If you had to stick a pin into the centre of a map of Sri Lanka, chances are you would hit Kandy. Known as the country's hill capital, it is located in a pretty valley surrounded by low hills and has become a major tourist attraction in a country dominated by beach resorts. We were heading for Kandy to witness one of the greatest pageants on earth, the Esala Perahera (or Kandy Perahera).

This unique festival honours Lord Buddha's sacred tooth relic - enshrined in the city's main temple - and features a procession of more than 100 elephants followed by colourful performers. I had been reading about the Perahera as our aircraft came in to land at Colombo Airport. My sister had been reading a novel, but had dropped her book to listen to my description of the event and its traditions. Using my newly acquired knowledge, I explained to her that the biggest elephant in the procession, known as the Maligawa Tusker, is entrusted with carrying a replica of the tooth relic.

The sacred tooth itself is kept safely within the confines of seven caskets in the inner sanctum of the Dalada Maligawa temple in the centre of Kandy. The tooth relic made its way to Sri Lanka from India. Following Lord Buddha's cremation, his remains were divided and entrusted to local rulers in Northern India. After eight centuries in India, the sacred tooth relic was taken to Sri Lanka, hidden within the elaborate hairdo of the daughter of an Indian King in order to escape the attention of passers-by.

The other passengers were already leaving the aircraft when I finally closed the book. As we had both visited Colombo before, we had decided to hire a car and driver and head for Kandy. Although the distance is only about 110 kilometres, our leisurely trip took four hours. After leaving the capital city, we headed into the interior of the island on a busy highway, passing paddy fields, palm groves and coconut plantations.

Later, we accepted our driver's suggestion that we stop at the Pinnewela elephant orphanage. Here about seventy elephants are taken care of. They are mostly young animals that have been brought to the orphanage after being found sick or abandoned by their herd. Luckily, we were just in time to watch the jumbos have their daily bath in the river. You cannot imagine the splashing and hooting as the elephants spray each other with water!

Two hours later, we arrived in Kandy. Although accommodation is a premium during the Perahera, we had managed to get a room for three nights at the Suisse Hotel. While it does not match the more luxurious resorts outside Kandy like the Mahaweli Reach Hotel or the Earls Regency, the Hotel Suisse has an old-world charm that we loved. Meals are served in the old ballroom and there's a billiard room to keep you occupied after dinner. Set in its three-acre garden is a modern swimming pool and you can walk to most of the town's attractions.

As it was already evening, we watched the last of that night's procession from a distance against a backdrop of the lit temple. The biggest event would be tomorrow, the final night of this Buddhist festival to invoke the blessings of the gods for rain, fertility and good health. We went to bed early and rose early to do some sightseeing in the area.

My sister insisted that we visit Peradenya Gardens, which lies about 10 minutes outside the town. We marvelled at the manicured plants and lingered at the spice garden, where we were introduced to the leaves used for traditional Ayurvedic medicine. Another highlight was Orchid House, which holds more than 300 varieties of this enchanting plant.

After a lunch at a small restaurant in town, we headed for the Dalada Museum, which houses the gifts that have been presented in honour of the tooth relic over the years. We also checked out the artifacts used in the daily ritual ceremonies of the tooth relic, including some amazing gold and silver jewellery studded with precious gems. Among the other important items on view was a painted replica of Buddha's footprint and carved ivory tusks donated by Burma.

As the sun set we lined up along the route, awaiting the start of the procession. The temple is lit up bathed in a mist of pink and gold. Finally, it is time to begin. The procession is led by muscular, barefooted men in white sarongs, who crack long whips. Behind them are the bearers of the region's flags. Then comes the first elephant, which carries the dignitary holding the Temple's tenant and property records. The pounding of a frenetic beat signals the arrival of the drummers, dressed in white with red cummerbunds.

Slowly the rest of the procession passes. Gaily decorated dancers with necklaces, bracelets and anklets move to the rhythm of the drums and horn-blowers. Elaborately adorned elephants, in rows of three, sway to the beat. Flanking the procession are the men with fire. They carry large fire in containers on large wooden poles, as the flames soar into the air. Now and then, they lower the poles to refuel the fire with coconut shells.

Then comes the star of the show. Attended by many officials and flanked by two elephants, the sacred Maligawa Tusker appears. A colourful canopy crowns the golden domed relic casket on his back. He is showered with jasmine as the royal white cloth is spread before him. As he moves, his feet do not touch the naked ground. Then there are more elephants, more dancers, more drummers and even more musicians. Sometimes the procession halts. The drummers form a circle, the horn-blowers play to the crowd and the dancers move faster. This is a spectacle to beat all spectacles.

We slept in late the next day, missing the ceremony at the Ganesh Kovil, the shrine of the elephant headed god. A dance is performed in front of the main elephant's elaborate outfit to offset any wrongdoing which may have occurred during the festivities.

As we drove out of Kandy, heading back to the Colombo and our flight home, we passed some of the elephants returning to their villages. Their big moment had come and gone, but they would be back. This year's event starts on August 10 and culminates in the spectacular finale on August 20. Try to get there - you will never forget it.