Buenos Aires is an amazing blend of architecture, politics, café lifestyle and the people who hold it all together. Of all the capitals in Latin American, many would argue that it is by far the most sophisticated, elegant and determined. The city is full of wonderful buildings, lively cafés and dance clubs, and an infectious languid personality which will make you wish you had more time to linger.

Botanical Gardens
These delightful gardens encompass several acres in the heart of the city. The seemingly endless tree-lined walkways offer the perfect place to stroll around and relax. Plants from all over the world, including many from Latin America, fill the grounds. The central greenhouse often puts on a rotating art show and if you’re up for a picnic, there’s no better place in Buenos Aires. You’ll see many Porteños enjoying the greenery and each other’s company.

Café Tortoni
Any trip to Buenos Aires must include at least one visit to this landmark café. Since its opening in 1858, this café has been the intellectual and artistic centre of the city, serving drinks to the likes of Jorge Luis Borges and Julio de Caro. The interior is superbly restored to its original condition and the photos on the walls give a fascinating look at the city’s history. Locals and tourists sit side by side, neither overwhelming the other. It’s truly one of the best vantage points for a glimpse into the essential café life of Porteños.

Casa Rosada and the Presidential Museum
The Casa Rosada (Rose House) is the most photographed building in Buenos Aires and the main presence in the Plaza de Mayo. It was from a balcony on this building that Evita famously addressed the adoring crowds of Argentine workers. Today, the Argentine president works here, though he does not live here. Every hour, on the hour, you can watch the Changing of the Guards in front of the palace. To the side of the palace is the Presidential Museum, which is full of information about the history of the building and those who ruled from it. There are even periodic tours of the Casa Rosada itself, for which tickets can be reserved at the museum’s front desk.

Centro Cultural Recoleta
This important arts centre, situated across from the cemetery, holds both permanent and touring art exhibitions as well as musical and theatrical performances. Originally designed as a Franciscan convent in the 18th century, the centre offers a staggering array of things to do in an everchanging calendar. The children’s interactive science museum is on the first floor. One of the city’s best art and culture bookstores is in the lobby and the other rooms are constantly staging one interesting event after another.

Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA)
This airy and luminescent museum houses one of the most impressive collections of Latin American art in the world. Permanent and temporary exhibitions give light to the wonderful and inspirational art of Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, Antonio Berni and many others. The art here offers an insight into some of the cultural and social issues which have faced Argentina. Latin films are also shown here from Tuesday through Sunday at 14:00 and 22:00. The museum is open Wednesday through Monday from noon to 20:00.

Museo Evita
This recently opened museum treats the life of Eva Peron fairly, presenting both the good and bad aspects of it. While historically accurate, the exhibits all exude a personal warmth that is often missing from most museums. Her life is divided into several parts, from her childhood and early years as an actress to her ascension to first lady and finally her death. The many personal artefacts help bring this icon of Argentine socio-politics to life and will help you understand why Evita is such an important and controversial figure in the Argentine psyche.

Plaza de Mayo
As the historic and political heart of the city, this plaza is one of the hubs of life in Buenos Aires. Since its inception in 1580, the plaza has played a part in the governance of the city, and the buildings which line its square read like a timeline of Argentine architecture. The centre of the plaza has fountains, benches and trees which attract many locals for lunchtime socialising. Any protest that happens in Argentina begins here, in the political heart of the city. Every Thursday at 15:30, the Mothers of the Disappeared set up their information booths, as they’ve done for the last 30 years, demanding answers.

Recoleta Cemetery
Created in 1822 and larger than four city blocks, this is the final resting place for many of the wealthiest and most important figures in Argentine history. More than 6,400 mausoleums create an architectural collage that offers hours of fascinating wandering. The most popular tomb is that of Eva ‘Evita’ Peron, which is continually adorned by her devoted fans. Free English language tours are given every Tuesday and Thursday at 11:00, weather permitting.

Teatro Colon (Colon Theatre)
During the Golden Age of the city around the turn of the 20th century, this luxurious opera house was built to rival those of Paris, London and New York. This majestic theatre was opened in 1908 and has seats for 3,000 guests. The theatre has world renowned acoustics and hosts opera and symphony performances from around the world as well as its own orchestra and ballet company. Guided tours of this lovely building take place every hour.

The Subway’s A-Line
The A-Line was the first subway line to open in the city in 1913, making it the oldest in South America and the 13th oldest subway in the world. A ride on the A-Line is a fascinating glimpse back in time as this line still uses its original wooden trains, which are old and rickety. This line runs from the Plaza de Mayo to the Primera Junta, offering a short but amazing journey. Almost everything is original, from the wooden windows to the doors, which do not always open and close automatically. Even the stations along this section retain their 100-year-old charm. Well worn wooden turnstiles remain in use and the walls are painted with mock ads from the era.

Check out a display of real tango dancers. The tango is tied to Buenos Aires like an umbilical cord and if you have any interest in dance then you must witness this genre. The tango show at El Querandi offers the most authentic show, as it traces the tango’s roots from brothel slums to its current sexy form. Esquina Carlos Gardel puts on the grandest experience in the neighbourhood where the master himself once lived and danced. A classical symphony accompanies this show.

Explore the Palermo Park system along avenida Libertador, one the most beautiful parks in the world. You can easily spend a day or more wandering this tree and monument-filled part of the city. Within the park system are numerous small parks as well as many of the city’s best museums. In the spring, the weather is perfect and the jacaranda trees explode in purple, making this the best time for strolling.

Head to the bohemian San Telmo district, named after the patron saint of seafarers. Its cobblestone streets are lined with early 19th century colonial buildings. An ambitious urban renewal programme has transformed these quaint streets into a new life full of art galleries, trendy cafés and antiques shops. The neighbourhood is a true representation of the city’s cultural and historical traditions and should not be missed.

Make a trip to the Estadio Boca Juniors. Here you will get another essential glimpse into Argentine life on a Sunday afternoon, when the city’s most famous football club plays a home match. The atmosphere in the stadium is equaled only, perhaps, by the Brazilians and makes for a special experience. If you have any interest in football, try to catch a Boca Juniors game.

Take a boat tour and see the city from a different perspective. Although Buenos Aires has an extensive riverfront area, the city seems determined to ignore it. This seems a shame, as rivers create a special quality in an urban environment. However, two boat tour companies offer a way to view the city from a unique vantage point. Navegando Buenos Aires run a 1-hour, 30-minute cruise twice a day from Puerto Madero to La Boca. Buenos Aires Boats has four trips a day from La Boca to the Rio de la Plata. The prices for both cruises are very reasonable.

Touring the city on foot is a fantastic was to see Buenos Aires. No matter where you begin, the beautiful buildings and wide, leafy streets will simply pull you along. If you get lost, the friendly Porteños will give you a hand. City Government Kiosks are scattered around the city and they have maps which you can use to get around, or pick up the Golden Map, which is available in most hotels and shows some self-guided walks in various neighbourhoods.