murals in the neighbouring villages, and hike around Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. Lijiang is located in north-western Yunnan province, one of China’s most scenic regions. There are dozens of amazing side trips from the city, blending natural beauty with intriguing Tibetan-flavoured culture.

To properly experience the ancient charms of Lijiang, try and stay in one of the Old Town’s Naxi hotels. From here visitors can easily walk to restaurants, shops and cultural attractions right from their inn. More modern and upscale hotels can be found in the new part of Lijiang, but you won’t get nearly as much ambiance.

The history of Lijiang is tied directly to the Naxi ethnic minority group who has lived in the area for more than 1,400 years. Today their population numbers around 300,000 and more than half of them live in Lijiang. The origins of the Naxi can be traced back to the nomadic Tibetan tribes of Qinghai. The Mongols were likely responsible for driving them south into the Yunnan region.

Despite having a relatively small population, the Naxi have an incredibly rich culture. They follow a unique polytheistic religion known as dongba, which fuses animism with Daoism and Tibetan Lamaism. Naxi shamans are the most respected members of the group because they serve as mediums between the spirit world and the physical world. They are also the only ones who can read and write their unique pictographic language created more than 1,000 years ago.

Another interesting aspect of Naxi culture is that it is matrilineal. The men are the ones responsible for raising children, tending the house and playing traditional forms of music. Women receive the family inheritance, manage money matters, trade in the markets and work the fields. It’s a fascinating reversal of the standard Confucian roles maintained by most Chinese families.

Lijiang has always been an important trading site along what is known as the Tea and Horse Ancient Road. Traditionally, the town prospered from lucrative trade between China and civilisations to the west, but as the old routes moved or vanished the town fell off the map for centuries. Due to its isolated location, Lijiang kept to itself, supported by the thriving population of ethnic groups living in the valleys and mountains such as the Miao, Bai, Yi, Lisu and Tibetans.

Lijiang’s modern history is being shaped as we speak by the forces of tourism. In 1999, the Old Town section—with its resplendent Naxi architecture and culture—was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. This double-edged sword opened the floodgates to tourism in Lijiang, prompting waves of domestic Chinese tour groups to descend on the city. Today, more than three million visitors come to Lijiang every year, making tourism the main source of income for its residents. It is hoped that the Naxi will be able to maintain their traditional lifestyle in the face of pervasive tourism as more and more Chinese can afford to travel.  

Lijiang’s elevated location in a scenic valley enclosed by towering mountains gives it a pleasantly temperate climate year round. An average yearly temperature of 12.6°C ensures that conditions in the city rarely get too hot or too cold. But due to the mountainous nature of Lijiang’s surroundings, the region actually has three distinct zones ranging from subtropical in the south to cold alpine in the northwest. Altitude also affects the temperature and weather of neighbouring places like Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

The city of Lijiang essentially has two seasons: wet and dry. From May to October the valley receives lots of rainfall though temperatures rarely break the 30°C mark. The winter months of November through April constitute the cool dry season. The skies during this period are reliably blue and sunny and the temperatures cool but refreshing. Spring and autumn are nice times to visit, as the weather is very good and there are relatively few tourists. Wildflowers begin to sprout around the end of March.

Since there really isn’t a bad time to visit Lijiang in terms of the weather, visitors should consider Chinese holiday periods when making travel plans. The summer months attract the most tourists, as does the long New Year break in February. Be sure and bring a set of warm clothes, as some of the best outdoor attractions are located at higher elevations. Even in the summer, nights can cool off in Lijiang city.