The modern metropolis of Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan Province in southern China. A city of striking contrasts, it seems that Chengdu is continually renewing its modern façade, pulling skyscrapers from historic districts and rushing wholeheartedly into the 21st century. Even so, there is a remarkable amount of history and old-world culture lingering in these streets, making a holiday to Chengdu a celebration of traditions both old and new.
Bisected by the Funan River,Chengdu is centred on Tian Fu Square and a towering monument to Mao Zedong, founding chairman of the Communist Party. In fact, the old days of the Communist Party seem to invoke a kind of vintage nostalgia here in Chengdu, with numerous tributes, shrines and novelty museums displaying a myriad of worn, communist propaganda. The only catch is that locals now use this iconic imagery to bolster their free-market ambitions.
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As it sits in southern China near the border with Tibet, many travellers use Chengdu as a last refuge and gateway for excursions into the mountains and wind-swept plateau to the west. Travel agencies offer elaborate packages that arrange permits and book passage into Tibet’s remote hinterland. Visitors can also enjoy daytrips to some of Sichuan’s premier and rugged attractions like Mt Emei or Dafo, the largest Buddha sculpture in the world.
The poster child of Chengdu’s tourism industry is the lovable giant panda, bred and pampered at the Giant Panda Breeding Centre. Visitors can stroll through lush gardens and watch the pandas lounging and munching on bamboo shoots. The Chengdu Zoo also has a number of pandas on site.
In the evening, locals and visitors retreat to area restaurants where they gather around hotpots and indulge in Sichuan’s world-famous culinary traditions. Kung pao chicken and marinated, smoked duck are favourites, but the most striking aspect of dining in Chengdu is the fiery effect of local chilli peppers.
Accommodation is varied and plentiful throughout this modern city. Luxury hotels can be found in the city’s upscale sectors, while a number of modest lodges and budget guesthouses are situated throughout the city centre.
Chengdu has a long and relatively unbroken history that can be traced through the rise and fall of several kingdoms. In the 4th century BC, Chengdu was appointed the capital of the ancient Shu Kingdom. The name itself—cheng (become) and du (capital)—was a good fit, as the King of Shu took a virtually unknown village and transformed it into his capital city.
The Qin State invaded and assumed power during in 316 BC during China’s tumultuous Spring and Autumn Period. Characterised by schisms and perpetual conflict, this warring period was overturned as the Qin State grew in power, unified the various states and eventually became the Qin Dynasty. As such, Chengdu’s capitulation to the Qin State made this one of China’s founding cities.
Under the Han Dynasty, Chengdu’s name changed though its political importance remained. The Three Kingdoms period followed the dissolution of the Eastern Han Dynasty, after which Chengdu assumed capital status for Shu-Han, which was one of these three emergent kingdoms during the 2nd century AD.
The Tang Dynasty ruled from the 7th to 10th centuries, during which time two prominent poets, Li Bai and Du Fu, spent considerable time in Chengdu. The latter poet stayed for four years and produced a great deal of work while living in poverty in a grass hut. Du Fu’s cottage (built as a memorial in the 11th century) stands in Chengdu to this day and continues to attract visitors.
Chengdu was a stronghold for the Chinese Nationalist Party as it struggled to maintain the power that was steadily being ceded to the burgeoning Communist Party. Chiang Kai-shek, leader of the KMT (Chinese Nationalist) army fled waves of invading Japanese during WWII and settled here in Sichuan Province. They brought a backbone of civilian laypeople with them, and a number of industries and institutions were founded in Chengdu as a result. Many of these industries continue to bolster Chengdu’s economy today.
Following the resolution of WWII and the subsequent rise of the Communist Party, Chengdu became the last stronghold for Chiang Kai-shek and his Nationalist Party. The People’s Liberation Army invaded in December, 1949 and wrested control from the nationalists. Following this defeat, Chiang Kai-shek and his forces fled to Taiwan set up the hotly contested republic over which the People’s Republic of China still claims sovereignty.
A massive earthquake (measuring 7.9 on the Richter scale) struck Sichuan Province on 12 May 2008. Several thousand were killed in Chengdu, while many times more were injured or displaced. The most substantial damage, however, occurred elsewhere in the province. Chinese officials have pledged to rebuild within three years.
Chengdu’s climate is a mild and subtropical, characterised by overarching balmy weather with a season of heavy rain that peaks during July and August. Visitors planning on hiking in the mountains may wish to avoid this season, as hiking trails can become quite slick. Those who do hike during this time may wish to buy a set of straw-matted outer soles to strap to their shoes for better traction. During this time, the humidity can give the impression that temperatures are hotter than they actually are. In fact, daytime summer temperatures average roughly 26°C.
Technically, the tourist season lasts from April until November although the spring and autumn seasons (omitting the rainier middle months) are the best time to visit. Temperatures are generally mild and pleasant and planned, outdoor activities are less likely to get rained on.
Temperatures drop significantly during winter months, occasionally dipping into the subzero range. The sky is often overcast during the winter and a layer of fog clings to the countryside. Snow seldom falls in the city itself, though the outlying mountains receive regular accumulation at this time. Forty miles away, the Longchi National Forest Park hosts a winter sports festival to encourage tourism during the winter months.
Beware of the reception telling you that they have no rooms at the rate you have reserved. They tried this with us and told us that a booking did not constitute a guarantee - even though we had paid ...
