With its gory past at the hands of the Khmer Rouge, long years of colonial rule and abundant, elegant Buddhist temples, Phnom Penh ranks is one of the most fascinating cities in Southeast Asia. Given the humidity and the fixation on Khmer Rouge relics, it won’t be everyone’s ideal destination but tourists are coming to Phnom Penh in increasing numbers.

Cambodia-Vietnam Friendship Monument
Fans of ultra-Communist style edifices and those generally interested in the history surrounding the Khmer Rouge should make this a priority. The statue is a celebration of the union of Cambodian and Vietnamese troops following the ousting of the Khmer Rouge at the beginning of 1979. Be warned that it has been the focal point of anger in the past and has been damaged by several bomb attacks.

Independence Monument
The famous architect Vann Molyvann to come up with this lotus shaped structure which looks a lot like the domes seen at Angkor Wat. Located at the junction between Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards, this spot gets very busy on patriotic holidays, particularly Independence Day in November.

Killing Fields
A little way out of the city itself, simply ask a tuk-tuk for the Killing Fields – the driver will almost certainly understand that you want to make to make the 17kms journey south of Phnom Penh to close by Cheoung Ek. There isn’t a great deal to see here and its not as striking as S-21 but still the monument filled with human skeletons and the large surrounding, shallow graves do bring home the scale of the Khmer Rouge tragedy.

Phsar Thom Thmei (Central Market)
A tourist attraction in its own right, the central market built during the French colonial era in 1937 is a strange yet impressive art deco structure that’s got a hint of Khmer lotus about it. In other words, it’s an artistic collaboration between French and Cambodian styles. Even if you don’t plan to buy anything, you’ll want to get over here to take a look.

Royal Palace
Built with the help of the French, this impressive royal compound also features two photogenic Buddhist pagodas – the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Silver Pagoda – along with a wealth of glittering gold on display. Remember to cover up bare legs and shoulders as visitors are expected to dress respectfully.

Stung Meanchey Garbage Dump
If you ever wanted to remind your children how lucky they are, this is the place to bring them. It’s not an attraction as such but more a disturbing, filthy insight into how many of the children are forced to live in Phnom Penh. For young Western children, this might be a chance to interact with Cambodian children and serve as a real eye-opener at the same time. Donations can also be made to the humanitarian organisation Pour Sourire D’un Enfant at their onsite office.

Tuol Sleng S-21, Genocide Museum
Quite frankly, this is one of the most emotionally-charged buildings you find anywhere in Asia. Originally a school, the Khmer Rouge turned this into a centre of mindless torture where false confessions were garnered in their thousands and dozens of people died every day. The photos of the inmates, the descriptions of what happened and the photos of what the Vietnamese found here in 1979 are astonishing. It’s a very sad place but a must-see that hammers home the horror that was the Khmer Rouge.
Phone: 855 23 300 698. Website: www.tuolsleng.com

Wat Phnom
Wat Phnom is nearly 700 years old and is set in a wonderful little garden that makes a perfect spot after a heavy lunch on Sisowath Quay. This peaceful area houses a number of stupas, the largest being home to the remains of King Ponhea Yat who is considered the founder of Phnom Penh as a fully-fledged city.

Cook yourself a Khmer-style curry. Join one of the growing numbers of Khmer cooking classes in the city conducted in English or French. The Frizz restaurant on Sisowath Quay, about half way down, operates some of the most popular courses.

Enjoy the best French food this side of Paris. With so many great French restaurants offering amazing value for money, Phnom Penh is a delight where you will never have to eat at the same French restaurant twice. There is plenty of good French wine too.

Enter Cambodia’s very own Heart of Darkness. As if Phnom Penh wasn’t spooky enough, this bar/club in the downtown area of the city is named after the famous Joseph Conrad novel and retains a reputation for its lively, sometimes rough, atmosphere. Undoubtedly, this remains the most infamous nightclub in Cambodia so if you fancy a drink then make sure to take a look.

Handle an AK-47 assault rifle. If you’ve ever wondered what its like to fire off a few live rounds from an assault rifle, then now is your chance because Phnom Penh’s Thunder Ranch, as it is known, offers tourists the chance to use a number of weapons for a moderate fee in US dollars. Grenades and rocket launchers are also readily available too.

Shop inside an art deco masterpiece. Few markets anywhere in the world look as stylish as the colonial era Central Market in downtown Phnom Penh. Even if it is looking a bit rundown these days, shopping never gets quite as intriguing as this back in the West.

Watch a boat race on the Tonlé Sap River. When the Mekong sends the Tonlé Sap River flowing in the opposite direction near the end of the rainy season in November, Phnom Penh locals celebrate for 3 days straight with multi-coloured boat races on the river right in the centre of the city.

Witness a traditional Khmer kickboxing match. Having nearly been killed off as a sport in Cambodia during the Khmer Rouge era, Khmer traditional boxing, or Pradal Serey, is back in a big way. The biggest fights are held at the Olympic Stadium but bouts are held in other different venues too so ask around for the latest match-ups.